www.1stchryslerparts.com is a decent site for buying dealer only parts. The parts catalog isn't easy to use though.
Transfer Case Linkage bushings?
2000 dakota, transfer case linkage failed today. Turns out the rubber bushings that holds the linkage in place are dry rotted and crumbling.
Does anyone have the P/N for these critters? Also, with all of the delaers that have shut down around here, could anyone suggest an online option for buying these things?
Seems this is a common problem, after a brief web search, this has happened to others (found on other dodge forums) but no one seemed to have the P/N. Apparently the bushings aren't that obvious in the dodge parts books.
Does anyone have the P/N for these critters? Also, with all of the delaers that have shut down around here, could anyone suggest an online option for buying these things?
Seems this is a common problem, after a brief web search, this has happened to others (found on other dodge forums) but no one seemed to have the P/N. Apparently the bushings aren't that obvious in the dodge parts books.
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Thanks for the suggestion, I'll check them out.
I did get lucky today though. I went to the Dodge website to use their dealer locator function, so I could track down a dealer to find the part. There was still one listed that is relatively close to my work. I called them, and got the P/N, but they didn't have any in stock. However they could check the local inventories of other dealers, and they told me that there was one that had them.
I called to verify the dealership to confirm, But it wasn't the one with the parts. It was their sister dealer that had the parts in stock but it wasn't coming up on the Dodge locator. They gave me the direct phone number to the parts counter, I called them to confirm, and they pulled the parts and put them on their "will call" shelf.
The best news is the dealer that had them was also the closest one to go by on my way home.
Those stinking little bushings wer about $28 (with tax) for two of them.
These are dependent on which transfer case is in the truck, there are two,
(6 cyl vs 8 cyl?)
They can determine which is the right one by using your VIN (last 8 digits).
I did get lucky today though. I went to the Dodge website to use their dealer locator function, so I could track down a dealer to find the part. There was still one listed that is relatively close to my work. I called them, and got the P/N, but they didn't have any in stock. However they could check the local inventories of other dealers, and they told me that there was one that had them.
I called to verify the dealership to confirm, But it wasn't the one with the parts. It was their sister dealer that had the parts in stock but it wasn't coming up on the Dodge locator. They gave me the direct phone number to the parts counter, I called them to confirm, and they pulled the parts and put them on their "will call" shelf.
The best news is the dealer that had them was also the closest one to go by on my way home.
Those stinking little bushings wer about $28 (with tax) for two of them.
These are dependent on which transfer case is in the truck, there are two,
(6 cyl vs 8 cyl?)
They can determine which is the right one by using your VIN (last 8 digits).
Should be only different for the part time or full time 4wd cases.
That site I linked to, you can search by part number if you have it. Real easy that way. Usually 10% cheaper than the dealer, but you pay shipping.
That site I linked to, you can search by part number if you have it. Real easy that way. Usually 10% cheaper than the dealer, but you pay shipping.
I had no idea what the differnce between them are. I couldn't find anything that explained the difference between them in the FSM. I didn't even know they had a full time case in '00. I will have to explore frther, not that it makes any difference to me though..Should be only different for the part time or full time 4wd cases.
I was just happy about getting them. I didn't care that much about the price. I expect dealer/OEM pricing to suck, so I wasn't surprised. For example, I just did an A/C evaproator replacement on the truck a couple of weeks ago. I bought the evaporator online for $59, (www.ackits.com) Dealer price was $290.That site I linked to, you can search by part number if you have it. Real easy that way. Usually 10% cheaper than the dealer, but you pay shipping.
Wasn't having much success with finding those bushings through an online supplier, and wasn't sure what dealers were still around either. The 3 local dealers closest to me all were shut down. IIRC one of them had been around since probably the late '40's (early postwar)
I wonder what happened to all those dealer parts inventories.
I installed the new grommets yesterday, and it took awhile to do so. I'd say it took me around 3 hours to get it done, but if I had to do it again, I could probably do so in about 45 minutes or less. So for those who would like to benefit by my errors, follow these instructions to get the job done right and quick. I struggled to try and install these things from under the truck. Trust me, with the limited area in which to work , it can't be done this way. The best way is to remove the shifter, and the transfer case gear selector arm and install the grommets on the bench. Even this is hard to do. These buggers are very stiff rubber.
1. Jack up the truck and put on stands.
2. From under the truck take a moment to observe how it goes together. the grommets are not symetrical, and the must go in to the holes from the outside-in direction, with the small hole of the grommet facing towards the transfer case
3. Now remove the linkage, if it isn't already off. Then remove the transfer case gear selector arm, it's a single nut and washer, a racheting wrench works well. You will probably have to pry off the arm.
4.Make usre you mark the arm somehow so it goes back on the exact same way it came off. Again it is not symetrical, and you do not want to install it backwards, or even put the grommet in wrong.
5. Remove the shifter form inside of the truck. First remove the shifter knob. Pry off the center cap of the knob, and use a 15mm socket to remove the nut, then the knob screws off.
6. Next, remove the console, or shifter surround. On mine you pop out the small tray at the back, and remove the two screws, then the front pops out as it is held in with clips. It is best to also unhook the switch wire connector so you can get it out of the way.
7. Remove the three accessible torx bolts that hold in the shifter. Torx socket is best for the front one, torx driver will work for all of the rest.
There ore two more torx screws on the left side under the carpet. You have to get to these by going under the carpet. To get under the carpet, remove the plastic kick panel, and door sill plate and pull the carpet out from under the pedals. This is a pain, but it sure beats cutting holes in your carpet. The molded carpet is tough to hold up, so a block of wood, or a stick, or a screwdriver, or a ratchet, helps to hold it out of the way to get at the screws. Once all of the screws are out, pop out the shifter.
8. Install the grommets. Like I said, these things are pretty stiff, so they aren't going to just push in, I got them started by using a vise, then the blade of a screwdriver to work them in. Use some silicone grease as well.
9. Re-install the shifter, then go under the truck and re-install the gear selector arm. Put some silicone grease on the linkage pins and it will just push right in to place. The reset is pretty self explanitory.
Follow these basic directions, and you can't go worng. The FSM doesn't explain how to do this, so I had to learn by trial and error. I tried several techniques to install these things from underneath, to no avail. I even considered dropping the front axle shaft to give me more room to work, but I'd also risk getting transfer case fluid dripping on me, and possible damage to the seal, and it still wouldnt' be easy to install them anyway.
1. Jack up the truck and put on stands.
2. From under the truck take a moment to observe how it goes together. the grommets are not symetrical, and the must go in to the holes from the outside-in direction, with the small hole of the grommet facing towards the transfer case
3. Now remove the linkage, if it isn't already off. Then remove the transfer case gear selector arm, it's a single nut and washer, a racheting wrench works well. You will probably have to pry off the arm.
4.Make usre you mark the arm somehow so it goes back on the exact same way it came off. Again it is not symetrical, and you do not want to install it backwards, or even put the grommet in wrong.
5. Remove the shifter form inside of the truck. First remove the shifter knob. Pry off the center cap of the knob, and use a 15mm socket to remove the nut, then the knob screws off.
6. Next, remove the console, or shifter surround. On mine you pop out the small tray at the back, and remove the two screws, then the front pops out as it is held in with clips. It is best to also unhook the switch wire connector so you can get it out of the way.
7. Remove the three accessible torx bolts that hold in the shifter. Torx socket is best for the front one, torx driver will work for all of the rest.
There ore two more torx screws on the left side under the carpet. You have to get to these by going under the carpet. To get under the carpet, remove the plastic kick panel, and door sill plate and pull the carpet out from under the pedals. This is a pain, but it sure beats cutting holes in your carpet. The molded carpet is tough to hold up, so a block of wood, or a stick, or a screwdriver, or a ratchet, helps to hold it out of the way to get at the screws. Once all of the screws are out, pop out the shifter.
8. Install the grommets. Like I said, these things are pretty stiff, so they aren't going to just push in, I got them started by using a vise, then the blade of a screwdriver to work them in. Use some silicone grease as well.
9. Re-install the shifter, then go under the truck and re-install the gear selector arm. Put some silicone grease on the linkage pins and it will just push right in to place. The reset is pretty self explanitory.
Follow these basic directions, and you can't go worng. The FSM doesn't explain how to do this, so I had to learn by trial and error. I tried several techniques to install these things from underneath, to no avail. I even considered dropping the front axle shaft to give me more room to work, but I'd also risk getting transfer case fluid dripping on me, and possible damage to the seal, and it still wouldnt' be easy to install them anyway.
I have to replace the grommets on the transfer case linkage on my durango. just curious as to why remove the shifter knob...why not just crawl under the truck and do all the work from the bottom side?
what advantage is there to taking the shifter knob off?
also, when reconnecting the linkage, should it just go back on opposite the way it came off?
what advantage is there to taking the shifter knob off?
also, when reconnecting the linkage, should it just go back on opposite the way it came off?
Let me repeat my first paragraph (with emphasis added):...why not just crawl under the truck and do all the work from the bottom side?
"So for those who would like to benefit by my errors, follow these instructions to get the job done right and quick. I struggled to try and install these things from under the truck. Trust me, with the limited area in which to work , it can't be done this way. The best way is to remove the shifter, and the transfer case gear selector arm and install the grommets on the bench"
Even on a lift this would be practically impossible to do. I brought this point up to a friend of mine, and he knew exactly what I was talking about. He is also is a auto repair and machine shop owner.
No it should go back on the same way it came off, not the opposite way.also, when reconnecting the linkage, should it just go back on opposite the way it came off?
To quote myself again:
"4.Make sure you mark the arm somehow so it goes back on the exact same way it came off. Again it is not symetrical, and you do not want to install it backwards, or even put the grommet in wrong."
I should have the grommets on tuesday. ( had to order them) once I have them I will follow your advice.
thanks.
thanks.
part number?
Thanks for the detailed instructions, they'll save me a boatload of time! Only thing, you didn't include the part number...any chance you remember it?
Thanks for the detailed instructions, they'll save me a boatload of time! Only thing, you didn't include the part number...any chance you remember it?
Found this thread helpful, I just installed both of those grommets in under 20 minutes by using boiling hot water to soften them a smidge, then greased 'em and popped them in with a pair of duck billed vise grips. I'll agree that it is a tight space to work in but there is just enough room to do it.
Oh and the part #'s for my 2000 Durango SLT grommets were (1-05017960AA) you will need two.
Can you go into detail about what you needed to remove your way .Found this thread helpful, I just installed both of those grommets in under 20 minutes by using boiling hot water to soften them a smidge, then greased 'em and popped them in with a pair of duck billed vise grips. I'll agree that it is a tight space to work in but there is just enough room to do it.
I just had the Clunk and Shifter floating this morning. The clunk was the eroded grommet hitting off of the drive shaft and slammed into the floor... Took it to my trusted Dodge Dealer cause I needed it fixxed fast... To my surprise the Grommet was $12.35, Labor $59.95... Just $72.30 Total, and it was fixxed in under an hour with the oil change thrown in... Dealers... They are not ALL bad...
Just wanted to add I also boiled the suckers for a good 14 min to soften them up. I couldn'e press them im with a c-clamp or pliers. After finally boiling and lubing them I was able to force them in by hand. I put half in and then used a c-shapes screw driver to push in the part that was sticking out. Massive pain in the arse!
same thing happened to me yesterday.... this thread should be very helpful! REP FOR YOU!
i have it zip tied out of the way of the drive shaft and it will stay there till i get the part from the dealer
i have it zip tied out of the way of the drive shaft and it will stay there till i get the part from the dealer
will boiling this help? will it hurt the rubber down the road?
I doubt its going to hurt the rubber. Rubber dry rots after many years. I could be wrong but I doubt that boiling it in water will actually even come close to its melting temp. I'll tell you after boiling it the way i did, the rubber didn't at all feel any softer. Maybe the boiling didn't do much as me putting the grommet half in and then forcing the other half in by using pressure from my screw driver.
I would be curious how the dealership puts these in.
I would be curious how the dealership puts these in.
got it in with just a little all purpose grease. i didnt take the whole thing apart did it from under the truck
Just wanted to thank everyone for the tips. I had to replace these on my 2000 Durango and this thread saved me a ton of time and effort. I dropped them in boiling water and let them soak in there a while before pressing them in and it worked like a charm. This 5 year old thread sure helped a lot.
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