[Guest]

Ok, what I got is a 2000 4.7 automatic 4x4. Back in Feb.2005 my "check gauge " light came on, and everytime it came on my oil gauge would drop to "0". Then the light would go out and the gauge would go back to 40+. This kept on intermiting that morning. From the time it started that morning, I was on my way to work. I took the hiway and the intermitting was still happening. By the time I got close to work the truck died! Truck had 88k on it. Long story short............ had it at the dealership and was told it blew a rod. They did start it for me and I did hear the rod/s. Ok, I just got my truck back after 10 months (10 months, that's Another story). I now have a remanufactured 4.7 in it which I picked up last Saturday (Nov. 12). That Monday the "engine" lite came on. I looked around in the engine area and found the long tube/hose from the oil filler to the intake was not attached. This I took care of. Light was still on. I disconnected the battery for about 15 minutes and reconnected it. The "engine" light went out. By the time I got home (about 38 miles) the "engine" light came on again. I drove it for the next two days with the light on but the truck ran fine. Today, I went out and the "check gauge" light came on and the oil gauge dropped to "0" again........intermitting...40+ and 40-. This happened only when the truck was below 1000 RPM's. I was slowing down or stopped when it happened. As far as if it would go on with higher RPM's I do not know. I went back home and parked it. Is something happening here????? It's a new motor, why is this happening again????? As of right now I have NOT had it checked. I'm taking the back-up car tomorrow for work. PLEASE help!! :help: :drool: :cussing:
BIG THANK YOU
ds

 

[gunmetal]

check engine light

this may sound stupid but check your gas cap make sure it is on tight!!!

 

[addicted2blue00]

see if ya can pull the code through the mileage, get in the truck, put the key in and switch back and fourth from off and just to on to where trhe gauges come on 3 times, the third time leave on and a p code should come up. far as the oil problem i couldnt tell ya whats wrong but good luck.

 

[Guest]

I could care less on the "engine" light.......it's the oil gauge/check gauge light I'm more concerned on. I could be incorrect but would a loose gas cap have to do with the oil gauge cutting out everytime the "check gauge" light comes on? It's HARD to beleive that my engine blew in Feb. because of a loose gas cap. Is this telling me no oil is getting to the engine or there is a glitch in the electric? My engine blew last time when the gauge was cutting out. I can't beleive it's doing the EXACT same thing again with a new motor. Don't want to lose another motor again! Something is not right here.
Thanks anyway.........I'll check the cap in the mean time on the "engine" light.
ds

 

[Guest]

I'll try the "P CODE" thing. I do remember though that the "engine" light DID NOT come on last Feb. before the "check gauge" light came on. I will check the gas cap and P Code when I get home today from work. Thanks guys!
ds

 

[Guest]

Ok, I got the code........P0171. Can someone with smarts tell me what it is please????????? Thank you,
ds :help:

 

[Guest]

Got it. Boy, very informative stuff on this forum. Says I got a "System Lean Bank 1". Running to lean I guess. Any ideas on the oil gauge dropping out on me???
Thnx.,
ds

 

[Rahhstah]

For your future engine code needs...

http://www.dakota-truck.net/CODES/codes.html

 

[Guest]

This is what I got........ IF you have read what I have posted, you'll know what has been going on with my truck. Anyway, keep in mind I have not driven the truck since Sun. (20th.) I did just get it back on the 12th.. Well, tonight I ended up removing the oil sending unit and put in a temporary mechanical unit and fired up the truck.Truck was cold and She was reading around 75-80 psi. Once warmed up around 190*, oil pressure dropped to around 32-35 psi. As I reved it up to around 2-2500k rpm She ran around 75 psi. What this tells me is the mechanical gauge works fine and the electric sending unit is a "toilet".
So, if any of You are having trouble with your oil gauge/check gauge light, test to be sure. Remove the electric sending unit and put in a mechanical one to be "sure". In my case back in Feb., I had two problems, sending unit was junk and my motor was on its way out. IF the oil gauge worked properly, it would have read "0" and at that time I would have shut the engine down right there! But the gauge was junk and at the same time the motor was on its way out and I had no warning.
Now, one more added feature.........I got this today right from the dealership. To check oil psi. in a 2000 Dak. 4.7/
Remove oil pressure sending unit and install gauge asslembly C-3292 (any mechanical one would do ) .
Run engine until thermostat opens.
Oil psi:
Curb Idle-25 Kpa (4psi) minimum
3000 rpm-170-550 Kpa (25-80psi)
If oil psi is 0 at idle, shut off engine. Check for a clogged oil pick-up screen or a pressure relief valve stuck open.
AGAIN, THIS IS FOR A 2000DAK. 4.7
I hope this helps you out, cause it sure did me. I was going f$%^ing NUTS!! :banana2:
As of right now, I'm going to run the truck with the temp. mech. gauge which I have routed out of the hood in my door jam in the cab so I can read it for awhile........just to be 101%. I think I'm good.
Now I can go have a drink/s :drive: