Where did you buy the polishing kit? Gotta link or something? Thanks!V8 Dragon said:I recently purchased equipment for polishing aluminum, stainless steel and other metals. I'm polishing a bunch of engine parts for some of my vehicles. To get a TRUE mirror finish on metals, it's best to buy a buffing kit. That consists of a buffing motor, buffing wheels and compounds. Through proper technique you will get desired results. There are "metal polishing" chemicals you can buy off the shelf, but all that does is just clean the surface of the metal. To really POLISH metal, you are leveling the surface to get that mirror effect. If all you're polishing is your intercooler and not much more, it might be more practical to just have it polished by someone else. Good equipment can get expensive. If you're interested, contact me and I could polish it up for you. :biggthump
Heres a link to my car and pics of my engine.
Duh it's the best... it's MOTHERS!YellowKota2k said:No matter what anyone says to use, this is the best on earth. I've used the Mothers Powerball and other polishes, but nothing compares to using this stuff by hand.
It's about $13/can, and I'm on my second one. Nothing compares to it, and they'll pay for the cost if you find something that works better.
what is the best way to get a curb mark or a dull area out on a polished style wheel?moore_716 said:Mothers, Eagle one and all the others will work pretty well. They will not give you a mirror finish though. In order for them to work the surface must already be very nice. You will see a difference on a freshly machined part. I guarantee you that you can spend 1 week hand rubbing your intercooler and would see a noticable difference. I could then spend 1 hr. buffing it out with a wheel and you would see that much more difference again. There are 2 keys to buffing. First if you looked at the surface under a microscope it would look like a cut diamond. These facets reflect the light in all different directions. When you buff you are trying to knock the facets down so that the light is all reflected back at you. When buffing it works good if you can buff the part in opposite diagonal directions ( S.E. to N.W. and then N.E. to S.W.). This assures the facets are hit from all directions. The second key is to make sure the part is nice and warm. The heat is what helps you knock sown these facets. If you are buffing correctly the part will get so hot you will have to wear gloves to hold it. Also make sure you use the correct compounds. You will probably have to do the entire process twice. I use a brown compound first. This helps with flattening out major imperfections even if you can't really see them. I finish with a white polishing compound. I then clean all the parts with mineral spirits or acetone. I use the mothers to keep the shine going. Once polished the parts will look dirty fast. Mothers works great to keep them looking good. I know the zoops does work to seal the parts, it's just expensive. I don't mean to step on any toes, just talking from experience that's all.