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Hi all, my radiator started to leak and since I tow occasionally I wanted to see what upgrades were available. I came across a few threads that mentioned**Valeo 732622 or CSF 3516 radiator. The valeo one is two rows which is the better option but can't seem to find it in stock anywhere. I found a site that shows 2AMR2294AA as the Valeo Mopar exchange number but after looking at a few online they don't look thicker. Wondering if anyone had any suggestion on a better radiator for someone who tows and/or if the mopar cross reference is correct?
 

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1988 Dodge Dakota LWB RC 3.9V6 3 speed auto
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Personal experience? Don't buy the Spectra Premium version.

I went through two on my Cougar (and the second one blew in such a way it killed the motor since I couldn't just pull over and stop!) and I'm on my second one on the Dakota (and IT leaks!) Both the Dakota ones are within the past year.

RwP
 

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Personal experience? Don't buy the Spectra Premium version.

I went through two on my Cougar (and the second one blew in such a way it killed the motor since I couldn't just pull over and stop!) and I'm on my second one on the Dakota (and IT leaks!) Both the Dakota ones are within the past year.

RwP
Thanks for sharing that Ralph. I have used them for one of my other cars and its still ok but its on a 4 cylinder. I think at rockauto it says they have a 3 year warranty. THe width on them is 1.25 which is stock.
 

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Hi, I'd buy the Valeo (factory OEM) radiator. Don't be afraid of the factory OEM thickness. Don't focus on the number of rows or trying to find one thicker than stock. I was a part of the team that tested the OEM cooling system. The factory cooling system is capable of long hauls up steep grades with full loads in the desert Southwest. Focus more on the air flow. The factory fan and shroud should be good, as long as the fan/clutch is still working. What year and engine do you have?
 

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I also did testing for M)_AR in the 60's and early 70's
One test up the Baker grade in stop and go showed overheating
cause was tailwind was faster thanthe traffic and hot air was recirculating
answer was valance/spoiler

Now of the Durango
I have a 92 Dakota V8 with trailer tow option
there was a service bulletin which raised the temp of the clutch fan actuation and went from a 7 blade 3" pitch fan to a 9 blade 2 1/2 pitch fan moved more air and much less noise
GM has a plastic 11 blade fan I'm going to try (serpentine rotation)
After a minor front end sidewipe I rebuilt with a radiator from a 73 440 New Yorker wagon with trailer tow-4 rows and more frontal area
sealed up the core support and bigger spoiler works better up Ridge route or Baker Grade on road to Vegas in the summer-towing boat or horse trailer
stock only works if you are moving above about 30 mph otherwise you might have to shut your AC off and trannies get hot in up hill stop and go (like when there is an accident)

Another hint is that 134 is not nearly as efficient as R12 so I rebuilt with condenser from Dual Air Van
Also if you ever have your vehicle on chassis dino- like at smog check try a big shop fan and see how much the discharge temp drops
I have a pusher fan that cuts off at 28 mph using the spedo adapter from a 73 400 smog controller and some relays muchmore cold air in stop and go traffic and the mechanical fan almost never comes on- you know- the one that sounds like a jet engine.
I run a 100 plate and fin Borg Warner tranny cooler with half inch in and out and half inch lines.
Try gauges on your tranny cooling system and see how much the backpressure drops with half inch (diesel size) lines
I have the straight cut diesel gear set in my early OD trans so no problem with thrust washers in 300,000 miles- first set with the stock gears lasted about 40K
your later trans has a shallower helix than my OEM 22 degree
I plumbed a filter in the tranny cooler line between he converter and cooler- If I loose a converter I do not plug the cooler- they can't be flushed
 
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