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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
well things with the tank didnt turn out as planned so i kind of turned it into a fuel cell.

i threaded and plugged the original fill and breather tubes. Then added a bolt on fill neck which actually allowed me to put an extra additinal 3 gallons in the tank bringing capacity to a whopping 26 gals of fuel. needless to say it cost 100$ to fill it.

also with the tank full it rides way better and sits about 3/4" to 1" lower or id say more level.
Boom

 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Motor is in and the first carnation of my dakota RIPS!

My laptop is fried so I'll have to up date today from my iPhone.
Anyhow I did a little porting of the crap iron heads while I had them off.

As for Porting, I just cut back valve bosses and bowl defects of both intake and exhaust. Then Went ahead and cut back the push rod clearance areas in the intake runners.

Cam is a comp cams 20-608-9 I believe it's 480/480lift 254/265 duration and yes I'm stretching the factory springs an additional 0.07" over the factory 1998 360 cam should be fine for the rest of summer. And I must say this cam has a real nice lope to it.

Heat Wrapped the headers, turns out 50' x 2" roll is just enough. And to be honest I'm fairly certain my engine bay temps are cooler the they where with the factory v6 cast manifolds.
Merged the collectors to the y pipes with true 2.5" vbands.ss

Had the 4bbl m1 powder coated. It was free at my local high school but a student messed up and made it midnight metallic blue instead of metallic blue.. It's dark as shit.

Exhaust.
Bought 2 180° mandrel bends 2.5" for the y pipe and a 2.5" to 3" merge collector for the actual y. And the reason I used 3" is because I plan on building a monster rear mount turbo hopefully an hx40. From what I understand about air flow characteristics this is the most important part of the exhaust after the header primary tube length.
For now I Ran 3" 2 ft back to a spintech super pro 6000.
Then used an awesome flowmaster 3" tail pipe kit it latterly fit perfect and is a really high quality piece. The best part is it was only 70$ shipped and it's fully mandrel. 3" is usually around 7$ a foot unbent. Plus this kit allowed the perfect radius bends for me to go around the 23gal rear mounted monster tank and between the Leif spring.
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 · (Edited)
Also I didn't measure the height before and after the swap but it looks to have sank 3/4"
I need rear rt springs people. Turbo kit build will start next month when the machine shop opens back up school.
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
More goodies scored from the classifieds and rock auto!!
A full set of energy suspension polys, upper balljoints and a locking fuel door for my rear tank mount!!
box of goodies ready for powder!!




 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
My buddy gave me a set of caltrax bushing for the 2nd gen dakota! So over the last few weeks ive been picking away at my own traction bar design (we have a pretty awesome machine shop at my school) today i had the chance to cut them out on the CNC plasma. i still have to drill cam and eye-loop plate for the proper size hyme joints and spring bushings


i decided to make the parts as light a possible and also cut out the spring plates for the 9.25 swap i plan to do later.



 

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Discussion Starter · #28 · (Edited)
Made some more time this week!! finished the front cam plates and rear hyme eye loops for the traction. Plus made another spring bushing on the lath. i still need a set of rt Leif springs and a 9.25 rearend(or cheap lsd for my 8.25)









 

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Discussion Starter · #30 · (Edited)
thanks! long tubes would be sweet but i went with the shorties because i planed on building a turbo set up. Here is a clip of me running the truck without a tune. what torque? haha

 

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thanks! long tubes would be sweet but i went with the shorties because i planed on building a turbo set up. Here is a clip of me running the truck without a tune. what torque? haha

That is what the turbo is for silly! Turbo is the way to go on these trucks now that tuning is easier ten years ago it was unheard of a turbo dakota. It takes so much to make a naturally aspirated V8 magnum put down good numbers. People spend thousands just to put down 300rwhp without boost. Nice. BTW just noticed we both have the same last name hayden, and both live in MI! haha
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
alright guys ive been stupid busy with work and school but here is some of the up dates on the dakota parts ive been working on.

Wrinkle powder coat on the upper control arms SS single stage on the acc bracket.


here is a shifter i designed. it will be cut out of 6061 aluminum on the CNC Haas when i get a fee min. monday i may cut one out of wood and test fit it.

 

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Hey man. I just built a motor and I was trying to find head studs like you have on your motor. I ended up with ARP head bolts, but ive got a 76mm turbo that's going on in the future and I really want head studs. I was unable to find the exact ones for a magnum. any way you could get me a part number?
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 · (Edited)
Hey man. I just built a motor and I was trying to find head studs like you have on your motor. I ended up with ARP head bolts, but ive got a 76mm turbo that's going on in the future and I really want head studs. I was unable to find the exact ones for a magnum. any way you could get me a part number?
i used the ARP Pro Series Cylinder Head Stud Kits 144-4003 http://www.summitracing.com/parts/arp-144-4003/applications

i also plan on running a single turbo as well. but first i need to order MS PRO and finish my suspension tweaks.
:mullet:
:mullet:
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
topped off the tank swap with a locking fuel door.



shifter half cut from billet aluminum 6061 still need to finish the part.

 

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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
here are some updates on the dakota still lots of parts brewing in my mind to build on the CNC mill

Finally Tuned by Flyin Ryan hogan

















before it was tuned i had a little burnout fun
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· "I WANNA GO FAST!"
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Dude that thing sounds freaking MEAN! Love it dude. Best sounding 318 I have heard in a while. What all do you have on that thing? I saw you have JBA headers that you put V-Bands on, was that for better sealing? I have a gasket leak on my driver's side collector.

I have the JBA Cat4ward shorties and y pipes on my 318, no cat (downstream/post cat O2 zip-tied in the frame rail), into a 3inch inlet Magnaflow with dual 2.5inch outlets and tailpipes with 3.5inch tips.





 
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