SAS Dakota Hemi swap build Thread

29505 Views 93 Replies 12 Participants Last post by Mad-Max, 2 mo ago

sasdakota

Discussion Starter · Oct 20, 2017

Well its Officially began and I'm going to try my best to post the most info I can and instructions as I can...... But hell, I'll be learning this too and I might as well help others who are going down this road. With that said, I will need help from you guys as we go but I know enough people here can help down this road less traveled with the Hemi.

So here we go!!!

Background: Starting off with my 01 4.7 Dakota that is my crawler and weekend cruiser. Had 4.7 and then I went supercharged for 2 years and it just wasn't enough. Sold the supercharger and now beginning the swap. Just picked up my donor motor which is a 2008 Dodge Charger ex police car with a Crate Hemi with only 25k on it with paperwork. Picked it up last night for 2 grand after almost a 1,000 mile round trip.

Step one will be to pull Hemi out and then Pull rest of 4.7 out of the Dakota to begin.

My question for this week is the motor mounts....... I know the kit offered online that people use for about 180 is what I want to go with but my question is. I heard that one side of the kit is based off the 4wd diff like factory but mine use frame mounts on both side being SAS. Anyone have info on this?

I will try and post pictures and video as we go. This will be my Dakota build thread. Let me know any questions.

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Vladek

· #17 · Nov 10, 2017 (Edited)

Some guys say that the 4.7 flywheel will bolt up. But, on mine. There was just enough difference that I couldn't. Not sure if the bolt pattern changed any (wouldn't think so) between years. So I got a flywheel and clutch kit from http://americanpowertrain.com/. So I went with the flywheel for the 5.7 hemi and the same clutch size our trucks call for, 11" I think. It bolted up with no problems. I have the getrag 6spd. but the ideal shouldn't change. Also take in mind. I'm still in the process of the swap. So my truck isn't running yet.

Long story made short. Put the 4.7 flywheel on the crank. If you can bolt it up. run with it.

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Vladek

· #25 · Jan 26, 2018

something else to look at. get the front cover off a ram hemi. more money on parts, but it should put the alt. on the top driver side of the motor... Hoping the picture comes thru.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/I...R3psDujcpBWQesU5jd7Gv0axbKk-CpNA=w741-h987-no

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Vladek

· #38 · Feb 12, 2018

I've been trying not to say anything because I really don't know for sure. Mine not running yet, I'm still messing with the wiring. However. When I was putting the starter on, I noticed that the start that came with my hemi didn't go in far enough to get a good bite on the flywheel. But the bendix had more travel and would be able to catch the flywheel.

The hemi had a automatic trans where my dakota was already a manual trans. but, like I said. I haven't turned the key yet.

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Vladek

· #40 · Feb 13, 2018

if you can turn the motor over, then my best (guess) would be the 4.7 starter doesn't have enough ass to work on the hemi. So you might need to look at 08 ram starter. since dodge stop running manuals in the 1500 in 2009. Or the 4.7 starter my be a little weaker do to being how ever old ( normal wear and use). you could test to with multimeter to see if it pulling enough amps.

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Vladek

· #55 · Feb 21, 2018

RXT said:
Sounds weak or maybe dead battery. Usual checks are battery, cables and starter. Don't assume anything when you check. Sometimes what seems to be a good battery can actually be bad, same goes to starters and cables. Try another battery and you could even try using two batteries in series or a jump. You could bypass a cable with jumpers. Clamp one side to the positive battery post and the other side of the jumper, touch the starter lug to see if you got more spin. Did you buy a brand new starter? Or rebuilt? Was it made in China?

Ed

I agree with RXT. Something else also. Grab the battery from one of you other vehicles to see if that makes a difference. The old one might be loosing cold crank amps. Plus that is an easy and cheap test.

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Vladek

· #59 · Feb 22, 2018

I figuring that the video was with the old 4.7 starter. Can't remember if you got a new yet. Just my experence, but I have a hard time trusting the tests for batteries, alternators, and starters when the are out of the vehicle. They may work and have good meter readings, but that is without a load on them. If you have a buddy, You have them use a multi meter on the battery to what the volts drop to. While trying to start the truck. Then test the starter to how much voltage it is really pulling (it you can get to it without issues}.

I understand the the fustration with the lack of info for this kind of swap. I'm doing a 2010 5.7 Hemi (from a Ram 1500), to a 2005 Dakota. With Getrag 238, 4x4. I'm hoping to be finished with wiring this weekend.

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Vladek

· #61 · Feb 26, 2018

Awesome. what was the problem?

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Vladek

· #67 · Mar 5, 2018

I don't think it will be an issue. On my 5.7, the mds wiring lays right on the block. Sandwich with a foam block between the intake and block. Unless you are real close to the exhaust. I think you will be fine. But zip ties work pretty good if it is an issue.

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Vladek

· #72 · Mar 28, 2018

If you can. Squeeze the hoses, repeatily. that should help work some of the air bubbles out. Plus, the engine might have to warm up enough to open the t-stat. If you haven't done that already.

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