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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi All,

I've been doing a lot of reading the past couple days on here and I think I've finally figured out what my plan is. I'm going to crank the torsion bars and add the 2" shackle for the suspension, and then run a 3" body lift kit on top of that. As for wheels and tires I'm looking at a couple options. I would like to run as big of a tire as I can without it looking bad or rubbing, so I think I'll be looking at a 32" or 33" tire on aftermarket 15x8 rims. I've narrowed it down to two choices for rims and I've got a few questions.

First, about the lift:
I bought my truck second hand and it feels and looks bigger than most other dakotas, how will I know once I get under there if the torsion bars have already been cranked? also how far do I turn them if they're not done?

What is the part number I need for the body lift from performance accessories? I have a 1997 Dakota Extended Cab 4x4 (5.2L Auto V8 if that matters)

About the wheels:
The two choices I've narrowed it down to are Pro Comp style 1079, 15x8, 6x4.5 bolt pattern, -19mm offset, 3.75" backspacing.


OR

Eagle Alloys style 187, 15x8, 6x4.5 bolt pattern, -30 offset, 3.25" backspacing.


Is anyone running either of these two wheels with the above mentioned lift? What is the fitment like? (how far do the tires stick out, any rubbing, etc.) I like the Eagle alloy's looks better from what I can tell in the pictures, but the lack of backspacing and large negative offset concern me.

Also, I want to run a simulated beadlock on the rim for looks mostly. I know for the Pro Comp wheels there are simulated beadlock rings available for it so I assume that the bolts around the edge are removeable to install it. Does anyone know if the bolts around the Eagle rim are removeable as well? There's a simulated beadlock on the Eagle style 102 rim and it has the same number of bolts, so I was wondering if they might be transferrable onto the style 187 rims.



Thanks!
 

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Simulated beadlocks are not removable when they come with the rim, it is part of the mold. The procomps have been used, But the One I saw had them was 15x10's on a 2wd.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Simulated beadlocks are not removable when they come with the rim, it is part of the mold.
That's interesting because that second Eagle alloy wheel (style 102) comes with or without the coloured ring according to their website, I just assumed that it was a removeable accessory.
 

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Unless it is noted like that, they are fake screws/bolts.
 

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Sicky Gnar Gnar
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I vote for the Eagle 187 w/ the beadlock
 

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Up then Down then Up then
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You'll need blocks, not shackles. Shackles will lower a 4x4.

You'll be able to tell if the Tbars have been cranked if you can't crank them much anymore! Serously
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
You'll need blocks, not shackles. Shackles will lower a 4x4.

You'll be able to tell if the Tbars have been cranked if you can't crank them much anymore! Serously
Thanks for clearing that up, I guess I just asumed that 2WD rear suspensions were the same as 4WD rears. After reading some more it sounds like the add a leafs would be more my preference. Who makes them and how much do they typically cost. I'd be looking to get enough lift to be even with or slightly hover than the from with the t-bars cranked (1.5" - 2").

Thanks.
 

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Up then Down then Up then
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Ebay has them for cheap
 

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The Troll Behind The Dog
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I rub 285/75 with a TB crank...just throwin that out there...


 

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That's because you and your truck sucks.



Kidding
 

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305/70/16's, torsion crank, 2" blocks, 3" body lift- no rub
 

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R/Tless...for now
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I like those Eagle 187's, but that 3.25" backspacing sounds like a bit much. Anyone running that backspacing on a Dakota with 3" lift and 33's? (I'm debating between getting 265/75's for the stock 16" wheels, or just waiting a lil bit and doing the BL with 15" wheels and 33's)
 

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Just wait and get the 33's. I went with 265/75's at first and with just a torsion crank/2" block they looked tiny and I wished I'd saved the $400 I spent on them. If you don't want a body lift, just crank the tbars, add 2" blocks and get some 285/75/16's or 33x11.5's
 
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