[Anthony]

This weekend I wanted to change the Hydraulic control package on the truck. I ordered the kit from Dodge which includes the master and slave cylinder and lines already pre-bleed.

I had a hell of a fight trying to get the Master cylinder out of the firewall, with no luck. Damn thing has no room to come out and would hit the brake booster. I was running out of time and patience with this fucking thing so I put everything back together like before.

Did you guys remove the brake booster to remove and install the Master? I've read it's a bitch of a job to change, but this is bullshit!!

Any help would be great!!

 

[razman131]

normally the brake pedal pushes on the booster and that pushes the master cyl.

might be easier to pull it out as a unit and do it on the bench. at least on my Camaro it was.


autozone usually has pix to a job or grab a Haynes book.

 

[Trouble Maker]

normally the brake pedal pushes on the booster and that pushes the master cyl.

might be easier to pull it out as a unit and do it on the bench. at least on my Camaro it was.


autozone usually has pix to a job or grab a Haynes book.

He is talking about the Clutch Master & Slave Cylinder not the Brake Booster/Master Cylinder.
My FSM doesn't mention removing the Booster for access but it is very vague on a lot of stuff.

 

[Anthony]

^^^ Exactly I've looked at the FSM as well and it doesn't mention removing the booster either. The bolts on the Clutch Master don't even clear the firewall before hitting the booster when removing.

Russ take a look at your 02 you'll see what I'm talking about how tight the clearance is.

I know a few members have done this replacement I hope they chime in!!

 

[Anthony]

wow nobody knows!!!

 

[reim0061]

I know I I'm a few months late, but maybe this can help somebody still. I just replaced my hydraulic clutch control with one I purchased online that had the assembly together per bled. if you search around long enough I got mine on mopar parts online for 198 which is about as cheap as I could find. Getting master cylinder out is a pain in the ace, but it can be done without touching the brake booster or anything else. what I ended up doing was removing the plastic wheel well shield which wasn't too bad only a few pins, and removing the metal bolt that holds the metal wheel well peice in place right behind the master cylinder. that will allow you to slightly pull it out away so you can remove the clutch cylinder, takes a little bit of wiggling but it will come out pretty easily, then I pulled the reservoir and slave cylinder out through the wheel well. then assembly was just reverse of removal, everything goes back into the wheel well pretty easily you have to pull out on that metal piece a little bit to get enough clearance between the wall and the brake booster for the reservoir get up there. once I figured it out only took a few minutes to get it all done.one more tip is the plastic strips that hold the slave cylinder pushrod down leave those in when you install it into the housing, and when you first apply the clutch fully they should break and release the pushrod. you don't have to worry about breaking them off.

hope this helps someone I know I wasted a lot of time looking and couldn't find any answers.

 

[TAYLOR]

Thanks, this will be a big helP.

 

[sunrise7]

Can change 2000 Dakota Clutch master w/o removing brake booster

Thanks. It worked ! Pulled the whole assembly [ reservoir / master / slave ] out from the top on the drivers side of the brake vacuum booster WITHOUT having to remove the booster ! Trick was taking down partially the rear portion of the plastic fender well and loosening one bolt that attached that sheet metal portion of the inner fender well that is lust below and to the drivers side of where the mater mounts. To get at that bolt you have to get under the truck at the rear end of the front wheel well, pull the plastic inner fender well liner forward and look up. You will see it, its a body bolt, easy to get out and put back in. Just pull down on that sheetmetal piece under the master as you wiggle the master up and out of the area on the drivers side of the brake booster, you may need a helper to pull down on it to make enough clearance to pull the master up and out. It will come out thru there WITHOUT removing the booster, I did it ! I bought the complete clutch hydraulics set-up, pre-charged with fluid from RockAuto. Cost about $125. Just snaked it all back down from the drivers side of the brake booster, again having a helper pull down on that sheetmetal piece below it. Just snake the slave back thru the path that the old one came out along..... Good Luck !
:goodluck:

 

[phoenixx_00]

This weekend I wanted to change the Hydraulic control package on the truck. I ordered the kit from Dodge which includes the master and slave cylinder and lines already pre-bleed.

I had a hell of a fight trying to get the Master cylinder out of the firewall, with no luck. Damn thing has no room to come out and would hit the brake booster. I was running out of time and patience with this fucking thing so I put everything back together like before.

Did you guys remove the brake booster to remove and install the Master? I've read it's a bitch of a job to change, but this is bullshit!!

Any help would be great!!

might be years late on reply but here it is... 2002 dodge dakota sxt 3.9 complete clutch master/slave assembly replacement.
booster is directly in the way correct but.. you only have to loosen 4 nuts on booster to get access remove master from top right and slave from lower end of steering column Do not remove plastic restrainers on slave

 

[JeremyJ]

I'm going to bump this old thread one more time. I used these old posts to help me install my new master/slave setup over the past weekend. The only way I could get the master out was through the wheel well, as suggested a couple of times above. I wanted to add a picture of the bolt that they were talking about removing. It's shown here, toward the center of the picture. I believe it's a 13mm. Once you remove that bolt, you have to grab the lip of that metal wheel well section and pull outward. Pull hard. It'll go back into place easily when you bolt it back together.

Also, be sure to transfer over the plastic washer/spacer piece from your old master cylinder rod, to the new one before installing under the dash. My truck wouldn't start without it. I hope this helps someone in the future.

 

[skipduckhunt]

the most effective way that I could come up with was to use a grinder to cut the bottom bolt off the master cylinder to remove it and I shortened both of the new master cylinder bolts to make it easier for me just make sure to clean up the stud with a file so you can get the nut on without cross threading it...hope this helps someone else out sometime...thanks everyone!

 

[johnny0350]

Why couldn't you just loosen or remove the nuts holding the power brake booster to the firewall, allowing it to move forward away from the firewall, in order to gain enough clearance for the clutch master cylinder bolts, sounds easy. You can remove those nuts and pull the booster off the firewall with the brake master cylinder still attached with no I'll effects, just let it hang there pulled forward and then just put it back on. Most brake boosters are just held on with two nuts, sounds like a non issue and way less work than jacking it up, pulling the wheel, inner wheel well, and crawling around on the ground to remove the sheet metal bolt. Just pull the brake booster forward, why would that be an issue?