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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hey gang, I wanted to get opinions on rebuilt TCMs and PCMs for a 2001 Dakota, Automatic, 4.7L 4x2 with 226,615 miles on the odometer.

I spent the morning testing electrical circuits and wiring for the PCM and TCM, along with associated fuses and relays. I am convinced it is my PCM that has the issue, but just for giggles I am going to have both my PCM and TCM rebuilt and re-flashed.

There are two companies I am looking at:

allcomputerrebuilders (http://allcomputerrebuilders.com/)

autocomputerexchange (http://autocomputerexchange.net)

Has anyone done business with these companies, if so, was the service good and the products as advertised?

Just for fun, here is the C1 connector when I pulled it out, there was some kind of viscous fluid puddled in the port on the PCM side. It had no distinguishing odor, and had the consistency of water.

Could a capacitor leaked or some other internal part?



Other than water proofing the circuit board, what the hell is this 10 pounds of Jello doing in my PCM :jester:

 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Just called autocomputerexchange and for 403.16 I can have a refurbished TCM and PCM sent to my door step...seems a bit inexpensive to me for two separate units.

Thoughts, opinions?
 

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Yeah, I'm sure that PCM "GOO" is for Water Proofing...

Here are a couple other sites that deal with refurb PCM & TCMs...
I used one of them a few years ago to get a PCM, and it was around $100.
The TCMs are usually more expensive ( around twice that ), so the price of that combo you are ordering should be about right...

http://www.solopcms.com/

http://www.siaelec.com/

Joe
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thank you JoMc67! That makes me feel better about the price. I went ahead and ordered a TCM and PCM from autocomputerexchange.

After talking to them on the phone, it seemed like a legit deal, and the BBB had great reports on their parent company. The only downside, is the time. They did not have a TCM in stock for my truck, so I shipped both my PCM and TCM (to cover the core charges) and they are sending me a rebuilt/re-flashed PCM and rebuilding/re-flashing my TCM. Should be about two weeks...waiting is the hardest part, as my truck just sits in the driveway...gimped up :)

In any case, total damage after shipping was $431.97.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Just an update for those following this thread. After getting my rebuilt TCM and PCM from autocomputerexchange, I still have the P1698 NO BUS error for the TCM. I am ok with the money spent on the TCM and PCM, and don't mind changing those out, but I am going to go back through the wiring diagram and re-trace my steps.

I have a feeling that I missed or glazed over some important testing, and I want to confirm my power and grounds, mainly the power from the PDC, junction block and ignition.

I remember reading somewhere on here that someone found an issue with the secondary power from the ignition switch due to a bad ignition switch.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thank you brother, that is the thread I remember seeing! You gave some great advice in that thread, thank you!

I will post back on my findings!
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
It aint looking good....after a rebuilt TCM and PCM, and following through with testing the items from http://www.dakota-durango.com/forum/...d.php?t=143411 "no bus" still shows and the guages fail to work.

Here's the scoop of what I have done the last two weeks:
Towed it over to my buddy's house, the only person I will let touch any of my vehicles, and we spent two straight weekends hunting this bitch down.

Before you ask, he is a retired (27 years) Level 4 Senior Chrysler Technician (for what its worth), and has about every tool under the sun...at one point, he said...I don't know...back in the day we would just swap out parts from the parts locker until we found the bad module.

Two weekends before he made that comment, we had the DRB III failing to communicate with 3 modules ABS, MIC (Cluster) and CTM...so first thing, we started hunting all the grounds, even replaced 4 of them just cause they looked "suspect" (braided factory straps)....ohm'd out all PCI wires to and from each module (PCM, BCM, TCM, ABS, MIC, CTM, HVAC), even watched the for voltage across each module (via a scope) as we energized each module....

It's on its way back to my house, and after two weekends f'ing with it, I am about to throw in the towl and just start throwing parts at it...MIC, ABS, CTM, HVAC... Which is a sign of defeat in itself, for me, I hate throwing parts at a problem, I want to diagnose and understand "WHY".

I can understand, one module failing....but 5 (TCM/PCM/MIC/ABS/CTM)?!?!? There's no freaking way.

Screw getting it running, it's principle now...it's a damn machine, it aint going to beat me. :)

Thanks for letting me vent, any chance someone out there has some tips or pointers?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Ugh...well tomorrow morning, I am going to go back through my steps one last time, there is something I am missing :(

If I don't find it, I will probably sell it to the salvage yard, and/or start parting it out. One thing I am going to tinker with again is the ignition cylinder and switch, along with triple checking the switch continuity and switch plug power/grounds. As mentioned by Taz (http://www.dakota-durango.com/forum/showthread.php?t=143411) I will be going back over his tips in that post.

Worst case, I part it out and start looking for another ride ;)
 

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Ugh...well tomorrow morning, I am going to go back through my steps one last time, there is something I am missing :(

If I don't find it, I will probably sell it to the salvage yard, and/or start parting it out. One thing I am going to tinker with again is the ignition cylinder and switch, along with triple checking the switch continuity and switch plug power/grounds. As mentioned by Taz (http://www.dakota-durango.com/forum/showthread.php?t=143411) I will be going back over his tips in that post.

Worst case, I part it out and start looking for another ride ;)
I'd hate to see you do that. It's always rewarding when you diagnose an issue right on the money.

I have the same issue, but yours is a lot worse. Wish you best of luck and hope you find the cause.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I'd hate to see you do that. It's always rewarding when you diagnose an issue right on the money.

I have the same issue, but yours is a lot worse. Wish you best of luck and hope you find the cause.
Thanks brother, yea this issue is kicking my butt. Over the last couple of days I have hit some salvage yards, and pulled a cluster, abs module, ctm, overhead, hvac unit, steering wheel clock spring and even the air bags, all in all about 80 bucks, so not too bad, worse case I sell em off on ebay.

In any case, my next plan of attack is borrowing the DRB III from my buddy, replace modules one by one, and seeing if anything comes to life.

On the bright side, I have a 2002 Reg cab RAM 1500 (automatic with a 4.7) that has a "blown" motor for 200.00 sitting down the street. I am tempted to just buy it, throw my engine and tranny into and be done with it....but since I have these parts, I am going to give it one last try :mullet:
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I totally blanked the first time I read this thread.. Did you ever try this??? http://www.dakota-durango.com/forum/showthread.php?t=161570
Thank you man!

I will go back though and test 1-5, interesting thing we found was that #6 is ground for PIN 53 out of the TCM but shows NO continuity to ground. PIN 53 goes to the Line Pressure Sensor. SO we tried with the gear in Reverse, Drive, 1, 2, 3 and still no ground. Any thoughts on that, it seems the ground should always be there and not switched since it has a 5v supply, right?

#6 on your list seems interesting, I will test that this weekend or sooner, if I can get home from work on time.

Thanks again man, and I will post back what I find.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
Just an update, no go on http://www.dakota-durango.com/forum/showthread.php?t=161570 test, all test came out fine, ~5v (Some hovered at 5.15 - 5.05, possibly due to the battery charger I have attached to the truck) at each sensor.

I am starting to think it might be the instrument cluster. The pci bus has continuity and virtually no voltage drop (.02-.06v) to and from each module.

I was looking at the instrument cluster schematic, and I am wondering if something fried inside of there (I/O processor(s)).

When the "no bus" first happened a couple of months ago, it acted wierd. The first time I started the dakota, I got the "no bus" (P1698) and after immediately shutting the dakota off, I started it right back up and the instrument cluster worked fine, but once I shut it off, it hasn't worked since.

Some more info, maybe helpful, maybe not:

1) A/C switch light on the HVAC control does not come on, A/C clutch will not come on (probably due to the HVAC control unit not communicating through the cluster over the PCI bus)
2) Radio works fine
3) Headlights, interior lights work fine
4) Overhead console does not display outside temp information (double dashes, but this probably due to the HVAC control unit not communicating through the cluster over the PCI bus)
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
**** f i x e d ****

For the past six months, it has sat in my driveway, taunting me and forcing me to hone what little mechanical skills I have :jester:

Yesterday, I had enough. I spent the better part of the morning tracing every wire in and out of the cab, all wires in the cab....and you know what I found?

I frayed wire, grounding itself to the metal of the truck. Fixed that, still no luck, but it did make some parts of the instrument cluster come to life and start working...finally, fate was smiling on my dumb ass :)

After about 5 hours, I went inside, ate lunch, licked my wounds and started planning my "Worse Case" scenario...part out the truck, sale it wholesale to a salvage yard, or keep it as my parts truck for the next Dakota that I buy....

I went back out to the truck, took some window cleaner and started cleaning the windows...at least there was one problem I could fix, dirty windows. As I was cleaning the instrument cluster, I bumped the ignition module...and BAM!... ABS, Brake Light, MIL, Trans Temp lights went off, got a distinctive little ding, and the A/C light came on and kicked on the compressor... WTF?

I put it in drive, and took it around the block, everything worked beautifully, like nothing was wrong. Came home, pulled in the garage and started probing the back of the ignition module and doing the "wiggle" test on the wires, nothing, it was acting perfectly normal. I did notice some loose connectors in the molex plug, so I took the pins out one by one, cleaned them, re-crimped them and even soldered them to firm them up. Sprayed the piss out of the molex plug and ignition connectors with Deoxit 100 just for grins, then plugged everything back in, did the "Wiggle" test and nothing, still worked perfectly.

After staring at it, and my inner voice telling me I had imagined the last 6 months...I started pushing and poking other areas of the steering column...my first try at pushing the center of the ignition module, and BAM get a ding, the A/C kicks off, and the instrument cluster goes DEAD. Push it again, and it comes back to life.

Keep in mind, for grins, I put a brand new ignition module in about a month ago..part of my desperation of throwing parts at it...so I walk over to my work bench, which at this point has about 3 sets of instrument clusters, CTMs, PCMs, ABS modules and TCMs, and I grab my original ignition module, plug it in and the truck runs like a champ, no amount of thumping, pushing or poking can replicate the P1698 issue.

Long story short, the combination of finding the frayed PCI wire, and putting in a working ignition module...and possibly cleaning up the iginition molex plugs, got my humpty dumpty truck back together again! :mullet:

Tomorrow, I am taking back the "Brand New" ignition module to Napa and getting my money back.

Now, I get to keep planning my mods...holy crap, it's like I have a brand new truck sitting in my drive way....its been down since May...what a pain in the ass. :jester:

Thank you to everyone that has posted here with advice and kind words, thank you Taz for pointing me in the direction of the ignition module!
 

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For the past six months, it has sat in my driveway, taunting me and forcing me to hone what little mechanical skills I have :jester:

Yesterday, I had enough. I spent the better part of the morning tracing every wire in and out of the cab, all wires in the cab....and you know what I found?

I frayed wire, grounding itself to the metal of the truck. Fixed that, still no luck, but it did make some parts of the instrument cluster come to life and start working...finally, fate was smiling on my dumb ass :)

After about 5 hours, I went inside, ate lunch, licked my wounds and started planning my "Worse Case" scenario...part out the truck, sale it wholesale to a salvage yard, or keep it as my parts truck for the next Dakota that I buy....

I went back out to the truck, took some window cleaner and started cleaning the windows...at least there was one problem I could fix, dirty windows. As I was cleaning the instrument cluster, I bumped the ignition module...and BAM!... ABS, Brake Light, MIL, Trans Temp lights went off, got a distinctive little ding, and the A/C light came on and kicked on the compressor... WTF?

I put it in drive, and took it around the block, everything worked beautifully, like nothing was wrong. Came home, pulled in the garage and started probing the back of the ignition module and doing the "wiggle" test on the wires, nothing, it was acting perfectly normal. I did notice some loose connectors in the molex plug, so I took the pins out one by one, cleaned them, re-crimped them and even soldered them to firm them up. Sprayed the piss out of the molex plug and ignition connectors with Deoxit 100 just for grins, then plugged everything back in, did the "Wiggle" test and nothing, still worked perfectly.

After staring at it, and my inner voice telling me I had imagined the last 6 months...I started pushing and poking other areas of the steering column...my first try at pushing the center of the ignition module, and BAM get a ding, the A/C kicks off, and the instrument cluster goes DEAD. Push it again, and it comes back to life.

Keep in mind, for grins, I put a brand new ignition module in about a month ago..part of my desperation of throwing parts at it...so I walk over to my work bench, which at this point has about 3 sets of instrument clusters, CTMs, PCMs, ABS modules and TCMs, and I grab my original ignition module, plug it in and the truck runs like a champ, no amount of thumping, pushing or poking can replicate the P1698 issue.

Long story short, the combination of finding the frayed PCI wire, and putting in a working ignition module...and possibly cleaning up the iginition molex plugs, got my humpty dumpty truck back together again! :mullet:

Tomorrow, I am taking back the "Brand New" ignition module to Napa and getting my money back.

Now, I get to keep planning my mods...holy crap, it's like I have a brand new truck sitting in my drive way....its been down since May...what a pain in the ass. :jester:

Thank you to everyone that has posted here with advice and kind words, thank you Taz for pointing me in the direction of the ignition module!
I'm super glad you got it figured out. Hopefully the problem does not return.

This thread among other is what is going to help me fix mine as I am having the same issue. With that said, congratulations and thanks for creating this reference.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I'm super glad you got it figured out. Hopefully the problem does not return.

This thread among other is what is going to help me fix mine as I am having the same issue. With that said, congratulations and thanks for creating this reference.
Thank you for the kind words! I hope you get yours fixed, it is a HUGE relief to know my Dakota is up and running, and with all this time diagnosing the issue, it has improved my confidence :mullet:

From my experience, I recommend you clean ALL of your grounding points. Everything from the engine grounds to the PCM, TCM, ABS and CTM grounds. I am amazed at how a couple 100th of a volt effects our Dakota/Durango.

Also, work backwards, has anything electrical recently been installed? If so, trace the wires and make sure nothing is dropping voltage. If I had done this, I would have found that frayed wire and never gotten to the point of putting in a faulty ignition module.

In either case, good luck with your repair, and keep us posted!
 

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Thank you for the kind words! I hope you get yours fixed, it is a HUGE relief to know my Dakota is up and running, and with all this time diagnosing the issue, it has improved my confidence :mullet:

From my experience, I recommend you clean ALL of your grounding points. Everything from the engine grounds to the PCM, TCM, ABS and CTM grounds. I am amazed at how a couple 100th of a volt effects our Dakota/Durango.

Also, work backwards, has anything electrical recently been installed? If so, trace the wires and make sure nothing is dropping voltage. If I had done this, I would have found that frayed wire and never gotten to the point of putting in a faulty ignition module.

In either case, good luck with your repair, and keep us posted!
Nothing electronically has been installed. Mine acts weird only when it wants to. It could go weeks without dying, then out of no where it will die once or twice for days. It started this summer with the "No Bus" after it would die with no warning. I thought maybe it was the pcm going bad but I didn't want to render it bad and replace it if it wasn't. Funny thing is that in the cold mornings the rpm needle gets stuck around 500 rpm's when I first start it up and stays there until shortly after it has warmed up a bit. I thought maybe my cam sensor was going bad but if it was I would have bigger issues.

Once it dies I already know what to do. If it doesn't start after dying, pop open the hood and disconnect the three plugs at the pcm and plug them back in after a minute or so (I have done this in the middle of traffic at a stop light with people honking at me) and it usually starts up.

Only problem is that the problem does not occur often to where I can perform the voltage test for the sensors associated with the pcm and when it does, it's always in the middle of traffic, never when I'm pulling in or out of the house.

Damn thing likes toying with me! :huh:
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Nothing electronically has been installed. Mine acts weird only when it wants to. It could go weeks without dying, then out of no where it will die once or twice for days. It started this summer with the "No Bus" after it would die with no warning. I thought maybe it was the pcm going bad but I didn't want to render it bad and replace it if it wasn't. Funny thing is that in the cold mornings the rpm needle gets stuck around 500 rpm's when I first start it up and stays there until shortly after it has warmed up a bit. I thought maybe my cam sensor was going bad but if it was I would have bigger issues.

Once it dies I already know what to do. If it doesn't start after dying, pop open the hood and disconnect the three plugs at the pcm and plug them back in after a minute or so (I have done this in the middle of traffic at a stop light with people honking at me) and it usually starts up.

Only problem is that the problem does not occur often to where I can perform the voltage test for the sensors associated with the pcm and when it does, it's always in the middle of traffic, never when I'm pulling in or out of the house.

Damn thing likes toying with me! :huh:
That is interesting, my gut response would be the connectors may have corrosion on them, causing the intermittent issue. Instead of unplugging them and plugging them back in, have you tried "wiggling" them to see if you get the same "fix" result?

I HIGHLY recommend buying a can of DEOXIT 100 contact cleaner (you can get it from Guitar Center), and spraying your PCM molex plugs and PCM molex ports.

Also, I still have a new PCM for my 2001 Automatic Transmission/4.7L/With A/C and California Emissions, you are more than welcome to have it, if it will work for your year and model.

You will need to take it to someone that has a DRB-III or suitable tool to program your VIN into it.
 
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