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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
After searching in vain for something similar to what I'm about to write, I finally had to just jump in feet first. For those of us that are still building our mechanical experience, this thread should be useful. However, after completing the job, you will realize that it was actually a pretty easy task despite the intense feeling of satisfaction that you'll get from doing it for the first time.

Safety:
*Always support a vehicle with jack stands. Though I'm sure that Chinese company that assembled your $35 Wal-mart jack appreciates your faith in their product, don't trust them. My brother was nearly killed last year when his jack collapsed and crushed him under his car. Please be smart.

*Work in a clean, well-light environment - it just makes everything easier.

*Lock the emergency brake and block the rear tires.


Tools:
*Breaker bar
*8mm wrench
*13mm wrench
*14mm wrench
*T-47 star type allen wrench (I'm not sure what its real name is)
*Impact Gun (highly, highly recommended) or 1/2" Ratchet and 6" extension
*35mm socket for the impact gun or breaker bar (a 1 1/4" will also fit)
*Pliers
*Hammer
*Flat tip screwdriver
*Some kind of penetrating spray
*200' Torque Wrench

Note:
Justme84 (see post below) strongly recommends against the use of an impact gun due to the role that the axle nut plays in the loading of the bearing. In my experience, the impact gun was invaluable in the removal of the nut, however, to his point, it makes sense to def. use a torque wrench when reinstalling the nut. (Thanks '84)

Procedure:
1. Remove the center cap

2. Use the pliers to remove the cotter pin through the end of the axel.

3. Remove the axel nut locking device


4. Use the ratchet, extension, and socket to remove the axle nut


5. When either the socket or the extension breaks from the torque, go buy an impact gun (air or electric)


($99 at Lowes - all three of my extensions broke and I fought with the nut for over an hour. The impact gun took it off in about 2 seconds).


6. Set brake, block rear tires, jack up truck, and remove front wheel/tire (this can be done before removing the axle nut if using the impact gun).

7. Use the T-47 wrench to remove the brake caliper and tie it aside with a piece of wire or zip tie.


8. Slide the brake rotor off and lay aside

9. Use the 13mm wrench to remove the two nuts holding the small dust shield in place and lay aside.


10. Use the 8mm wrench to remove the small bolt holding the antilock brake wire in place on the back of the spindle

11. Use the flat tip screwdriver to pop off the clips holding the antilock brake wire to the brake line. Unplug the wire.

12. Use the 14mm wrench and a cheater bar to remove the three bolts holding the hub assembly to the spindle. A breaker bar may work, but a ratchet will NOT - the axle blocks access to the bolts. I used a piece of 2' long steel pipe to leverage against the A arms to push against the wrench to break the bolts loose. It was tough, but not bad at all once I got a method down. I just put the boxed end of the wrench around the bolt head, placed the pipe against the A arm for leverage, and then used it to push against the wrench. Penetrating fluid also helps.

(A picture of one of the three bolts)
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
Step-by-Step Hub Replacement (cont.)

13. Tap (beat) around the sides of the hub with the hammer while working it back off the end of the axle. It will probably be rusty and will take some time (penetrating fluid helps here, as well).

(notice the trusty pipe on the floor...)

14. The spindle and axle will probably be rusty since Chrysler decided to basically leave everything exposed to the elements (permanently sealed... :blahblah: ) which is likely what caused the failure to begin with. Clean them up the best you can with rags, wire brushes, and cleaner (I just used the BP Blaster that I was already using for penetrating spray).

15. Since I wanted to keep as much water and gunk out of the bearings as possible, I packed the chamber and back side of the new hubs with grease, though I suppose you don't really need to.


16. Slide hub on to the axle, bolt in place, and reassemble everything else in reverse order. The axle nut is to be torqued to something like 180 ft-lbs. My impact gun is good to 250 or so, so I just put it on there and let it fly.

Note: it might not be a bad time to take care of those brakes since everything is already apart anyway.

Advice: Please support the vehicle with jack stands and do yourself a favor - go buy an impact wrench before even getting started. You'll be glad you did, even if you only keep it for the afternoon if you know what I mean (keep that receipt!).

:beer:
 

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i leak oil and coolant
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wow just in time!
im about to change mine too!
you are the best. thanks man!
 

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.:.:.:.:.:.:.:.
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Something else to add, the slide bolts holding the caliper on are a hex (7mm as I recall) on my truck.

A small portion of common sense should be used when working on your vehicle to be sure that said wrench is the proper one for the fastener you are removing.

Also, I coated all the mating surfaces of the axle shaft, hub and knuckle with copper based anti-seize to ease future disassembly. If you're like me, you'll have the thing long enough to replace another hub and you will surely be happy you applied the anti-seize.
 

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Dak-Dur 11th Most Wanted
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Something else to add, the slide bolts holding the caliper on are a hex (7mm as I recall) on my truck.

A small portion of common sense should be used when working on your vehicle to be sure that said wrench is the proper one for the fastener you are removing.
My caliper bolts are T-40.
 

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17mpg

okay are saying your getting 17 mpg on your durango?
 
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