Power door locks
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What :huh:
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So let me get this straight.. The key fob arms the security system, but doesn't lock OR unlock. However, the switch in the truck can unlock the truck, but not lock it?
What kind of security system are you running? Are you using a stock key fob, or the security system one? Can you open the door panel and hook up a multimeter to the switch and/or actuator to test it?
If the switch is good and the actuator is good, it sounds like a botched security system install. Maybe a failed wire tap-in.
What kind of security system are you running? Are you using a stock key fob, or the security system one? Can you open the door panel and hook up a multimeter to the switch and/or actuator to test it?
If the switch is good and the actuator is good, it sounds like a botched security system install. Maybe a failed wire tap-in.
You mean 'lock', not 'unlock right? His problem is when locking, not unlocking. However, for comparison, I would check both.
Also, just to clarify, its the drivers door panel. Second step would be to check if there is power going to the switch in the door. Third would be to check for continuity as well as power on one side of the switch to the other when in the lock position. Fourth would be to get a factory service manual with its handy electrical diagrams to help trace the wiring harness through to the CTM (i think thats what controls the locks, but I could be wrong) and up to the battery etc.
Its fairly simple. Just takes some patience and a good multi-meter. My guess is that its the switch itself.
So I can't sleep, I like reading circuit diagrams, and I'm weird like that... I did some digging in my FSM ('03 Durango) which should be fairly similar if not the same wiring as yours (I know its the same switch and lock actuator at least)...
It is the CTM that the circuit goes through. :banana2:
The lock actuators work based on which direction the power is flowing into them (like a water wheel). In the drivers door lock actuator it will have an 18 gauge dark blue wire and an 18 gauge orange & black wire going into it. During 'unlock' the dark blue wire should have power and the orange & black wire should have ground. During 'lock' the dark blue wire has ground and the orange and black wire has power. In both cases, power is 12 volts. A more conclusive test that the actuator is working properly would be to swap the wires. Plug the dark blue wire in where the orange & black is, and plug the orange & black where the dark blue wire was. Then try to 'unlock' via the door switch. The drivers door should lock in this case, while the other doors should unlock. Make sure to put the wires back where they were when your done with this test, btw.
If the above test checks out, next test the switch. The switch tells the CTM what position it is in (lock/unlock/neutral) by how much resistance it applies to the CTM's signal. In other words, how many volts/current goes in one side compared to coming out the other. You can test the switch by disconnecting it from the wiring harness and testing pin 7 (20 gauge white & dark green wire) and pin 11 (20 gauge black & light green wire) in connector 1 (the one with 12 pins in it) for resistance in lock/unlock/neutral. It should be 10k ohms, 820 ohms and 320 ohms in neutral, lock and unlock positions respectively (+/- 1%). A good muti-meter should be able to do this easily.
If all that checks out, disconnect each lock actuator one at a time (including the one in the lift gate) and recheck if everything locks/unlocks from the drivers door switch. A shorted lock actuator can throw the entire circuit out of whack since they are all connected, but I would think it would make the circuit completely fail, not fail in only one direction. But stranger things have happened in circuitry.
If all that checks out, I would suspect a short between one of the lock actuators and the CTM (let me know if you need help with that) or in a worst case the CTM may be bad.
btw, do any of the other door lock switches lock/unlock that door or do they only unlock too? What about if you put the key in the drivers door lock and turn it twice in a row in either direction?
Also, you are doing all this with the key not in the ignition and the headlights off, aren't you? The CTM won't let you lock your keys in your car, or leave the lights on in a locked car that easily. :woot:
It is the CTM that the circuit goes through. :banana2:
The lock actuators work based on which direction the power is flowing into them (like a water wheel). In the drivers door lock actuator it will have an 18 gauge dark blue wire and an 18 gauge orange & black wire going into it. During 'unlock' the dark blue wire should have power and the orange & black wire should have ground. During 'lock' the dark blue wire has ground and the orange and black wire has power. In both cases, power is 12 volts. A more conclusive test that the actuator is working properly would be to swap the wires. Plug the dark blue wire in where the orange & black is, and plug the orange & black where the dark blue wire was. Then try to 'unlock' via the door switch. The drivers door should lock in this case, while the other doors should unlock. Make sure to put the wires back where they were when your done with this test, btw.
If the above test checks out, next test the switch. The switch tells the CTM what position it is in (lock/unlock/neutral) by how much resistance it applies to the CTM's signal. In other words, how many volts/current goes in one side compared to coming out the other. You can test the switch by disconnecting it from the wiring harness and testing pin 7 (20 gauge white & dark green wire) and pin 11 (20 gauge black & light green wire) in connector 1 (the one with 12 pins in it) for resistance in lock/unlock/neutral. It should be 10k ohms, 820 ohms and 320 ohms in neutral, lock and unlock positions respectively (+/- 1%). A good muti-meter should be able to do this easily.
If all that checks out, disconnect each lock actuator one at a time (including the one in the lift gate) and recheck if everything locks/unlocks from the drivers door switch. A shorted lock actuator can throw the entire circuit out of whack since they are all connected, but I would think it would make the circuit completely fail, not fail in only one direction. But stranger things have happened in circuitry.
If all that checks out, I would suspect a short between one of the lock actuators and the CTM (let me know if you need help with that) or in a worst case the CTM may be bad.
btw, do any of the other door lock switches lock/unlock that door or do they only unlock too? What about if you put the key in the drivers door lock and turn it twice in a row in either direction?
Also, you are doing all this with the key not in the ignition and the headlights off, aren't you? The CTM won't let you lock your keys in your car, or leave the lights on in a locked car that easily. :woot:
Yep...
And lets keep this simple...just get a dam test light and check the wires at the lock actuator no need to go swapping wires and whatnot...if you have power and ground when you are supposed to the actuator is bad
Heh… Trying to be thorough, especially for those that may be having a similar problem.
True, but the problem may not be the drivers door actuator. It could be any of them. Thats the crappy part about diagnosing a door lock problem.
I know this is an old thread but, I'm hoping to get an answer to a similar problem. My 2001 Durango will lock all doors and unlock all doors except the driver's side front door. I replaced the actuator in the drivers door thinking this was the problem and it did not fix the problem. Door lock switch on the drivers door does the same thing. I tested the power going to the plug that plugs in to the actuator in the drivers door and discovered that when switched with the remote that the red wire does not show power going to it. The other wire (forget color) shows a spike in power up to 11.xx volts while red wire shows about .2xx spike or negligible. There's obviously not enough power going to it to power the lock open. How do I fix this? Where does this set of wires go from the plug? I see that it looks like it follows out of the door and through the door jam but beyond that, I can't see where it goes or what it connects to. What's the most likely place for a short.
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I'm having the same issue My fob works to unlock and I get the chirp but when I press lock I get nothing. My panic button works as well alarm on/off. Neither switch will lock the doors, I have to manually lock them. My pass side window only goes up and down with the drivers side and works when it wants to on the passenger side switch. I'm baffled too.....it's not the relay, it's not the fuse, not the switches I replaced both with new, why would it be the motor for the window? Motor works fine from driver side switch. Are the driver side and pass side seperate on the motor? If so it's pass side part of the motor bad???? I don't know. Any he elp on all this????
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