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Discussion Starter #1
I need to replace the ball joints and front upper and lower control arm bushings in my 2000 Durango 4WD. I am thinking of just buying new upper and lower arms so I don’t have to spend hours of agony trying to remove and replace the ball joints and bushings in the current control arms.

There are Moog “problem solver” control arms available, but they are quite a bit more expensive than others. I have looked at the descriptions from Moog and they do look better.

Does any one have experience with the Moogs or with other control arms? I am also doing the 2” torsion bar key/shackle lift with new ATS leaf springs, and intend to use the Durango for some light/moderate off-roading. I don’t want to have to replace ball joints/bushings again.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Good point. What I meant to say is I would prefer to replace bushings and ball joints less frequently.

The ball joints on the Moog control arms look to be better quality than the stock ones, and are grease-able and also replaceable without drilling out rivets. The bushings are stock rubber, I believe, so no advantage there.

The bushings and ball joints on my Durango now are original and so have lasted 19 years and over 100,000 miles. So OEM seems good.

I am guessing that some of the cheaper control arms are not good quality.
 

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Good point. What I meant to say is I would prefer to replace bushings and ball joints less frequently.

The ball joints on the Moog control arms look to be better quality than the stock ones, and are grease-able and also replaceable without drilling out rivets. The bushings are stock rubber, I believe, so no advantage there.

The bushings and ball joints on my Durango now are original and so have lasted 19 years and over 100,000 miles. So OEM seems good.

I am guessing that some of the cheaper control arms are not good quality.
You guess right.

There are some good high quality parts out there.

There's also some made from prime Chinesium and Thaitanium ...

Alas, Moog quality isn't what it used to be.

I wish you the best of luck on your work.

RwP
 

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check out Rock Auto I bought mine from there upper and lower control arms, in and outer tie rod ends and new CV axles. I too have the 2" lift kit (torsion and shackle).
BTW my 98' Durango has 256,000+ miles and this is the most work I have done in the 19 years I have owned it. bought her with 74,000 miles she has been crossed country 3 times and up & down the west coast countless number of times.

I have to say this is the best SUV I have owned.

But yes I buy my parts from either the local auto parts stores or from Rock Auto, just depending on what I need.
Go for the full control arms. and check the boots on every part on the front end and replace or repair it, it is all worth the money in my opinion, weighing the cost of a new one along with the down payment we decided to go with putting the money in to our beloved Durango 🚙
George
 

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Save your money, replace just the bushings and ball joints in your present control arms. and IDK about some of these up and coming brands but even though Moog has taken a hit on some of their offerings in my experience they are still the best game out there. TRW used to be good, I hadn't seen them around in a while, I see they seem to be making a comeback. been tempted to try the Mevotech stuff I haven't used them but hear good things.,.
for bushings I'm partial to Moog "problem solver" line or else Energy suspension poly.
I just got done doing the bushings on my 01, (every bushing in the front, rack mount and sway bar included) I had replaced ball joints when I got it at 214K, now has 258K and they are as tight as they were when I put them in there. I went with Energy suspension rack bushings, upper and lower control arm bushings, and Moog bushings on the sway bar. just did this and had it aligned 2 weeks ago. BIG difference.

Check that; I put Moog lowers in there and at the same time, a factory Dodge "recall package" pair of uppers made by I don't know who at 214K. The uppers had been replaced before I got it, by who, and what brand were used Is an unknown. But all 4 were beyond shot when I brought it home. The "recall package" ones were suggested by a Mopar dealer mechanic who I have known for 20+ years, says he put many of them in without issue at 1/2 the price of Moog.

When I passed 221K, we were down in Houston (19 hours from home which is Chicago-ish) went down into a dip and across a set of RR tracks at around 25MPH, and the pass side upper broke at base of threads, I pulled off the road and walked 2 miles (each way) to an oreillys, which was the closest place my kid's phone could bring up, that's old auto parts. I definitely wasn't familiar with the area, didnt seem like a "good" area toi be broke down in. They tried to sell me house brand, at 1/2 the price of Moog/ and I said "no way". I hadn't ever deviated from Moog before, on one of my own vehicles. so the guy brings out 2 heavily dusty yellow boxes from the stock room, theyd obviously been on the shelf for quite a while. I bought both, replaced the busted one on site, and the other 2 days later in the motel parking lot as my wife and son checked out of the motel and packed our crap into the back, I wasn't taking that chance at 70-80MPH on the 19 hour ride home. I have yet to have to replace a Moog part a 2nd time and I have done lots of front end work, having been an alignment guy for around 20 years.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thank you all for your input and advice. I am installing new leaf springs and shackles this weekend, along with shocks, and turning the torsion bars for a 2" lift, all between eating turkey leftovers. So far going well.

Bushings and ball joints on front control arms look good but they are original so they will be next on my list. I am checking Rock Auto.
 

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Bushings and ball joints on front control arms look good but they are original so they will be next on my list. I am checking Rock Auto.
Just personal notes.

I do like how my Energy Suspension bushings have worked so far in my 1988 Dakota, with close to 200,000 miles on them (!!!), but after I installed, I discovered Prothane Black poly bushings have graphite in them to keep down the annoying poly EEKookEEKook as you drive down the street (I spray my bushings with a PTFE spray every time I do an oil change, so it's not too bad on my truck.)

ProForged suspension parts are supposedly all made in Taiwan (not mainland China), and have great reviews on the Chevy groups, so I tried them last front suspension rebuild. So far I only have about 6,000 miles on them, but they seem to be doing good.

RwP
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks for the input. Proforged has ball joints for a 2000 Durango -- I will check them out.

Prothene has sway bar bushings but not control arm bushings for a 2000 Durango. They do seem like a good choice for the sway bars if they don't need lubrication to avoid the squeaking.
 

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So will the worn out control arm bushings make it wander a bit. Mine has new tires, shocks, ball joints, steering box and half shaft. I think it drives fine albeit like a truck but fine. My girl hates it says it is all over the road. Now her durango was an 01 with a rack and pinion and not a steering gear so maybe thats it but i am hearing the eeek eeek sound from one side and thought... "bushings. Now I bought her a silverado when the durango lost compression in no 5 cylinder and she hates my 99's handling. Do you guys thing the bushings will make a big difference, It has about 180k on the body.
 

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And not trying to hi jack the thread just interested it the answers. Also to the original poster. The riveted ball joints do not have to be drilled. A chisel and 2lb sledge break the rivets heads with ease
 
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