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· 408,R3,Indy Heads,Twin66s
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It's not that bad to get them drilled. You can do it easily if you have a mill or an end mill that will fit into a drill press and a drill press. I've done a set with a drill bit, drill press, and carbide burr, they just weren't as pretty. Machine shop is no problem, just make sure you give them a drum to match up so there is no confusion.

Yes you DO have to pull the axles to remove the backing plates on the GC.

I'm building an R3 408. Once it's up and running it will get boost via turbo. :) You can click on the link in my SIG for my build if you like.
 

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The first cutting operation was done with a cutoff disc on a 4 1/2" angle grinder. I used this to removed the bulk of the flange so that I would not need to do too much grinding. Sorry for the poor picture quality.



Next step was removing the bulk of the flange with a grinding wheel. This was also done with a 4 1/2" angle grinder. This was slow work. I was really being careful not to cut into the axle tube. I got it down to about 1/16 " all the way around before proceeding to the next operation.



I then installed a 40 grit flap disc on my angle grinder to get the flange down to the same thickness as the axle tube itself. The flap disc is far more forgiving than a rigid grinding disc.



I finished the axle tube smoothing with a DA sander starting with 40 grit paper followed by 80 grit and finishing with 120 grit. This allowed me to get the axle back to a somewhat round state.




With all the grinding finished it was now time to set the flanges. I first installed new studs from an 03 durango that I purchased from the dealer. They were about a dollar each. We then tacked them in place at 2" to get an idea of what would be need to get my caliper bracket centered on the rotor. After a few tries we ended up at 1 13/16 for my 03 Durango pieces. This is time consuming in that you need to remove the axle each time you reposition the flange. Flange placement is absolutely critical. If your flange is not perfectly square on your axle tube the brake pads will not make even contact with the rotor. This was the most difficult and time consuming part of this install.

The axle flanges on the Durangos are flipped with one side having the wide pattern at the top and the other having the wide pattern at the bottom.

Once I was convinced that the flanges were square to the axle housing we finish welded them.







We did what we could to minimize warpage by using wet rags to cool between welding passes. The flanges still warped slightly. I needed to tap the studs back into alignment for the backing plates to slide on the axle smoothly.

After getting everything bolted up we checked disc run out when compared to the caliper bracket. Fortunately everything stayed square. Shown below is the completed installation.



This project took me about 12 hours to complete with some help from my friends at H Town Performance in Henderson Nevada. This does not include CNC time or parts running.


I smoothed my calipers and caliper brackets before coating them with VHT caliper paint. The logo outlines were cut from vinyl then spray painted with VHT silver caliper paint. The rotors are Ebay cheapies. I will be curious too see how they hold up, if they warp after the first time I apply my brakes I will be sure to let everyone know!

Now that I am finished I guess the question is was it worth it? To me it was. My rear end was already rebuilt with 392 gears, LSD, and all new bearings. It would have been too expensive to switch everything over to a 03-04 rear axle. With that being said, If I had it to do over again I would have gotten the axle out of the Durango I got the brakes from and built that.

I hope this post comes in handy for those that are contemplating this swap.

If someone would have some rings built about the thickness of the depth difference of the drum axle and the disc axle, we could adapt the Dakota/Durango discs to a Drum brake axle with out cutting or welding, and then use counter suck bolts on adapter rings to screw to existing axle ring, but there would have to be eight holes in each ring with four counter sunk and four with new bolts to attach to disc backing plate, so the discs would not be clocked the same as stock, but it would not be a big deal and if the other four were counter sunk on the flip side, they would work on a Dakota and Durango backing plate just by flipping it over.
 

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It should be noted that I am swapping in a 2003 Durango axle assembly into my 2002 Dakota, the axle assembly is the same with the correct width but the sway bar and leaf spring perches are incorrect, the real deal breaker is the distance between the leafs on the Durango is 1" wider than the Dakota. The axle has no shock mounts and the sway bar perches are all wrong, I had to cut all the perches off the axle, I swapped a 2004 2wd Dakota axle into my 1997 2wd Dakota and it was a piece of cake, the Durango swap is a lot of hassle for a little bigger brakes!


After completing my rear disc installation I decided to post up all of the information I gathered. This post should answer most of the questions asked in regards to converting a drum brake equipped 1997-2004 Dakota/Durango to rear disc. The information has been gathered from my own experience as well as other posters. I used some images from one of 70CUDA383 posts and information from one of Duner posts for Jeep rear disc. Thanks for the info guys!
If anybody has anything to add, post it up and I will edit this thread.

This thread deals with factory rear disc options only and does not deal with any of the aftermarket offerings.

In short, there are no bolt on options for factory rear disc on our drum brake equipped Dakota/Durango's regardless of year of manufacture. All of the options require some kind of modification. Listed below are the options, positives and negatives to each, as well as what is required to make them work.

The absolute best way to swap over to rear disc is to get the complete axle assembly out of an 03-04 Dakota/Durango. If you are swapping from Durango to Dakota or Dakota to Durango the only thing that needs to be changed is the shock mounts. This is a piece of cake when compared to changing the axle flanges.


The primary reason disc brakes will not bolt onto drum brake rear ends without mods is due to the backing plate flange location. The pictures taken by 70CUDA383 show the differences in flange placement.





From these pictures it becomes obvious why the disc brake backing plates will not simply mount onto a drum brake rear end. That leaves us with needing to modify something to make this swap possible.

1. Mid 90's Jeep Grand Cherokee rear disc. This is probably the easiest swap as the Jeep uses the same axle flange location as the drum brake rear ends in our Dakota/Durango's. Duner has completed this swap and had this to say regarding modifications.

Rotors need to be redrilled for the 6-lug bolt pattern.
The center of the backing plate needs to be opened 05" to clear the larger axle tube.
The mounting holes for the backing plate need to be opened up .0625 to mount on the axle flange.
Parking brake cables have not yet been installed but, I can't see that being very difficult.
Rotors on the Jeep are a little bit smaller than what came on the 03-04 Dakota/Durango, they measure 11.2"
These rotors are solid.
This brake setup will fit under 15" wheels.

2. 03-04 Dakota rear disc. The only modification that needs to be done to use these brakes are axle flange relocation. This is not a particularly easy modification. It can be done but it is not fun.

Axle flange needs to be relocated.
Parking brake cables need to be from a vehicle with the same chassis length, they can be found at Rock Auto or obviously the dealer.
The rotors are 12.1" in diameter and are solid.
This setup uses updated single piston rear calipers.
The backing plate has an integrated caliper mount. It is a single piece unit.
This setup requires 16" or larger wheels.





3. 03 Durango rear disc. Like the 03-04 Dakota rear disc the axle flange needs to be relocated. The 03 Durango rear discs share nothing in common with the 03-04 Dakota rear discs.

Axle flange needs to be relocated and flipped on one side.
Parking brake cables need to be from a vehicle with the same chassis length, they can be found at Rock Auto or obviously the dealer.
The rotors are 12.1" in diameter and are ventilated.
This setup uses what appears to be the same caliper that was used on the mid 90's Jeep Grand Cherokee. It is a single piston caliper.
Backing plate and caliper mount are separate pieces.
This setup requires 16" or larger wheels.





The photos below show the differences between the 03-04 Dakota rear rotor and the 03 Durango rear rotor courtesy of Rock Auto. 03-04 Dakota on top with the 03 Durango below.





There may be other options. If you know of any that will work, post them up.

Well after having all this new knowledge if you still want to proceed with swapping your rear drums for discs follow below and I will show how I did it with 03 Durango rear discs.

Before starting you are going to need a pair of these. I cut these on our CNC machine when it became obvious I would need them. They were made from 3/8 plate steel. Trying to remove the factory flanges for reuse is not something I wanted to attempt.



First thing I did was remove the studs. They can be knocked out with a hammer fairly easily. Don't worry about damaging them, they are too short for the disc brakes and will need to be replaced with the proper length stud.
Don't forget to stuff some rags in your axle to protect the bearings.
Below is the stock flange before any work has been started.

 

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So I'm looking into doing the axle swap option since it appears to be the least insane way to go fabrication wise

With that being said I had a few questions. I have a 2wd 2002 Dakota quad car.

1. What would be the better or the two(Dakota/Durango) setups?

2. Which ones have the better gearing and posi/LSD rear end? I'm kind of a newbie to transmissions and gearing so any help finding the best setup and building up a top notch setup before install would be greatly appreciated
 

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I know this is kind of an old post, but I had a thought. are the backing plates between the dak and rango the same? if so, then it'd be easy for anyone already having disc rears to adapt it for vented rotors, all that'd be needed would be the rotors and durango calipers. thats just a theory, I'm working on a rear disc conversion on my 99 R/T, and haven't seen the durango rear disc set up yet.
I have this same question too. I have an 04 4x4 Dakota with rear non-vented disk. I only use my Dakota for towing my boat or for my camper so I could benefit from upgraded brakes. I was wondering about swapping into the 03 Durango vented rear disks.

Wouldn't I just need the rotors, caliper, pads and mount?
 

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I'm in need of the measurements for the backing plate flange. I'm trying to have a set made before I tear the truck down as it is a daily driver. I already have all my parts, but I can't find the bolt pattern anywhere. Also I have found conflicting information on the axle tube flange inside diameter.

I know the post is ancient, but hopefully someone has some info for me. Thanks.
 

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Well I've had the brackets made by a good friend with access to a cnc mill and he is sending two sets.
If they work well I may offer the brackets for sale.
 

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Holly crap I can't believe Photobucket is now holding all the images in this thread hostage. Unreal!!

Guys I was wondering if I could get a little help. I have a 2001 Durango r/t, I'm looking at buying a 2003 and parting it out. I want to add the disc brakes onto my 2001. Will going from a 2003 r/t to 2001 also require modifications?
 

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Hey guys, I've pretty much read all of this thread whew... Anyway but i'm most curious about coming from an 8.25 3.55 97 Dakota RWD rear drums: is it possible to just pull out axle shafts from any of the donor vehicles mentioned here?

Donor options: 90's GC, 03+ Dakota with the same gearing ratio etc to get discs in the rear?

I eventually want to convert to 5 lug bolt pattern but don't have compatible wheels for that right now. Could I get adapters for my 17" RT's just to get by for now?

Until I find the rims that I want?

I'm not sure about best method to convert the front to 5 lug at this time though.

I mostly concerned with the easiest option to get discs in the rear. I don't really want to go the cutting flange off and making a custom flange.

I have seen other forums and threads stating that you just need to pull out the axles with the same gearing ratio and pop them in.
 

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Hey guys, I've pretty much read all of this thread whew... Anyway but i'm most curious about coming from an 8.25 3.55 97 Dakota RWD rear drums: is it possible to just pull out axle shafts from any of the donor vehicles mentioned here?

Donor options: 90's GC, 03+ Dakota with the same gearing ratio etc to get discs in the rear?

I eventually want to convert to 5 lug bolt pattern but don't have compatible wheels for that right now. Could I get adapters for my 17" RT's just to get by for now?

Until I find the rims that I want?

I'm not sure about best method to convert the front to 5 lug at this time though.

I mostly concerned with the easiest option to get discs in the rear. I don't really want to go the cutting flange off and making a custom flange.

I have seen other forums and threads stating that you just need to pull out the axles with the same gearing ratio and pop them in.

Oh by the way I no longer have leaf springs in the rear I have a four link setup with airbags if that makes a difference
 
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