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Ugliest Truck on here!!!
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Im sure this has been asked But Ill be damned if I can find it in search.

Im about to start scuffing down my paint then shooting it with a rattle can black.

I was told before to scuff it with red scotch bright and some scuffing compond. Check got that waiting on slightly warmer temps.

Ive shot body panels before with rattle can just to cover and prevent rust and it looked like ass. No runs or anything jsut not smooth.

what is the proper steps when wet sanding?

What grit do you start with?
What grit do you move up to and when?
How much water do you use?


Thanks :)
 

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Pre-Teen Giggle Brigade
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it all depends. is it metal? do you want to go down to bare metal?

if you want to just scuff it lightly and smooth it out you could use a red scotchbrite pad and always keep water on it, i use soapy water, other people just use water. its up to you.

if you are going to be sanding and want a smooth finish its best to use a blocking pad so you sand it and then remove the paper and "block" it to remove water easier to see trouble areas better.


if your like tinting taillights or re-clearing them, use this method.

if you are using just your fingers you will want to try not to leave finger streaks in the sanding as it might show when you are done painting.
 

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Pre-Teen Giggle Brigade
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and i always sand untill there is no gloss to what i am sanding. this is the way you are "supposed" to do it.
 

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Ugliest Truck on here!!!
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Discussion Starter #5
:forehead: google whoda thunk it.
 

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if your just wanting to get the clear coat off and spray over the existing paint get some red scotch bright pads and a buffer/sander with a velcro disc, stick the scotch bright pad to the velcro. this is cut down on your sanding time by a lot. this is what i do when spraying cars, unless i must go to bare metal.
 

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First step, before you do anything is to remove ALL the wax from the surface.

If you don't, the sanding will only rub the wax deeper into the paint...
 

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ಠ_ಠ ლ(ಠ益ಠ&#
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I swear I wrote how to do this in a few threads if not compleatly in one then parts in a few. Look for it, im tierd of answering the same question.

here I go again.

It depends on how good a job you want to do. Wet sanding is usualy fast but even if I were going to paint it with a rattle can (and I cringe at the thought) I would fully prime it.

If you are going to put the work into anything like this dont do it halfassed go all the way and spend the extra few $$ on a simple gravity gun and ask a friend to borrow a compressor or buy one as they come in handy.

I hate to see trucks that look decent from 20' away but when you get close it looks like ass.

If you are doing the whole truck get the compressor and a DA or borrow one your arms will thank you when you (if you choose to sand the primer).

Start with 200-300 grit dry sanding rinse it all then pretty much wash it EVERY INCH with 700-1000 your choice then step up to 2000.

If you prime it drysand fast wetsand with 700 then prime it, after wetsand and block sand it. then paint sand paint (could do this forever if you want.

If you want it to last (im assuming you got a cheep gun and compressor) after you sand it clear it. sand it clear it.

I say go make friends with a few of the guys or boss of a small local body shop and just watch. They will also sell you paint primer paper and clear. Atleast mine did but my boss was crazy and cool but more crazy.
 
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