Pics of Finished Gen 2 brake upgrade (Rear Disks)

Here are some steps to doing this in case you can't find them elsewhere on the site.

There are a few links on the topic already on the board.

http://www.dakota-durango.com/forum/showthread.php?t=79248

http://www.dakota-durango.com/forum/showthread.php?t=114356

Basically you need to get some parts from the salvage yard. I used the brakes off of a ’98 Grand Cherokee. Not sure what all the years that will work. I think ’94 to ’98. Make sure you note what year it is in case there are any part differences for when you buy new parts. You need the hoses, calipers, backing plates, rotors, and all of the hardware. Shouldn’t run more than $100, about $80 if you don’t get the rotors there.

You will have to be able to take the pan off of the rear end so you can slide the axles out. Once they are out the rest should go pretty easy. Find one that you can get into neutral also or you will have to take the rear driveshaft loose if the axle retainer pin bolt is not in the correct orientation.

On the brake hoses, I just cut the metal line so that I would be able to remove it without damaging the hoses. The same type of trick can be used on your truck fit the fittings on the brake lines will not rotate and you don’t want to replace them, you can unbolt the wheel cylinders and spin them instead of the fitting. From the Cherokee, cut the parking brake cable about a foot long from the backing plate. Bolt cutters work well for this, but a hacksaw will work. Clean the parts and see if you need any new stuff. Make sure the caliper bolts slide free.

Take the brakes off your truck. It’s a good time to replace the wheel seals as well(wheel bearings if needed as well) and you will need new diff fluid. If you replace the seals don’t forget to lube them with some oil or grease. I would remove and replace the studs that hold the backing plates on since the factory ones on the two that I have done were too short to trust. Just take a BFH and knock them out. NAPA sells some that will work, they are metric, but work great. You will need to open the holes very slightly. Also while you have the studs out you will need to fit the center hole on the new backing plate. I would remove the rust and scale off the axle that sticks out past the flange then use a carbide burr or sanding drum on a die grinder to take a little material off of the new backing plate until it slides all the way onto the axle to the flange. Then ream out the holes for the new studs, don’t open them too much, they will hammer in and put the new studs in. On the new backing plate you will need to open the four bolt holes that hold it on to fit the new studs.

If you are going to use the old rotors and they need turned make sure you have them checked for thickness before you drill them. Whatever rotors you use (old ones from the yard or new ones) you will have to drill or have drilled for your bolt pattern. This is the worst part of the job. My first set was the ones from the salvage yard, since I didn’t want to chance it with new rotors until I knew it would work. I drilled those on a drill press. It was a pain in the ass, a mill would be much better. You use one of the existing holes and drill 5 others. 3 are easy as they are out in the open. 2 interfere with the 5 lug pattern. They are a bitch. You may have to use a carbide burr to finish them or a mill. My expensive rotors, I had done at a machine shop. Just use your drum to transfer the pattern to the rotor or take it with you to the machine shop. A transfer punch works well if you have one to get the pattern right on.

You can go ahead and install the backing plates, make sure you use loctite on the studs that hold them on and torque them to ~85ft-lbs. Then install your parking brake hardware if you ever plan on hooking it up. If not you can ditch that stuff. It’s a lot easier to install before the axles go in if you are keeping them. Then slide your axles in, be careful not to damage the seals. You can go ahead and put the c-clips back in. Check to make sure your wheel studs don’t contact any of the parking brake components when they rotate. If they do, clearance them with a grinder, if not button the rear diff back up and add fluid and LSD additive if needed(also a good time for new studs if your old ones are damaged or look bad).

Now you can slide the rotors on and check the fit and check for clearance. Install the pads and mount the calipers, be sure to lube the guide bolts. Fit and install your brake lines. Bleed brakes. Install and torque the wheels, etc. I didn’t cover everything, I don’t know what you know and don’t know. Of course be safe and make sure to check and double-check everything. Good luck.

Later,
Joe


BOM:

• Salvage yard
o Cherokee brakes
 Calipers
 Hoses
 Backing plates
 Rotors
 Pads

• Parts store
o 8 Studs and 8 nuts ( I think it’s the only fine thread Metric that NAPA has in the drawers, M12X1.25 I believe, I can get a part number if you can’t find them)
o Wheel seals - optional
o Wheel bearings - optional
o Hardware kit
o Pads? – optional
o Parking brake shoes - optional
o Rotors? – optional - at least get them turned
o Diff fluid
o Loctite
o Ultra black RTV for diff pan
o Diff oil
o Limited slip additive (if necessary)
o Brake lines (if necessary)
o Caliper lube

• Tools
o Bolt cutters
o Hacksaw
o Grinder (and safety glasses)
o Mill or drill press
o Drill bits
o Cutting tool oil
o Various wrenches, sockets, and breaker bar
o Carbide burr
o Die grinder
o C-clamp (to push the caliper back in)
o Torque wrench
o Seal puller
o Jack(s)
o Jack stands
o Others?