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Anyone ever think about dropping the whole drum-brake parking brake and going to a mechanical caliper? Or even using a brake caliper that functions as both? That's what I'm figuring out, it's easier and lighter.
 

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Anyone ever think about dropping the whole drum-brake parking brake and going to a mechanical caliper? Or even using a brake caliper that functions as both? That's what I'm figuring out, it's easier and lighter.
umm, that's what this entire thread is about :buttkick:
 

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I just did a swap on my Gen 2 from a 98 Jeep Grand Cherokee. $70 for everything at the Picapart.
 

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flanges

any chance you're willing to fabricate more of those flanges you made? I might be interested in purchasing them. How has everything heald up?
any ideas on what you might charge? thanks

After completing my rear disc installation I decided to post up all of the information I gathered. This post should answer most of the questions asked in regards to converting a drum brake equipped 1997-2004 Dakota/Durango to rear disc. The information has been gathered from my own experience as well as other posters. I used some images from one of 70CUDA383 posts and information from one of Duner posts for Jeep rear disc. Thanks for the info guys!
If anybody has anything to add, post it up and I will edit this thread.

This thread deals with factory rear disc options only and does not deal with any of the aftermarket offerings.

In short, there are no bolt on options for factory rear disc on our drum brake equipped Dakota/Durango's regardless of year of manufacture. All of the options require some kind of modification. Listed below are the options, positives and negatives to each, as well as what is required to make them work.

The absolute best way to swap over to rear disc is to get the complete axle assembly out of an 03-04 Dakota/Durango. If you are swapping from Durango to Dakota or Dakota to Durango the only thing that needs to be changed is the shock mounts. This is a piece of cake when compared to changing the axle flanges.

The primary reason disc brakes will not bolt onto drum brake rear ends without mods is due to the backing plate flange location. The pictures taken by 70CUDA383 show the differences in flange placement.





From these pictures it becomes obvious why the disc brake backing plates will not simply mount onto a drum brake rear end. That leaves us with needing to modify something to make this swap possible.

1. Mid 90's Jeep Grand Cherokee rear disc. This is probably the easiest swap as the Jeep uses the same axle flange location as the drum brake rear ends in our Dakota/Durango's. Duner has completed this swap and had this to say regarding modifications.

Rotors need to be redrilled for the 6-lug bolt pattern.
The center of the backing plate needs to be opened 05" to clear the larger axle tube.
The mounting holes for the backing plate need to be opened up .0625 to mount on the axle flange.
Parking brake cables have not yet been installed but, I can't see that being very difficult.
Rotors on the Jeep are a little bit smaller than what came on the 03-04 Dakota/Durango, they measure 11.2"
These rotors are solid.
This brake setup will fit under 15" wheels.

2. 03-04 Dakota rear disc. The only modification that needs to be done to use these brakes are axle flange relocation. This is not a particularly easy modification. It can be done but it is not fun.

Axle flange needs to be relocated.
Parking brake cables need to be from a vehicle with the same chassis length, they can be found at Rock Auto or obviously the dealer.
The rotors are 12.1" in diameter and are solid.
This setup uses updated single piston rear calipers.
The backing plate has an integrated caliper mount. It is a single piece unit.
This setup requires 16" or larger wheels.





3. 03 Durango rear disc. Like the 03-04 Dakota rear disc the axle flange needs to be relocated. The 03 Durango rear discs share nothing in common with the 03-04 Dakota rear discs.

Axle flange needs to be relocated and flipped on one side.
Parking brake cables need to be from a vehicle with the same chassis length, they can be found at Rock Auto or obviously the dealer.
The rotors are 12.1" in diameter and are ventilated.
This setup uses what appears to be the same caliper that was used on the mid 90's Jeep Grand Cherokee. It is a single piston caliper.
Backing plate and caliper mount are separate pieces.
This setup requires 16" or larger wheels.





The photos below show the differences between the 03-04 Dakota rear rotor and the 03 Durango rear rotor courtesy of Rock Auto. 03-04 Dakota on top with the 03 Durango below.





There may be other options. If you know of any that will work, post them up.

Well after having all this new knowledge if you still want to proceed with swapping your rear drums for discs follow below and I will show how I did it with 03 Durango rear discs.

Before starting you are going to need a pair of these. I cut these on our CNC machine when it became obvious I would need them. They were made from 3/8 plate steel. Trying to remove the factory flanges for reuse is not something I wanted to attempt.



First thing I did was remove the studs. They can be knocked out with a hammer fairly easily. Don't worry about damaging them, they are too short for the disc brakes and will need to be replaced with the proper length stud.
Don't forget to stuff some rags in your axle to protect the bearings.
Below is the stock flange before any work has been started.

 

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Ok...I know this thread has been running for a while but I just want to make sure I'm getting my info correct before I pull the trigger on this. Here's what I got:

2000 Dodge Dakota Sport
4x4
Hexagon 12 bolt
9.25" rear diff.
3.55 ratio

My brakes SUCK BAWLS and I have a small, tiny chip in my pinion gear ( that I've had for years but is annoying ). I'd like to do the rear disc swap...from what I gather here I need the following:

2004 COMPLETE rear end ( that matches my gear ratio AND bolt pattern? )

If I'm doing the complete rear end swap is there ANYTHING I need my mechanic to modify? I have aftermarket ProComp steel rims with a wider offset ( cannot remember what the offset is ). Will that help me by not having to worry about clearance issues with the rim? Will I need to modify where the caliper mounts if it's a complete rear end?

I'm about to call a few junkyards in Salt Lake City and I want to make sure I get the correct rear end before I bring it to my mechanic. Unfortunately I don't have a garage to do this nor do I have the time. I read through most of this thread and just want to confirm everything...sorry if it's redundant.

Spankyou.
 

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Discussion Starter · #70 ·
any chance you're willing to fabricate more of those flanges you made? I might be interested in purchasing them. How has everything heald up?
any ideas on what you might charge? thanks
My truck is in a million pieces right now. I am installing a stereo and waiting on my engine so I can't say how well they will hold up. I would expect stock 03 brake performance.
Sorry I don't really have time to make any flanges. I can send you a copy of the CAD file that would allow you to get some made. They aren't difficult at all, any machine shop would be able to cut them.
 

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I forgot about my old thread a few months ago!

http://www.dakota-durango.com/forum/showthread.php?t=84211&page=3

So it seems like my issue is that I have 15" rims....I can't replace those so will grinding make it work with a 15? Anyone?
if you're looking to keep 15" rims, don't bother with an axle swap from an 03 or 04 truck, the brakes are too big for 15" rims, which is why they came out with those ugly ass 16x7" 6 spoke wheels.

if you're willing to swap wheels to 16s or bigger, then yea, the 03/04 axle will bolt in.

if it's from an 03/04 4x4 dakota, it is a bolt in deal, as long as you have the complete parking brake cable to swap as well.

if you have an axle from an 03/04 2wd Dakota, then you need to move the spring mounts to the top of the axle tubes--2wd dakotas are spring under axle, 4x4 dakotas are spring over axle.

if you have an axle from an 03 Durango, you will need to move the spring mounts to the top of the axle tubes--ALL Durangos were spring under axle. you will also have to weld shock mount tabs onto the axle tubes, as the durango's incorporate the shock mount into the axle mounting plates that secure it to the springs.
 

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My truck is in a million pieces right now. I am installing a stereo and waiting on my engine so I can't say how well they will hold up. I would expect stock 03 brake performance.
Sorry I don't really have time to make any flanges. I can send you a copy of the CAD file that would allow you to get some made. They aren't difficult at all, any machine shop would be able to cut them.
you haven't driven your truck since you did the swap? holy crap that was almost a year ago!!!

Mine has held up fine. I put 2,000 miles on it this summer, and I've not had any problems.
 

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I would really appreciate that, any info on the specific material, or type of steel? I'm not so familiar with machining. Thanks I'll get in touch with a local machine shop, and see what they say. Looks like my truck is in for rear disk brakes this spring :mullet:

My truck is in a million pieces right now. I am installing a stereo and waiting on my engine so I can't say how well they will hold up. I would expect stock 03 brake performance.
Sorry I don't really have time to make any flanges. I can send you a copy of the CAD file that would allow you to get some made. They aren't difficult at all, any machine shop would be able to cut them.
 

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Well, I guess I'll have to deal with my shitty brakes. I can't spend the money on new rims and tires at the moment. I had to lock up my brakes about a month ago while I was doing 45mph because a guy cut me off in an intersection and they worked...
 

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Well, I guess I'll have to deal with my shitty brakes. I can't spend the money on new rims and tires at the moment. I had to lock up my brakes about a month ago while I was doing 45mph because a guy cut me off in an intersection and they worked...
yea, for 1 time panic stops--if you can lock up your brakes now, going bigger won't make you stop any faster! you can only stop as fast as your tires allow.

where brake upgrades help is when you're towing or hauling heavy loads, and you need more brake energy to stop the truck due to the additional weight, the larger brakes allow for more braking and better head dissipation, as well as with spirited driving where you might be on the brakes hard several times in quick succession, and the larger brakes again, will dissipate heat faster, delaying or preventing brake fade due to heat.

with drums, you get 2, maybe 3 panic stops before they're too hot and won't work anymore.

that's ok for normal street driving though, one good panic stop is all you really need--how often do you have a short bus full of little kids pull out in front of you forcing you to slam on the brakes? if that happens twice in a row, then you need to go help an old lady across the street, or go serve food at the local soup kitchen...do anything to improve your Karma before you total your truck!

but if you weight down your truck with cargo or tow a lot, or like to auto-x your truck (even if it's not an official SCCA event or at a track:D) then you should consider brake upgrades.
 

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Discussion Starter · #76 ·
Disc brakes

you haven't driven your truck since you did the swap? holy crap that was almost a year ago!!!

Mine has held up fine. I put 2,000 miles on it this summer, and I've not had any problems.
I spent the spring building an engine for my boat and the summer on the lake. Didn't have much time for my truck. I have gotten back on it the last couple weeks. Currently in the middle of a stereo install. Installed power windows, door locks, mirrors, overhead console, tilt column and Nissan 350 Z bucket seats. Truck is making headway but it will probably be summer before I drive it. Then it goes away for a month or so for paint. Oh well.
 

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So in the first pic in the first post there is 3/4" difference between the mounting flanges?
 
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