[kimbo22]

exactly what the title says. i would love to fit some beefy 35s under my durango but im tryna figure out how to do so. being a 19 year old kid i dont have the means or know how to do a huge project at the moment such as a solid axle swap and ive heard too many bad things about the tuff country lift to make me not want to spend so much money on it. any input is appreciated thanks a lot

 

[zclif2601]

exactly what the title says. i would love to fit some beefy 35s under my durango but im tryna figure out how to do so. being a 19 year old kid i dont have the means or know how to do a huge project at the moment such as a solid axle swap and ive heard too many bad things about the tuff country lift to make me not want to spend so much money on it. any input is appreciated thanks a lot

Well the title sounds Chinese but I'll go out on a limb and assume you meant trying to* Ok for 35s, crank the torsion bars all the way up front, flip the axle or shackes in the back and top it off with a 3" body lift. cut where needed for the tires to turn. If you plan to offroad be prepared to to have ball joints stocked up.
:drive:

 

[RC Kota]

Stock wheels? I take it you have a 4x4 correct? Why do you want 35s?

 

[Xxaler]

Get 32x11.50s, give you a bit of lift, give you some options for aggressive tires, and wont rub the fender/frame. 35's will rub fenders, frame, and will make your truck a dog with stock 3.55 gears.

 

[kimbo22]

yes that is what i meant trying to* haha sorry im young. is i know about those lifts but is there no other way to lift the front up higher then just cranking the torsion bar? also ive been wondering and im not completely sure but can you crank the torsion bar so you raise it about 2 inches and then also add a torsion key or can you not do that? and yes i have stock wheels at the moment but i plan on getting some crager softs or procomps when i get new tires but why did you ask? and yes it is a 4x4 just because im younger dosent mean im THAT ignorant about cars haha. also touching on base with the gearing and such i did plan on going to lower gears in the future when the time came and it is also not a stock truck durango i threw in a k&n cold air intake a fastman tb and some gibson shorty headers and am going to do the exhaust sooner than later so the truck being dogged down isnt my bigest concern. and again i appreciate all of you that have responded to my post all of it helps!

 

[kimbo22]

sorry i forgot to respond about the tire size. the durango is my baby ive had it for about a year and its been in my family for years but when we only got offered $750 on a trade in and we sold my little honda for a grand i got lucky and got the durango and i love it and its my project im rebuilding up i threw a 3000 dollar stereo system in it put 5% tint on the windows started upgrading the engine and i want to lift it and take it off roading to on the trails and mudding but no rocks or anything and i love the look of a big aggressive tire. and im not so worried about gas mpg becasue im going into the navy sometime before september so im not going to be driving very much and im buying some 32.5 in bfg ats from a buddy for about 100 bucks so i can dd with those

 

[KotaKid287]

35s + stock gearing = replacing the transmission VERY soon. Not to mention get lifetime warrantied wheel bearings/hub assemblies, you're gonna be changing them about once a month if not more often (been there, done that). Upper ball joints will last about 3-6 months, lowers 6mo-1yr. You're easiest option of fitting them will be with the 5.5" TC lift, if you don't want that, crank the torsion bars up as far as your spine and the droop stops will allow, do whatever will get the rear level with the front at that point (probably shackles and a good add-a-leaf), do a body lift, and then get the sawzall out and start trimming.

 

[kimbo22]

I've been planning on changing the gearing I will look more into that. I've read a lot of negative things about the tuff country lift saying it was a waste of money it makes me iffy on wanting to spend that much money on the thing. So torsion bar keys they allow you to crank the torsion bar up higher? About how much higher do they allow you to crank them?

 

[KotaKid287]

Torsion bar keys will only help you if your torsion bars are worn out, you should be able to max out the torsion bars with the stock keys. The upper control arms will be sitting on the droop stops at about 2 1/2" over stock, so you won't be going any higher then that no matter what you do.

 

[RC Kota]

I'd also look at wheels with a different offset

 

[KotaKid287]

Wheels with less backspacing will help keep the tires from rubbing on the frame, but they will make the tires rub the fenders and bumper even worse lol. Six in one hand half dozen in the other.

 

[kimbo22]

Well I guess smaller tires it is. Do 34s create the same pproblems

 

[KotaKid287]

The diameter doesn't cause nearly as much of an issue as the width does, a 35x10.50 will fit better then a 34x12.50. That said the only 34" tires I'm aware of are Swamper LTBs which are 34x10.50s, they'll basically take the same work to fit as a 33x12.50 would.

 

[kimbo22]

so really with any tire size im going to have to trim if its a 12.50? as far as all the wear on the suspension parts im planning on running two sets of tires an all terrain tire for daily driving thats smaller probably a 31 or 32 inch tire i can get some bfg 32.5 for 100 from a buddy pretty soon and then have a set of whatever size i end up with 33 to 35 inch mud terrain tire just for off road use. doing this would limit the stress on the parts that running 35s cause wouldnt it? or does it all go wrong when you attempt to go off roading with those big of tires and what set up would you reccomend best for going off roading i dont want to do any rock climbing or anything just trails and mudding

 

[kohake85]

i would stick with 33's for you offroading, i have them on my 99 dakota and they behave pretty good. I do have a 2 inch block on the rear axles and the front cranked to where they just touch the bump stops for the A-arms. i size tested the 34's and will def take quite a bit of trimming to make them work without a 3 inch body lift. honestly not worth it for just 1 inch of tire size. Just do the 33 10.50's i got the pro comps with 4.75 backspacing wich puts the wheel's 3/4's of an inch out and it works out pretty good, just minor trimming was required in wheel wells and helped out with the frame rub. Short of going sas bout all your going to be able to get.

 

[Darkpendragon]

35s + stock gearing = replacing the transmission VERY soon. Not to mention get lifetime warrantied wheel bearings/hub assemblies, you're gonna be changing them about once a month if not more often (been there, done that). Upper ball joints will last about 3-6 months, lowers 6mo-1yr. You're easiest option of fitting them will be with the 5.5" TC lift, if you don't want that, crank the torsion bars up as far as your spine and the droop stops will allow, do whatever will get the rear level with the front at that point (probably shackles and a good add-a-leaf), do a body lift, and then get the sawzall out and start trimming.

Now you make me not want to get my Durango lifted.