Motor is in and the first carnation of my dakota RIPS!
My laptop is fried so I'll have to up date today from my iPhone.
Anyhow I did a little porting of the crap iron heads while I had them off.
As for Porting, I just cut back valve bosses and bowl defects of both intake and exhaust. Then Went ahead and cut back the push rod clearance areas in the intake runners.
Cam is a comp cams 20-608-9 I believe it's 480/480lift 254/265 duration and yes I'm stretching the factory springs an additional 0.07" over the factory 1998 360 cam should be fine for the rest of summer. And I must say this cam has a real nice lope to it.
Heat Wrapped the headers, turns out 50' x 2" roll is just enough. And to be honest I'm fairly certain my engine bay temps are cooler the they where with the factory v6 cast manifolds.
Merged the collectors to the y pipes with true 2.5" vbands.ss
Had the 4bbl m1 powder coated. It was free at my local high school but a student messed up and made it midnight metallic blue instead of metallic blue.. It's dark as shit.
Exhaust.
Bought 2 180° mandrel bends 2.5" for the y pipe and a 2.5" to 3" merge collector for the actual y. And the reason I used 3" is because I plan on building a monster rear mount turbo hopefully an hx40. From what I understand about air flow characteristics this is the most important part of the exhaust after the header primary tube length.
For now I Ran 3" 2 ft back to a spintech super pro 6000.
Then used an awesome flowmaster 3" tail pipe kit it latterly fit perfect and is a really high quality piece. The best part is it was only 70$ shipped and it's fully mandrel. 3" is usually around 7$ a foot unbent. Plus this kit allowed the perfect radius bends for me to go around the 23gal rear mounted monster tank and between the Leif spring.