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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just bought a '98 Dodge Durango with a 5.2L a few weeks ago. I have been surfing the net for info, and found that a number of people have had sludge build up, resulting in loss of oil flow to the oil pump, resulting in engine failure. Any suggestions in preventing this from happening? People claim the failures have happened despite regular oil changes.
 
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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
I have a 5.2 in my Durango. I have never had that problem. I have 72,000 miles on mine. The best thing I can tell you is change your oil every 3,000 miles and use good oil. Like Mobil 1 synthic. I also get this oil system flush from Advance Auto. I use it every time I change my oil. The one I use has no karosene (or how ever you spell it) or gasoline in it. It's about 3 dollars. Hope this helps.
 

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I'm with tiggerweed change your fluids to synthetic and run a flush every once in a while. I've got over 70K with no problems to speak of (knock on wood)
 

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I was also curious about this problem. I just rolled 147,xxx on my Durrango so I am pretty sure I have nothing to worry about but is it to late to switch to a synthetic due to the possibility of it seeping? Or maybe should I switch to a semi synthetic blend?
 

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Bumpin_z said:
I was also curious about this problem. I just rolled 147,xxx on my Durrango so I am pretty sure I have nothing to worry about but is it to late to switch to a synthetic due to the possibility of it seeping? Or maybe should I switch to a semi synthetic blend?
seeping???? where is it gonna seep from? why would synthetic seep and regular not?
 
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
This is the reason it would seep though The big difference between regular and synthetic oil is. Regular oil provides protection and all that. But synthetic has cleaners is it also. So if your using regular motor oil it can fill a leak (by slugde build up). Do to the fact if you have a leak regular motor oil might leak from there and evently fill that hole with old motor oil and stop the leak or prevent the evidence of the leak. If this happens and then you switch to synthetic with the cleaners in it it might clean out that sludge and cause leaks that you never knew you had cause synthetic contains cleaners. That's the best way I can explain it. If you don't understand this reply just let me know and I'll try to explain it better. Bumpin_z i would think you can but that is just from a personal experince. When I was in High school I had a mustang and did that and it didn't cause any problems. With symi synthetic. People say it's not good to switch to synthetic with the amount of miles on your Durango. The reason is with regular motor oil you will eventually build sludge in the engine but it will not harm it. But then u run synthetic though it and it cleans that stuff out and then it can clog an oil hole or something like that (from the sludge it cleans out). Then that parts is not getting oil or not getting enough oil and then that parts fails. So that's why you wouldn't want to run synthetic. Hope this helps you guyz.
 

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I think I understand. Let me add something. Which would you rather have. Sludge build-up or a seep? I would rather change to synthetic and coat my engine than have the sludge build-up. you can always get a seep fixed. just my $.02
 
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
rockadaous I would to but the problems is. Is if the sludge is really thick or even a little in the engine and then you run sythenic. Yes it will clean it at start leaks but what happens if that build up clogs up an oil hole in the engine then you will have an engine good bad. But like you said that's my 2 cents
 

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Thanx for the insight from both sides. I think switching to a semi synthetic may be my best move for now until I can get some bills paid off and drop in a new motor or rebuild this one. Thanx alot.

Chris
 
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I used quaker state syntec for the longest and had sludge build up, of course changing the oil between 3-5000 miles, I drive mostly highway miles (actually autobahn being here in Germany). Anyway, this is the issue I am having right now, I posted this in the trouble shooting part but I don't know how many people read that part, I have one response so far, any other ideas..

"I have a 1998 Durango SLT Plus 5.2L with 58000 miles on it, I am the first owner, bought it in March of 1998..

I am losing about a quart of oil every 100 to 150 miles. There are no oil leaks and I don't see any smoke coming out of the exhaust, I would notice if it was burning that much oil. Recently I had the oil pan dropped and cleaned because of all the sludge that these engines build up for some reason. I noticed the oil consumption before the cleaning, I have to put about 2 quarts in every fill up. Where can the oil be going?? I also drained the radiator to see if any is in there but there wasn't, I figure it has to be burning it but why don't I see it?? I used Quaker state syntec for the first five years until all the sludge (thought that was the reason for it) and now I use penzoil 10-30w. The oil consumption is the same........ Any ideas...."
 

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yup i got a 5.2L in mine but i haven't had any problem like that and mine has 83000 miles on it
 

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I don't think they are referring to the 318's, or the 360's. There has been a ton of sludge issues with the 3.7's and 4.7's. I don't even think D.C. has even figured this out yet. I have personally seen 3 engines replaced under warranty due to sludge....2 3.7's and 1 4.7. Each had records of normal service as well.

I have never seen an issue with the other motors, unless you run 25,000 miles without an oil change (like on of my customers did.......LOL)

Chris said:
I just bought a '98 Dodge Durango with a 5.2L a few weeks ago. I have been surfing the net for info, and found that a number of people have had sludge build up, resulting in loss of oil flow to the oil pump, resulting in engine failure. Any suggestions in preventing this from happening? People claim the failures have happened despite regular oil changes.
 

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How do you know when you have sludge? Is there anything specific to look for. What is the remedy?
 

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GOON'S D said:
How do you know when you have sludge? Is there anything specific to look for. What is the remedy?

Engine noise is the main issue that you will hear. You can pull one of the valve covers off and look.

Only advise I can give to owners with the ill fated 2.7, less likely 3.7, and once in a great while 4.7 owners is stay with a good 10W30, and change your oil @2500 miles and every 30K have it flushed out real well. For those do-it-yourselfers you can buy a can of motor flush for 2 or 3 dollars at a local parts store. Synthetic oil isn't a bad idea either, but remember once you go synthetic dont go back to regular. It could play havoc on your seals within the engine.
 

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Thanks for the info. man. I don't think that I have any of those symptoms yet. I switched to Mobil1 10w30 when I bought the D. I plan to swap out the valve covers some time this year for billet aluminum. That will be a good time to check in the engine for a sludge problem.
 
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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Try puting in 1/2 quart of ATF and let the motor run for about an hour and then dump it right away (BE CAREFUL THE OIL WILL BE HOT). I did that every 6 months or every other oil change so that the ATF will not eat the seals. Do not reuse the filter replace when chainging oil.
 
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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
With sludge buildup, your oil pressure will drop to 0, and if you keep driving BANG! :explode: Then your engine stops....

I have just dropped the pan on my Durango (over the last two days...) and the end of the pickup screen was completely caked with sludge, I had to scrape it off with a screwdriver!

POC
 
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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Mopar dealers lie about sludge

Look this is a problem-sludge motors. Toyota has it with the 3.4 V6, Dodge has it with the 4.7 and 2.7 V6 (shitbox); but also with 5.2/5.9s that have dino oil or have the manifold gasket chew out. I am a dedicated vintage Mopar nut with many under my belt--but I have never seen sludgy V8s--not in 100K + 318s, 225K slant sixes, 340s or etc--UNTIL RECENTLY. My bought new 95 Dak is @100K so I began my research on the 2005 w/4.7/5Auto. I was shocked to find out the THOUSANDS OF CUSTOMERS THAT DC HAS SCREWED WITH SO CALLED POWERTRAIN WARRANTIES. It seems that because of ring tolerances, narrow oil passages, maybe even mis-designed pickups--loyal Dodge owners are having motors seize and blow at low mileages....only to be told by dealer's service centers that they didn't take care of their motors properly....and that they will have to pay for new motors. I understand business and margins, but this is a known problem that consists of neglect( i.e. 'balljoints' remember?). I'm torn apart by this-my loyalty to Ma Mopar and consumer pride- but this just isn't right. How can Ford owners drive relatively trouble free for many years-Toyo and Nissan trux are smokin the competition-and Dodge decides to put a troubled motor back into the 2005 Dak....but not a Hemi. I appreciate a cammer, but not one that will froth, milkshake, foam and gel****and all Ma does to rectify the situation is install a little plastic baffle so we can't see the gunk building in the valvecovers. CRIMINAL BEHAVIOR...I RAN MOBIL ONE FOR 100, 000 MILES AND I STILL MILKSHAKED. I feel this is a design issue not oil or owner neglect. Lets hear it boys....(and girl) :explode:
 
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