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Rear Disc Installation

74667 Views 116 Replies 48 Participants Last post by  GladePlugIn
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After completing my rear disc installation I decided to post up all of the information I gathered. This post should answer most of the questions asked in regards to converting a drum brake equipped 1997-2004 Dakota/Durango to rear disc. The information has been gathered from my own experience as well as other posters. I used some images from one of 70CUDA383 posts and information from one of Duner posts for Jeep rear disc. Thanks for the info guys!
If anybody has anything to add, post it up and I will edit this thread.

This thread deals with factory rear disc options only and does not deal with any of the aftermarket offerings.

In short, there are no bolt on options for factory rear disc on our drum brake equipped Dakota/Durango's regardless of year of manufacture. All of the options require some kind of modification. Listed below are the options, positives and negatives to each, as well as what is required to make them work.

The absolute best way to swap over to rear disc is to get the complete axle assembly out of an 03-04 Dakota/Durango. If you are swapping from Durango to Dakota or Dakota to Durango the only thing that needs to be changed is the shock mounts. This is a piece of cake when compared to changing the axle flanges.

The primary reason disc brakes will not bolt onto drum brake rear ends without mods is due to the backing plate flange location. The pictures taken by 70CUDA383 show the differences in flange placement.





From these pictures it becomes obvious why the disc brake backing plates will not simply mount onto a drum brake rear end. That leaves us with needing to modify something to make this swap possible.

1. Mid 90's Jeep Grand Cherokee rear disc. This is probably the easiest swap as the Jeep uses the same axle flange location as the drum brake rear ends in our Dakota/Durango's. Duner has completed this swap and had this to say regarding modifications.

Rotors need to be redrilled for the 6-lug bolt pattern.
The center of the backing plate needs to be opened 05" to clear the larger axle tube.
The mounting holes for the backing plate need to be opened up .0625 to mount on the axle flange.
Parking brake cables have not yet been installed but, I can't see that being very difficult.
Rotors on the Jeep are a little bit smaller than what came on the 03-04 Dakota/Durango, they measure 11.2"
These rotors are solid.
This brake setup will fit under 15" wheels.

2. 03-04 Dakota rear disc. The only modification that needs to be done to use these brakes are axle flange relocation. This is not a particularly easy modification. It can be done but it is not fun.

Axle flange needs to be relocated.
Parking brake cables need to be from a vehicle with the same chassis length, they can be found at Rock Auto or obviously the dealer.
The rotors are 12.1" in diameter and are solid.
This setup uses updated single piston rear calipers.
The backing plate has an integrated caliper mount. It is a single piece unit.
This setup requires 16" or larger wheels.





3. 03 Durango rear disc. Like the 03-04 Dakota rear disc the axle flange needs to be relocated. The 03 Durango rear discs share nothing in common with the 03-04 Dakota rear discs.

Axle flange needs to be relocated and flipped on one side.
Parking brake cables need to be from a vehicle with the same chassis length, they can be found at Rock Auto or obviously the dealer.
The rotors are 12.1" in diameter and are ventilated.
This setup uses what appears to be the same caliper that was used on the mid 90's Jeep Grand Cherokee. It is a single piston caliper.
Backing plate and caliper mount are separate pieces.
This setup requires 16" or larger wheels.





The photos below show the differences between the 03-04 Dakota rear rotor and the 03 Durango rear rotor courtesy of Rock Auto. 03-04 Dakota on top with the 03 Durango below.





There may be other options. If you know of any that will work, post them up.

Well after having all this new knowledge if you still want to proceed with swapping your rear drums for discs follow below and I will show how I did it with 03 Durango rear discs.

Before starting you are going to need a pair of these. I cut these on our CNC machine when it became obvious I would need them. They were made from 3/8 plate steel. Trying to remove the factory flanges for reuse is not something I wanted to attempt.



First thing I did was remove the studs. They can be knocked out with a hammer fairly easily. Don't worry about damaging them, they are too short for the disc brakes and will need to be replaced with the proper length stud.
Don't forget to stuff some rags in your axle to protect the bearings.
Below is the stock flange before any work has been started.

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i found an 03 dak at one of my junk yards and was told 500-800 for them to pull it. of course it was sitting in the mud. gotto remember too its supply and demand I paid 400 last year for just a rear end for a blazer. IMO i kinda wish i had just left the drum brakes alone then i would have any issues with my rears
I used the 03 Durango parts. I got the front and rear for $800 which also included the front differential/axles. I wanted to lower my gear ratio because I have 20"s with over size tires and 3:55s. I tried to find an 03 Dakota 9.25 with 3:92s and limited slip but wasn't able to find one. The durango rear was a little more work, since my truck is a 4WD I had to flip the spring perches and cut my shock mounts off the old axle. For the emergency brake cable, I used the Durango LH cable and my old RH cable since the Durago RH cable wasn't the right length. I had to modify the end by making a clevis. The 2 sides of course didn't match up so I cut the LH cable and used a cable stop tool to put a new end on it. The rear is all done, Now time to get started on the front.

I bought these rotors/pads, hope they work as well as they look.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...l1313&_nkw=390046137931&_sacat=&_fvi=1&_rdc=1
No. I paid $200 for the complete rear suspension--axle, shocks, springs, sway bar...

$500 for a complete axle is a joke. most junk yards only charge $300 for the whole deal, and if you can find a you-pull-it, you can get the parts cheaper.

for $500 I'd pass...or swap out the entire axle, but in my case, I couldn't do that, the axle I bought was only an 8.25, and I need the 9.25 for my power levels.

you can buy brand new stock rotors for like $60 each, and new calipers for like $80 each, or $30 if you have a core exchange, so the only thing you really need is the caliper mounting bracket on the axle, because I think that's either a dealership only item, or not available, parts stores definitly won't have it. so for $500, you're paying $280 for the brake components, and $230 for the brackets.
that's what i thought. $500 is just a bit much for a rear end. i've been tempted to just take the rear brake parts and try and fit them but i'm just afraid that it may not be a bolt on affair and end up having my truck down for a few days.
if you get the complete diff from the recyclers see if you can sell them your old rear end or pay for the convenience for a complete bolt in and sell your old rear end to someone else
has anyone done the 03+ axle swap? curoius about the abs sensor are they the same? what about the u joint not all of them are the same?
has anyone done the 03+ axle swap? curoius about the abs sensor are they the same? what about the u joint not all of them are the same?
I did the O3 Durango axle swap, There's no rear ABS so it's not an issue. If you use a durango axle for a 4WD Dakota, you'll need to cut the spring perches off and weld them on the other side. Also you'll need to weld on shock mounts.
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Here's some pics of 03 durango brakes installed on my 2000 Dakota 4WD.

Everything installed easy enough. I used a Durango rear axle which required some modifying since the spring perches were on the wrong side of the axle. I also had to remove the shock mounts from my old axle and weld them onto the durango axle as there were none on it. The durango sway bar was slightly different than the dakota so it required a little modifying. The durango spindles went right into place of the old ones with no problems.

What really had me scratching my head was the emergency brake cable. I could have tried to find a new one which was the right length but I had the old drum cables and the new disc cables already. I decided to try and find a way to use them. My solution for hooking up the emergency brake cable was to use the durango LH cable and the dakota RH cable. The LH cables were both about the same length but the disc brake cable had a metal sleeve which was bent to angle the cable away from the tire. The RH durango cable was much too long so I used the old cable. The problem using the old cables is that the durango cables have an S shaped end and the dakota cables have a stop. I made a clevis out of 1\8" x 3\4" flat bar for the RH side. You can just buy one but I couldn't find a suitable one locally. The cables ended up being slightly different lengths than the original. I was able to take up the difference in the RH cable with the adjuster but the LH cable was about an inch too long. Using a cable stop tool I cut and crimped a new stop on the front end of the LH cable.




Here's some other pics of the finished swap

Front:




Rear:


How they look behind my 20" KMC Stealth wheels:

Front:




Rear:
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update to my swap:

I was able to use the entire parking brake assembly from the 03/04 dakota to go with my new rear disc brakes. that metal sleeve you mentioned was a bitch, as it puts my cable almost into a bind, but it seems to be working ok for now.

the older trucks had a bracket welded to the frame. the newer trucks have a bracket bolted to the frame and an under brace for the bed. I cut my old one off, and drilled a hole to bolt the new on onto the frame.

I then replaced the ENTIRE CABLE all the way up to the parking brake cable. it's working ok for now, a bit loose, but working fine for parking. I may try to take some of the slack out so I have a better "Emergency" brake if the need ever arises.


finally got the rest of my mods done as well to the dakota, and took it for a drive. it's stopping great so far, no squeeks, squeels, shimmys, vibrations...very nice and smooth. and it looks so much better than the ugly drums! (mine are the ones with the red painted calipers...eh, I know...a bit over-done, but then again, I have a red truck, so I can say I painted them body color, not "high performance red":jester:
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has anyone ever considered the SSBC kit? it is a bit pricey, but i would trust it......
I've had one on my '01 for about 80K miles now. It made a bigger difference than I thought. Real solid, smooth braking. Adjusting the emergency brake was the only real issue. I was lucky enough $$ :woot: to buy the kit from a '97 owner who bought a '03 before ever installing the kit. The conversion comes in handy on The Dragon ( www.tailofthedragon.com www.dealsgap.com ) with 318 curves in 11 miles. I have more rear braking because of the Snugtop and about 200 pounds of work cargo typically. The one step I skipped in the SSBC instructions was that I left the master cylinder OEM/no change.
Looks like a fun road...quickly scanning the link you posted, do they shut down the road for "events" so folks can go play and be safe while doing so? lot of the pictures made it seem that way.
Looks like a fun road...quickly scanning the link you posted, do they shut down the road for "events" so folks can go play and be safe while doing so? lot of the pictures made it seem that way.
Unfortunately, no. Most drivers scope out the LEO's locations and hammer certain sections, at their own risk. The biggest gathering, I think, is the Mini Cooper bunch in April with up to 300 cars. I tried to host an event in Oct. 2007, but the THP had a sting operation going on at the time prompted by 4 motorcycle deaths that Spring. Things have calmed down considerably since then. Search for my old post: Dakotas on the Dragon, or the ton of Youtube vids with "Dragon 129" in the title. See the whole lap on "Tail of the Dragon Deals Gap".
Unfortunately, no. Most drivers scope out the LEO's locations and hammer certain sections, at their own risk. The biggest gathering, I think, is the Mini Cooper bunch in April with up to 300 cars. I tried to host an event in Oct. 2007, but the THP had a sting operation going on at the time prompted by 4 motorcycle deaths that Spring. Things have calmed down considerably since then. Search for my old post: Dakotas on the Dragon, or the ton of Youtube vids with "Dragon 129" in the title. See the whole lap on "Tail of the Dragon Deals Gap".

Looks like they should. they could turn it into a tax revenue as well. shut the road down 1 saturday a month and charge folks $15 to make a pass on the road. they could keep a few mounties along the road and loosly enforce a speed limit so you don't get idiots thinking "it's a closed road, with no traffic i can go as fast as I want" and killing themselves in a single car accident.
Is there any other way to convert the rear brakes to disk than an axle swap? I don't have all of the neccesary tools to do this myself, how much do you think it would cost to have a mechanic do this?
the easiest way is to swap the entire axle, but then you have to deal with the different yokes on the pinion, and worry about screwing up your crush sleeve and pinion bearing pre-load.

where at in Ohio is cannfield?

I could do to your truck, exactly what I did to mine, but you'd be without the truck for a week or 2, since i'd be doing it in my spare time. I'd charge you a LOT less than any mechanic shop would!

you bring me the parts and I'll do the work!
Isn't the durango rear axle a little longer that the dakota rear axle for those who wanted to swap a durango rear end in a dakota?
I swapped a 2003 4x4 durango rear axle with a 2000 4x4 Dakota and they were the same except for spring perches and sway bar mounts. I ended up just using the durango sway bar which is a little heavier.
GREAT INFO!! Other then crappy stock transmissions my only beef with my durango is the crappy brakes. Definatly will be doing these upgrades!!
Nice job

Those look great, but what is really interesting is the Grand Cherokee conversion. I noticed on the SSBC rear conversion that they use a 11.25" 6 hole rotor, it sounds too good to be true, but could there be a chance that this would work with the Grand Cherokee parts to make a true bolt on conversion. Anyone tried it?
Those look great, but what is really interesting is the Grand Cherokee conversion. I noticed on the SSBC rear conversion that they use a 11.25" 6 hole rotor, it sounds too good to be true, but could there be a chance that this would work with the Grand Cherokee parts to make a true bolt on conversion. Anyone tried it?
I used '94 Grand Cherokee parts on my '99 Dakota. It was almost a bolt on deal. On the backing plates I had to open up the center hole for the slightly larger axle tube, and open up the mounting holes as well. All of the centers are correct, just needed slightly larger openings. I used my drums as a template to drill the 6-lug into the 5-lug hat. All in all it was an easy swap.

I haven't completed the parking brake portion yet, but plan to in the future. Since it's an automatic, I couldn't tell you when the last time I even thought about using the parking brake anyway - so it really hasn't been a concern.

No issues with messing with the proportioning valve or anything like that. It all works and the truck stops great!
Jeep Brakes

Thanks, thats a help. want to keep capability to use 15" wheela for winter tires. Dave
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