Dakota Durango Forum banner

1 - 20 of 55 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
754 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Keep getting P0340, it turns over but doesn't start. Replaced sensor but nothing, it just turns over but doesn't fire and keep getting P0340. Reset the pcm a few times, left off the battery for few hours at a time. Anyone? Maybe I got a bad replacement sensor..?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
754 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
short in the wiring probably or something disconnected. What sensor is that for?
Camshaft position sensor. I looked over the wiring and it visually looks ok. Im going to check the voltage tomorrow. Im guessing sensor,wiring, or pcm. It turns over ok and was working great right before it died with no signs other than a week ago it wouldn't start and I left it for 3 hours then it just fired up first time like nothing was wrong.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
754 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
I would check your grounds. a little ground could cause it. did you pull out all the wiring? Could also be something where the sensor reads. Im not familiar with the 4.7 motors.
No I figured id check voltages before I looked over the wiring. Im uncertain of the grounds, Do trucks have more than one ground? Dumb question I know. I traced the negative from the battery and it looked secure.
 

·
Resident Craigslist Whore
Joined
·
3,230 Posts
No I figured id check voltages before I looked over the wiring. Im uncertain of the grounds, Do trucks have more than one ground? Dumb question I know. I traced the negative from the battery and it looked secure.
all three major truck components are grounded. frame to body, body to engine, engine to frame. and im sure more. there's one on your exhaust, too, goin to the body. mine is on one of the exhaust clamps after my 3rd cat and is bolted to the body under the passenger rocker panel. they're everywhere, just gotta start searchin.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
754 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
all three major truck components are grounded. frame to body, body to engine, engine to frame. and im sure more. there's one on your exhaust, too, goin to the body. mine is on one of the exhaust clamps after my 3rd cat and is bolted to the body under the passenger rocker panel. they're everywhere, just gotta start searchin.
If it was grounding out wouldn't it throw a code for that? I might need to check the body to frame ground.
 

·
Resident Craigslist Whore
Joined
·
3,230 Posts
If it was grounding out wouldn't it throw a code for that? I might need to check the body to frame ground.
if the code is thrown for a cam position sensor, and you replace it and the code is still up, then its a wiring or ecu problem. you did actually clear the code with a scanner, right? not just plug the new sensor in and expect the code to go away?
 

·
Resident Craigslist Whore
Joined
·
3,230 Posts
cleared by unplugging above. Still won't run.
find someone with a scanner, or just pick one up at autozone for like $150. clear the code out the right way, then see what happens. ive never tried clearin a code just by unhookin the battery, it's not the proper way to do it. and yes, you may have gotten a bad sensor. its rare, but happens.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
754 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
find someone with a scanner, or just pick one up at autozone for like $150. clear the code out the right way, then see what happens. ive never tried clearin a code just by unhookin the battery, it's not the proper way to do it. and yes, you may have gotten a bad sensor. its rare, but happens.
Clearing codes on a dakota is easy. Either disconnect the battery for awhile or disconnect and turn key to start for 30-1min.

Im going to check voltages tomorrow if its ok I'll buy another sensor. Ive been running a 02 Jeep TCM on my 2000 for a while so it might have screwed up the PCM. Ah time will tell. I hope not I like my 5th gear.
 

·
JDKSXT03
Joined
·
84 Posts
not to sound stupid or anything, but make sure your crank sensor and cam sensor are both bolted down snugly, I had a crank sensor come loose and it took me two weeks to track down why my engine would crank and crank and not start. Turned out I forgot a washer and the ckp came loose. Just make sure man.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
754 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
not to sound stupid or anything, but make sure your crank sensor and cam sensor are both bolted down snugly, I had a crank sensor come loose and it took me two weeks to track down why my engine would crank and crank and not start. Turned out I forgot a washer and the ckp came loose. Just make sure man.
Thats good advise and im 100% sure its in properly. I haven only messed with the camshaft sensor though and not the crankshaft.
 

·
www.AIRRAM.com
Joined
·
2,191 Posts
Im not saying this is your problem... but it could be.

The crankshaft woodruff key drives the crank sprocket which drives the cams. The woodruff key has a VERY thin tab that sticks out like an arm to catch the Crank Sprocket. When this key brakes it thows cam/crank timing codes because the cams/crank are no longer in time.

I had this issue when running the old ASP pulley. This is a known problem with some 4.7L and more common with 4.7L who have used the old un modified ASP pulleys. The reason there was an issue with the ASP pulley is because it did not mount against the sprocket... The factory damper when torqued clamps down onto the crank sprocket effectivly assisting in holding the sprocket securly into place... the ASP pulley fell about 1/8 in short so all that would drive the cam sprocket was the dinky tab of the woodruff key.

So... it may not be a sensor after all.

THE FIX...

If this is your problem the fix is to remove the entire front cover to expose the crankshaft snout. You will need to remove your cam timing chains. This is a good time to replace them if they are original. Then replace the crankshaft woodruff key and install your new timing set... basically just change the timing chain + woodruff key on the crank.

Because of this problem I had my crank modified to prevent this from EVER happening. I had my shop drill a small hole where the tab would stick out to catch the crank sprocket. I then had them install a dowel that would now drive the crank sprocket so now the woodruff key no longer drives my crank sprocket.

GREAT EXAMPLE OF WHAT TO LOOK FOR

http://www.dakota-durango.com/forum/showthread.php?t=112999

Good luck,

NICK

It could be that the crankshaft Woodruff key broke.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
754 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
Im not saying this is your problem... but it could be.

The crankshaft woodruff key drives the crank sprocket which drives the cams. The woodruff key has a VERY thin tab that sticks out like an arm to catch the Crank Sprocket. When this key brakes it thows cam/crank timing codes because the cams/crank are no longer in time.

I had this issue when running the old ASP pulley. This is a known problem with some 4.7L and more common with 4.7L who have used the old un modified ASP pulleys. The reason there was an issue with the ASP pulley is because it did not mount against the sprocket... The factory damper when torqued clamps down onto the crank sprocket effectivly assisting in holding the sprocket securly into place... the ASP pulley fell about 1/8 in short so all that would drive the cam sprocket was the dinky tab of the woodruff key.

So... it may not be a sensor after all.

THE FIX...

If this is your problem the fix is to remove the entire front cover to expose the crankshaft snout. You will need to remove your cam timing chains. This is a good time to replace them if they are original. Then replace the crankshaft woodruff key and install your new timing set... basically just change the timing chain + woodruff key on the crank.

Because of this problem I had my crank modified to prevent this from EVER happening. I had my shop drill a small hole where the tab would stick out to catch the crank sprocket. I then had them install a dowel that would now drive the crank sprocket so now the woodruff key no longer drives my crank sprocket.

GREAT EXAMPLE OF WHAT TO LOOK FOR

http://www.dakota-durango.com/forum/showthread.php?t=112999

Good luck,

NICK

It could be that the crankshaft Woodruff key broke.
Well I had this problem like a week ago, except I went in for a few hours came back and decided to try starting it for the hell of it and it fired without any problem. Drove it during the week without issue. Probably put 200 miles on it. This leads me to believe its the sensor,wiring or pcm. Let me know what you think. Of course saying that I did buy djwolfs old asp pulley that just had the problem you've explained.
 

·
www.AIRRAM.com
Joined
·
2,191 Posts
If that is an OLDER/ORIGINAL ASP Pulley has it been modified? Quick way to tell is to look through the center. If its ONE diameter all the way through then its OLD and needs to be modified. If it has a small step in it effectively having 2 different diameters then its a modified one and should be fine.

Im just tossing out some ideas... Its impossible for me to know without being able to see it for myself.

NICK
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
754 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
If that is an OLDER/ORIGINAL ASP Pulley has it been modified? Quick way to tell is to look through the center. If its ONE diameter all the way through then its OLD and needs to be modified. If it has a small step in it effectively having 2 different diameters then its a modified one and should be fine.

Im just tossing out some ideas... Its impossible for me to know without being able to see it for myself.

NICK
Its installed on the truck but im 99% sure its one diameter all the way through.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
754 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
Well I bought a multimeter (Performance Tool W2974). Im unsure if I was using it correctly. I set it to DCV * 20 and grounded the black connector and tested the two connectors on the cps plug while the key was on and got 3.4v and then it slowly dropped to nothing on two of three cps plug connectors. Im uncertain that I did it right as this was my first time Ive even looked at a multimeter let alone use it. Thoughts?
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
7,509 Posts
easiest thing isto take the cam sensor back and have them give you another one. ours are so easy to get too. then if it does the same thing then you know its not the sensor.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
754 Posts
Discussion Starter #20
Ok just retested and im getting 5 volts on the two outer connectors on the cps plug. So its not wiring, must be cps sensor, pcm, or crankshaft. Im heading out to get another sensor from another store.
 
1 - 20 of 55 Posts
Top