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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 1998 Durango with a 5.2L that is leaving an oil drip about the size of a quarter every day or two. A few mechanics have said they think the leak is coming from the rear main seal. I have received quotes anywhere from $450 to $950 to change out the rear main seal. I have also been reading of people having success in stopping small leaks by switching to thicker, high mileage oils (such as Valvoline MaxLife 10W 40) or by using an oil additive such as Bars or Blue Devil Rear Main Sealer.

Anybody have any experience with any of these?

If you stopped your leak, how long has the leak been stopped?

Any adverse consequences?

The Valvoline MaxLife seems like a low risk way to see if the leak will stop with the least possibility for adverse consequences. I currently change the oil myself every 4K miles and use whatever dino oil is on sale.
 

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The Anti-RUB
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1,752 Posts
Contrary to popular belief and marketing literature, you can't fix a leak with a bottle. It will still leak even with thicker oil. Get it fixed right, or learn to live with the leak.

btw, the leak could also be the oil pan.

Good luck...
 

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Mongo lift heavy things..
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385 Posts
I'm not a mechanic and could tell you what I think. Find another mechanic and ask if its the oil pan, don't mention the rear main. Not bashing mech's, hard job, some are good at diagnosing, the others can do the job once diagnosed.

Anyway, what petrock said.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Following up to my OP in case anyone else has a similar leak. After reading around on the internet, I felt safe adding a bottle of AT-205 ([ame]http://www.amazon.com/ATP-AT-205-Re-Seal-Stops-Bottle/dp/B000NVW1LM[/ame]) to my oil. This seemed to slow me oil leak way down over the next few weeks. I then switched my engine oil at the next oil change to Valvoline Next Gen High Mileage ([ame]http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0051RTRCE[/ame]). All of my leaking has completely stopped.

I am not sure if the AT-205 or the oil did the trick.
I am not sure what was leaking (rear main, oil pan, elsewhere?)
And I am not sure how long the leak(s) will stay sealed.

I do know that I have no more oil on my garage floor.

I will put up another post to this thread if leaking resumes down the road.
 

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757 Posts
get under there and look at it...

I had a oil leak, found out my oil pan was rusted, so I cleaned it, burned it, stuck a bolt up in the hole and JB welded it... 2.5 yrs later my redneck fix, still holds :mullet:
 

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Home School Valedictorian
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4,226 Posts
Following up to my OP in case anyone else has a similar leak. After reading around on the internet, I felt safe adding a bottle of AT-205 (http://www.amazon.com/ATP-AT-205-Re-Seal-Stops-Bottle/dp/B000NVW1LM) to my oil. This seemed to slow me oil leak way down over the next few weeks. I then switched my engine oil at the next oil change to Valvoline Next Gen High Mileage (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0051RTRCE). All of my leaking has completely stopped.

I am not sure if the AT-205 or the oil did the trick.
I am not sure what was leaking (rear main, oil pan, elsewhere?)
And I am not sure how long the leak(s) will stay sealed.

I do know that I have no more oil on my garage floor.

I will put up another post to this thread if leaking resumes down the road.
My old winter beater had a slow rear main leak that stopped with the use of "High Mileage" oil.
 

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Registered
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Discussion Starter #7
get under there and look at it...

I had a oil leak, found out my oil pan was rusted, so I cleaned it, burned it, stuck a bolt up in the hole and JB welded it... 2.5 yrs later my redneck fix, still holds :mullet:
I have been underneath many times. My guess on the leak location was either oil pan or rear main seal. I know for sure that a rust hole in the oil pan was not the problem because we are the original owners of the truck and we have lived in the AZ desert as long as we have owned the truck.

Nice redneck repair on your leak, by the way.
 

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Diesel Mechanic
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898 Posts
Id stay away from the mechanic in a bottle junk. Be sure your using proper grade oil, 10w-30. Any lighter it will blow by old seals espessially on hot days. If you cant afford to fix it leave it and check the oil more often. Trying a slightly thicker oil could help a tad in warmer months but might make excessive knock in cold. Fun fact. I tried using 5w-30 last winter in cold months. First hot day we had in spring i had to pull a trailer up some hills. Started dumping oil out my rear main. Changed my oil back to my usual 10w-30 mobil 1 and clean out the bellhousing of oil. Been fine ever since once again, just the usual minor seeps of a high mileage motor. Btw 950 seems very high to replace rear main. It dont take but an hour to pull the tranny and transfercase
 
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