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So does anyone have any experience with redoing the seals/bearings on these suckers? Mine is leaking at the input shaft and I figure I may as well do the whole thing while im at it. The kit is only $20.
 

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+1 this would be nice to find, insted of paying $450 for a new one
 

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ive never rebuilt a dakota box, but ive had a few of the F150's boxes apart at work. the seals are always leakin in those things. its a pretty simple setup. just a worm gear deal with some ball bearings in there and the seals. check the shaft for pitting on the seal face. if its pitted or grooved, you can throw all the seals you want at it, it wont stop leaking until you replace/repair the shaft.

oh yeah, and there is an adjustment on the fords boxes, id imagine ours are the same. its for taking the "slop" outta the steering box after its together. if memory serves me correctly, its a long set screw with a jam nut on it. loosen the jam nut, tighten or loosen the set screw to take the play out, then tighten the jam nut back up.
 

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I this a whole rebuilt unit like as in remanufactured, or is this the kit to rebuild it yourself
 

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thats, not as bad i thought, does anybody have the link, i havnt seen ityet in the thread.
 

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How hard would this be to uninstall and install again, i have good mechanic skill, im just wondering cause i have never done one
 

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How hard would this be to uninstall and install again, i have good mechanic skill, im just wondering cause i have never done one
I never fully dropped mine until I did my SAS and I have a ton of clearance. With the IFS in there, it would make it harder to drop out, but it unbolts with 3 bolts and then just separate the pitman arm and shaft/lines.

Kevin
 

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I'll say it here just like I did the the clutch master cylinder...I don't have $140 to drop on a rebuilt one.
I understand. I read up on it alot before I replaced mine. Found there are special tools and adjustments needed that I didn't feel comfortable attempting myself.

you will need an impact wrench and a 33-34mm socket (don't recall specificly) to get the pitman arm nut off. and as far as getting the pitman arm itself off... good luck, a shop press is your best bet. I just got a new arm and sent the original off with the core.
 

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I understand. I read up on it alot before I replaced mine. Found there are special tools and adjustments needed that I didn't feel comfortable attempting myself.

you will need an impact wrench and a 33-34mm socket (don't recall specificly) to get the pitman arm nut off. and as far as getting the pitman arm itself off... good luck, a shop press is your best bet. I just got a new arm and sent the original off with the core.
No you don't, you just can't have pussy arms....once you have it on a bench you can break it, I used a crescent wrench with no problems. To get the arm off, put some tension on it with a puller and whack the side of the arm with a hammer, should drop right off.

Kevin
 

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My steering is loose as hell. I have a feeling it is more than likely because of the 37's I have on the truck. Would a new steering box tighten it all up. Thanks.
When was the last time you replaced your pitman/idler/TRE's? When i had 35, I adjusted the preload on the input shaft (Allen head on top of the box) and that help get rid of a lot of play.
 

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i have looked and i DO NOT see the allen head on top of the steering gear box to adjust it
 

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its located in the center of a locknut. you loosen the nut, turn the adjustment screw, then tighten the nut again. do it in 1/4 turns (testing between) until the slop is gone. I say 1/4 turns max because overadjusting it will stress the internals into premature failure.

No you don't, you just can't have pussy arms....once you have it on a bench you can break it, I used a crescent wrench with no problems. To get the arm off, put some tension on it with a puller and whack the side of the arm with a hammer, should drop right off.

Kevin
I didn't have a vice to hold it down, I just stood on it and hit it with the impact wrench lol... so yeah I guess either a vice or impact wrench or both.
 
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