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Discussion Starter #1
Just bought an R/T tonight but unfortunately the wrong oil was put in by the dealership. (5w30 syn. blend) Im planning on changing to mobil 1 10w30 like the factory but should I run synthetic or non synthetic? Truck has 72k on it. What's better? I've heard once you go regular oil you CANT go back to synthetic. Thanks.
 

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Well, if it's always had full synthetic, then stay synthetic. If it's always had regular oil,then they put synthetic in, it may actually begin to leak since the synthetic is so much thinner and slipperier. And 5w 30 is too thin anyway, shouldn't it have 10w-30? That's what I run in my R/T,regular ole Castrol 10w-30..
 

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There is nothing wrong with running 5w-30 in your truck, it wont hurt a thing, along with the synthetic oil.
 

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I just want to make sure it doesn't leak or anything. I want to run synthetic obviously but will there be a performance loss at all if I can't?
 

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I wouldn't think so. I've never ran synthetic in mine, just because what i said earlier in this thread was told to me by my uncle who is a mechanic of over 30 years, maybe these other guys switched to synthetic at 75k+ plus miles with no leaks, but it's obviously happened or my uncle wouldn't have told me about it. Personally, the only way i'd go full synthetic at this point would be after a full rebuild,all new gaskets and seals.

But i do think 5w-30 is too thin regardless..
 

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I've heard the same rumor of if the engine has been using regular non-synthetic oil then you switch to synthetic that leaks could develop. I just did an oil change on a 1995 Chevy S-10 4 banger for a friend of mine. He said this will be the 1st time this engine will see synthetic oil..... his engine has 176k miles. I did the oil change last week so far no reports of any leaks.

I also agree that the 5w30 is a bit too thin but shouldn't hurt anything though. I ran my 4.7L that's supposed to have 5w30 with 10w30 instead by accident. Didn't hurt anything.
 

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Some vehicles come from the factory with full synthetic. If you're currently burning oil it's not wise to change over to synthetic as it'll cost you money more than anything else. If you're not burning oil you'll save in the long run.

I use Amsoil full syn 5W30 in my Durango.

Semi-synthetics are a mixed bag. They're not all 50% petrol and 50% synthetic stock bases. It might be 20% synthetic, 5% detergents, and 75% petrol oil. You really don't know what you're getting, so it's best to avoid. Either go full synthetic, or don't.

Fully synthetic engine oil unleashes HP that would otherwise be lost due to friction. If you drive 15K+ miles a year, full synthetic is a good choice as you will only need to do one, perhaps two oil changes a year depending on the brand specifications.

I use AMsoil full syn 5W30 and change it once a year in all my vehicles. I run 5W20 in my Taurus as that is the factory spec weight. I don't add oil throughout the year in either car. I do add oil in the Durango as I tow quite a bit with it, and drive the crap out of it. It's abused, but still runs smoother then any other work vehicle I've owned for what I've put it through over the years. I changed the oil over to synthetic after I bought it at 50K, and I've been doing one oil change a year on it for the last 7 years.

Seals wear out, among other parts, and a lot of time it isn't due to the engine oil. Climate and geographical region all play a part in the life of hardened rubber parts and solid metal parts alike. That's like me blaming my oil pan gasket leak on my Ford Taurus to using synthetic oil. No. It's called not having bolts torqued properly from the factory that allowed the seal to slowly seep out and cause a leak at 42K after the warranty expired.

There are too many factors to blame problems on engine oil alone for any leaks. Synthetics save me time, money and patience each year that passes and I wouldn't change it for anything.
 

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just my .02 cents and i know everyone has other opinions but I say go full synthetic, better protection, lasts longer not as many change intervals least thats how I run mine, especially if you like to run your r/t a little hard at times, my engine has 163K miles on it now and sometimes I think if it wasn't for running good oil for so long since I owned it at 47K that it woulda went a long time ago.
 

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Switched over to Mobil1 5w-30 full synthetic about 800km ago. No leaks, the motor's lovin'n it running perfectly smooth. Seems to like the higher revs more than it did before with the basic Castrol. 5.9 R/T mild mods
 

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I personally run Mobil 1 full synthetic in everything I own and usually run 6k to 9k oil change intervals. I switched my car at 90k and have 175 on it now with zero leaks or issues. Honestly 5w30 isn't going to hurt anything but I would switch to 10w30 at the next oil change.
 

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Both the 5w-30 and 10w-30 are 30 weight oils at operating temp, the 5w will circulate far easier/faster at cold start-up than the 10w.
FWIW, I have been running 5w since the 3,000 mi mark on mine, now has 73-74k
 

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Chicago etc in the winter 0-30
start up lube is critical
Magnums have tighter clearances than older motors
Go synthetic

we had a customer with a VW waterboxer that quit burning oil when we switched to Castrol 5w-50
 

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Chicago etc in the winter 0-30
start up lube is critical
Magnums have tighter clearances than older motors
Go synthetic

we had a customer with a VW waterboxer that quit burning oil when we switched to Castrol 5w-50
http://dodgeram.org/tech/gas/specs/5_9v8.htm
http://www.positivespin.us/MotorOil.htm
Side Clearance (two rods) 0.152-0.356mm, 0.006-0.014 in
you probably don't know exactly what your rod side and bearing clearance measured at on your engine unless it's been rebuilt since new, so this may be a bit over kill of my .02 here but hopefully this is helpful to the forum and your post.

fresh rebuild side clearance measured @ .008". my engine machinist (a pro mod engine builder) told me that the tighter the rod side clearances and bearing clearance within the allowable tolerances, the the lighter weight oil can be used but also mentioned that if you are on the looser end of those tolerances you must use a heavier weight oil to maintain a good and safe oil pressure of 10 PSI per 1000 RPMS. using 5W30 Valvoline SynPower Fully Synthetic. about to change oil and filter for the second time in another 200 miles or next weekend. oil still looks new on the dipstick and smells normal. initial break in oil used was rotella 10w30 with lucas zinc additive and mopar filter.
 

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you have few miles on your change and your oil looks good and smells good
cut the filter open and see if there is any crap in it
if yes change the oil
if no just change the filter and add a a quart
good choices on the break in oil
you can go further between changes
think about 0w-30 for the reasons mentioned above
and those of you in cold country really think about it
note to lurkers- do not run ZDDS past break in in a late roller cam motor- to many deposits
do run some in flat tappet motors- BVVC in your oil choice in a non roller cam motor
the latest energy savings oil will not add life to your cam and tappets (or your rockers)
 

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ZDDP is not needed in a roller engine, flat tappet, yes.
ZDDP levels in Rotella are significantly reduced from what they once were.
ZDDP in a engine running a cat, runs the risk of ruining the cat.
 

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Synthetic oil isn't thinnner than dino. 5 w is 5w whether it be dino or synthetic. Synthetic will flow better at lower temps because it won't thicken with the temp.
Newer vehicles have newer seal materials that resist seepage. If your engine is leaking a bit on dino stay with dino.
 
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