Dakota Durango Forum banner
21 - 37 of 37 Posts

· Diesel Mechanic
Joined
·
844 Posts
id get raped by the dealer before i ever pulled a tranny without the truck being on a lift.

only thing i can recommend is leave the t-case attached for the removal. will save time from having to reach those ahrd to reach t-case bolts on top. make sure before pulling everything to verify ALL connectors are disconnected. BE CAREFUL on the transmission module harness DO NOT BREAK THE EARS!

Air is your freind, use it if you have it.
 

· Diesel Mechanic
Joined
·
844 Posts
PS.... this might help you... you can thank me later.... shh.

"The overdrive unit can be removed and serviced separately. It is not necessary to remove the entire transmission assembly to perform overdrive unit repairs.

CAUTION: The transmission and torque converter must be removed as an assembly to avoid component damage. The converter drive plate, pump bushing, or oil seal can be damaged if the converter is left attached to the driveplate during removal.

REMOVAL
Disconnect battery negative cable.
Hoist and support vehicle.
Remove skid plate, if equipped.
Remove skid plate support crossmember, if equipped.
Disconnect and lower or remove necessary exhaust components.
Remove starter motor.
Support engine with suitable support stand and wood block.
Remove bolts attaching engine-to-transmission brackets to transmission.
Remove bolt and nut attaching each engine-to-transmission bracket to the motor mounts.
Remove bolts holding the engine-to-transmission brackets to the front axle, if equipped.
Loosen bolts attaching engine-to-transmission brackets to each side of the engine block.
Raise engine slightly.
Remove torque converter access cover.
Tighten bolts attaching engine-to-transmission brackets to each side of the engine block.
Lower engine.
Disconnect fluid cooler lines at transmission.
If transmission is being removed for overhaul, remove transmission oil pan, drain fluid and reinstall pan.
Remove fill tube bracket bolts and pull tube out of transmission. Retain fill tube seal. On 4 x 4 models, it will also be necessary to remove bolt attaching transfer case vent tube to converter housing Fill Tube Attachment
Rotate crankshaft in clockwise direction until converter bolts are accessible. Then remove bolts one at a time. Rotate crankshaft with socket wrench on dampener bolt.
Mark propeller shaft and axle companion flanges for assembly alignment. Then disconnect and remove propeller shaft.
Disconnect wires from park/neutral position switch and transmission solenoid.
Disconnect throttle valve cable from transmission bracket and throttle valve lever.
On 4 x 4 models, disconnect shift rod from transfer case shift lever. Or remove shift lever from transfer case and tie rod and lever to chassis component with wire.
Raise transmission slightly with service jack to relieve load on crossmember and supports.
Remove bolts securing rear support and cushion to transmission and crossmember. Raise transmission slightly, slide exhaust hanger arm from bracket Rear Support Cushion and remove rear support.
Remove bolts attaching crossmember to frame and remove crossmember.
On 4 x 4 models, disconnect vent hose from transfer case. Then remove transfer case with transmission jack or aid of helper.
Remove all converter housing bolts.
Carefully work transmission and torque converter assembly rearward off engine block dowels.
Lower transmission and remove assembly from under the vehicle."
 

· Staying auto ;)
Joined
·
657 Posts
YOU ARE MY HERO!! I know I have the know how to do this, its jsut alot easier with a list that tells you every step THANK YOU SO MUCH!!
Just set up all my tools, trucks in, batterys disconnected and ive got 3 drop lights set up. Here goes nothing! It has to be out between now and noon tomorrow!
Wish I had air tools my dads compressor is here in thsi garage but never wired up 220 because he never expected to stay here this long.
As far as letting a dealer rape me thats 100% out of the question. Im doing a straight up trade with the trans so its gotta sit for a week without the trans, AND im a broke college student(thank you wyotech......)
Alright im off!! Im gonna keep a count of the time i spend. Its 223 and im gonna start at 230 sharp. Got some beers, soda, and nothing but time!
 

· Staying auto ;)
Joined
·
657 Posts
420
y pipe and cat are out, had to cut the exhaust in two spots to get it out.... Took out the exhaust heat sheilds too. Crossmember is out, and going back in with 4 loose bolts so I can get the atv jack under the trans.
update later!
 

· Staying auto ;)
Joined
·
657 Posts
im about to give up for the night..
Got one starter bolt out, 3 of the 4 bolts off the front axle bracket. I think the guy who rebuilt the trans never put those engine to transmission supports back in all there is are these little plates that hook over the bell, got one bolt outta one of them. Got the front driveshaft out.
Do I have to remove my damn oil filter to take out bellhosuing bolts?? I dont have money to do a oil change right now..... I need more tips guys this thing is kicking my ass...
 

· Diesel Mechanic
Joined
·
844 Posts
shouldnt need to remove the oil filter i never have in the past.you should be able to zip most of the bellhousing bolts out from underneath... well rachet. lol umm the top to its hard to say been a while, from what others have said its easier from top and that could be true. give it a looksy.

good job so far, i woulda had it towed to a garage by now and payed them =P
 

· Staying auto ;)
Joined
·
657 Posts
Putting the front on stands right now, and trying again in the day light to get those stupid brackets off from behind the heads. Got one bell bolt thats right behind the oil filter and I could remove if i loosened it last as I slid the trans out. Hoping with his help and starting fresh i can do this!!
 

· Staying auto ;)
Joined
·
657 Posts
im just gonan do a oil change but im gonna put it back on for now to keep any dirt out of there.
Starters off, and I got 2 bell housing bolts out.
Now whats the story with these stupid metal brackets behind the heads?? do they both have 2 bolts into the block? I cant find bolts on the drivers side one theres too much crap for me to get my little arms in there!! Im dreading putting the stupid thing back in...
are there any other suprises?? Do I have to remove the stupid transmission to axle bracket?? That bracket and the brackets behind the heads are all thats there I have nothing bolted to my motor mount, i guess the last guy that did this 5k miles ago kept it out. (thank GOD this was done not long ago, all the bolts are fairly easy to remove!)
Next im trying to get the dip stick out, and the inspection plate.
thanks guys
 

· Registered
Joined
·
1,504 Posts
Remember that you have well over 450 lbs to deal with, it was awkward without the T-case and two guys when I pulled mine. Just be careful if you try to get it out alone.
 

· Staying auto ;)
Joined
·
657 Posts
well i did it. Got it on to the ground myself with a atv jack and rachet strap. Took me and my dad to spin it and get the t case down and pick it up and pull it from underneath. all and all not too too bad once i started looking for everything before trying to remove it.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
You will hurt yourself trying to get a 46RE out alone without a tranny jack. The damn things weigh 250+ lbs without the T-case. It isn't that big of a job it is just a PITA. The top two bellhousing bolts are also hard to get at without a loooong extension or by using a flex head ratchet from the top.
Hi im trying to pull out my 5.7 2007 engine out but have no clue how to remove the top left bolt on the bell housing. Some help would be very appreciated thanks
 
21 - 37 of 37 Posts
Top