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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
It stalls during turns where the truck is decellerating/coasting (ei; go pedal not applied). If I was a skinny link I (and any cars I'm turning near) would be screwed (no engine = no pwr steering). Luckily, I've been able to muscle through the turn when it happens. Putting it in nuetral or holding gas and brake while turning helps. It obviously needs to be cured, though.

It's not the TPS, IAC valve, dirty TB or IAC passage, leaky engines vac. lines, battery, terminals...They have all been cleaned or replaced. The plugs look fine (ei; not fouled). The check engine light has been on since new due to perf. mods (cam, int., headers, ex.), and removal of emissions equipment. However, this problem is fairly new. I don't recall it happening until resetting the ECU (pulled the rear comp. connector for some time). I assume that that's just coinsidense, though.

I'm moving on to tranny sensors...Does anyone here have a cause and effect list for the misc. tranny sensors? I recall reading of someone having this same issue caused by a faulty trans sensor. Fluid pressure governor, speed sensor...they ring a bell. The info. mentioned that this faulty sensor can give the comp false info (false speed reading?) and therefore the tranny applies too much (or little?) forward fluid pressure while coming to a stop/turning, and the engine stalls due to too much load.

Anything?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Does it do it if you put it "neutral" before it stalls?
90% of the time it won't stall if I throw it in N before approaching the turn. This is why I've turned to the tranny sensors. I've come to the point to where I'd say that it's definitely speed and load oriented. It's a common problem with these trucks. Unfortunately, only once have I found the last post of someone's thread on this topic being 'case-closed' happy ending ( :D ). No one reports back to thier thread as to what actually ended up being the cause of this problem.

Again, it's not the "sometimes it does it" or "dies at random on the hwy" woes that usually end up being a short somewhere (batt. terminal and ign. wires being common), or a faulty IAC valve. It only custs off while taking a turn downhill or on level ground where the go pedal isn't in use, and occasionally while coming to a stop at a stop sign or light. A dead or faulty IAC will have issues such as an occasionally eratic idle (high and/or low), and/or engine dieing as soon as the throttle is closed. Also sometimes when the A/C clutch engages (assuming that is isn't just a dirty TB). Different scenario, unfortunately. A dead IAC valve would be pie to fix. Late trannies and thier electronics on the other hand are foreign to me...
 

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I ask about putting it "neutral" before it stalls because my 4.7l/auto has done when stopping st a red light or stop sign. I never did find the cause. It will happen a few times over several days and then it just stops acting up. Feels like the 45-RFE and 4.7L are locked together and stalling when the truck comes to a stop. This has been a issue for over a year now. Happens more offten when the motor and 45-RFE are cold and/or its cold outside.

Footnote: The 4.7L block was replaced about a year ago and the stalling did not go away.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I ask about putting it "neutral" before it stalls because my 4.7l/auto has done when stopping st a red light or stop sign. I never did find the cause. It will happen a few times over several days and then it just stops acting up. Feels like the 45-RFE and 4.7L are locked together and stalling when the truck comes to a stop. This has been a issue for over a year now. Happens more offten when the motor and 45-RFE are cold and/or its cold outside.

Footnote: The 4.7L block was replaced about a year ago and the stalling did not go away.
It's typically the 4.7/45 combo when I read of this problem, but I do read of the 3.9/5.2/5.9's having the same issue as well. It's exactly as you're describing. I'm convinced that the culprit is faulty speed sensing and/or fluid pressure regulation equip. in the tranny. It makes more sense than anything else, but I just can't for the life of me get confirmation. @ the absurd cost of the sensors, I didn't want to have to trial an error this, but I guess I have no choice.

If anyone out there needs a kidney, or would just like a spare, I accept cash, checks and CC's...
 

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I vaguely remember a thread about this same issue - where the engine stalled when taking turns at low speeds or while coasting around a turn. If I recall correctly the culprit was actually some sort of sensor at the power steering pump. I think it's supposed to sense the increased pressure/load and up the idle speed just like the system does when the AC compressor is engaged. It might not even be related, because I can't see how going into neutral would help the situation.

Does the engine ever stall in a similar situation but without turning at the same time?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I vaguely remember a thread about this same issue - where the engine stalled when taking turns at low speeds or while coasting around a turn. If I recall correctly the culprit was actually some sort of sensor at the power steering pump. I think it's supposed to sense the increased pressure/load and up the idle speed just like the system does when the AC compressor is engaged. It might not even be related, because I can't see how going into neutral would help the situation.

Does the engine ever stall in a similar situation but without turning at the same time?
Not near as often, but it has stalled a few times nearing straight stops (signs/lights). I no longer have pwr steering (non-related, performance reasons), and don't recall any sensors around the pump, but good call for sure. They certainly do bog while turning the wheel. It does fight it (stumbles) a little before it dies, but it is more of a load than the PS pump pulls. Probably equal to or slightly greater than that of the A/C clutch (a load you can feel in the pedal). Once the tach starts to tap dance on about 500 and it starts to sputter, because of the cam (220-ish @ .05), there's no self-revival. I have to stab the gas to revive it. Once I do that, though, it goes right back to running fine. So far, left-foot braking and slightly holding the gas has been more successful than throwing it in N (died anyway like that tonight - I probably just caught it too late, though). If I didn't live in the city (Atlanta), I'd deal. This sort of stuff is a PITB here, though. A smaller guy or girl would've T-boned someone by now...
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I vaguely remember a thread about this same issue - where the engine stalled when taking turns at low speeds or while coasting around a turn. If I recall correctly the culprit was actually some sort of sensor at the power steering pump. I think it's supposed to sense the increased pressure/load and up the idle speed just like the system does when the AC compressor is engaged. It might not even be related, because I can't see how going into neutral would help the situation.

Does the engine ever stall in a similar situation but without turning at the same time?
To add...IMO, throwing it into N keeping it from stalling points at a tranny issue. There's no forward gear fluid pressure bogging the engine down in nuetral, so it runs fine. Again, just my speculation.
 

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If your tranny fluid is low it can cause the torque converter to stay in lock up mode (no slippage). I've seen it twice after fluid changes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
If your tranny fluid is low it can cause the torque converter to stay in lock up mode (no slippage). I've seen it twice after fluid changes.
Fluid level was the first thing that I checked when my tranny 'hunch' grew. I didn't know about the low-level lock-up ordeal, I just checked it by fluke (start small, right?...). That's good to know, though.
 

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did you ever find a fix for stalling during stops on your dakota? I have a 2000 Dodge Dakota 4.7 and it's stalling during most of the stops. No CEL. Cleaned TB still same thing.
 

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I also have a 2000 dakota 4.7L and am experiencing the same problems. Taking a left on a green light the other day when it happened again. Luckily nobody was coming while I coasted my rolling brick out of the way. At this point I need to take it in before I get busted up at an intersection. I will post the fix here if I figure it out.
 

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Fluid level was the first thing that I checked when my tranny 'hunch' grew. I didn't know about the low-level lock-up ordeal, I just checked it by fluke (start small, right?...). That's good to know, though.
Did you check the fluid level per the manual? You have to do it just right to get a correct reading.
 

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Has anyone figured this out? My 2000 Durango just started to do this at stops only after being on the freeway. The idle jumps around and then it will sometimes stalls. I changed the air filter and spark plugs. My truck is stock. Shows no engine codes.
 

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I have a 2000 Dakota and this problem was serious enough I brought it in (before I cause an accident). The throttle body was gunked up pretty good but the CEL was P0108 which is the Manifold Absolute Pressure sensor gone bad. They replaced the MAP sensor and it's been 3 weeks and I haven't had the problem since. I also had some other codes (P0455, P0442) but they are evap emissions leak codes and unrelated because I've had them long before this problem cropped up. I suggest replacing the MAP sensor before bringing it in because they will fist you for the factory part.
 

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I had this problem and my issue was the MAP sensor. I replaced pretty much everything you did plus I even changed the fuel pump. so I would try the MAP sensor
 

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I'm having the same issue.
yesterday, out of the blue, my '00 Durango started dying every time i took my foot off the gas.

I got a P0108 code (MAP Sensor high voltage), so i replaced it today.

after replacing the MAP sensor, the code is gone, but it's still happening, albeit not as often. when idling in park, it's pretty rough, around 600, will drop a bit, and right before it dies, will bump up a bit. yesterday it would just straight up die.

Over Memorial Weekend, i replaced the Crank Sensor, IAC, TPS, Battery, and also cleaned the throttle body.
Sprayed around the engine compartment, and intake, looking for vaccum leaks, to no avail.


I really need to find a solution, as this is my only vehicle right now. :frown:
 
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