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rimfire said:
Joshua,

I too have seen Royal Purple at Pep Boys also and never bothered to try it. It is very expensive. I've always used Mobil 1 myself as it's expensive enough for my pocket book. I have wondered how they compare though. Anyone who wants to give us the scoop.

For your cross country trip I usuall keep 35 in the front and 41 in the back according to the instructions on the door. Doing this it's give me 21.2 on the highway but it's not easy to do but it can be done.

Now and then I still think about trying an engine treatment in order to increase MPG in my "D". I've heard all the pros and cons of doing this but now a days can one stand to lose anything at this point?

rimfire,22
Hey RimFire,

Just a little correction. We're only driving up to the Bay Area. I'm not much of a long distance driver so you'll never see me driving cross country. Maybe when I retire some day. But that won't be for a long time!

You mentioned the tire pressure for the front and rear to be 35 and 41 psi, respectively. Does this only apply to the factory tires? My stock tires were 255/65/16 but I've since been running R/T rims with 275/60/17 Falkens.

As far as Royal Purple oil, too expensive. I'm gonna use another less expensive synthetic oil next time.

Thanks for the advice!

Joshua
 

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47SLTDuRide said:
I've since been running R/T rims with 275/60/17 Falkens.

As far as Royal Purple oil, too expensive. I'm gonna use another less expensive synthetic oil next time.
If your going to be out on the highway, crank the air pressure near max. The tire will wear better, and you'll have less of a 'contact patch' thus less resistance, better milage (true only by like .5 MPG er so..) but still better. I run mine at like 32 Lbs all around. If the max pressure is like say 45 PSi on the tire sidewall, I'd run like ~40.

Royal Purple is expensive. I can't say that it's any better than any other synth for any reason. I've heard that to be called a 'synth oil' you only have to have a certian percentage (like 60%) synth! Royal Purple (Unlike Mobil 1) is 100% syn. I run mine for around 6K. Filter too. Never had any problems. I also get it at 10% over cost (thanks to Napa) so it's only like $3.40 a quart.
 

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hate to tell you but mobil 1 is a pure syn oil. you better check that again. castrol syntec is not a 100 % syn. the only pure syn is the 0w-30 german castrol. .

mobil 1 is a group 4 basestock and is 100% syn oil. where redline is a group 5 basestock which is better than group 4 but you pay alot more. group 3 and lower are your reg oil basestocks. so what you posted is wrong and you should edit it so people in here dont take it as the truth. so you should do some research before posting stuff online. I pulled all this info off of bobistheoilguy . if you still think M-1 isnt a 100% pure syn oil. go in there and post that but I warn you they will blast you for not doing your homework :rofl:
 

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while the family and I were traveling cross country this summer I had scheduled to change oil I went from RP to M-1 because I couldn't find any royal P in stock anywhere.

My observation was that the royal purple held up far better at 4500 mi. it looked less polluted and felt more viscous than the m-1 after the same amount of miles. I know sticking ones finger in your oil is not a very high tech method of comparsion. :jester: but sometimes you cant help it. :banana2:

needless to say I dumped the m-1 in favor the royal purple once we got home. and plan on keeping it.
 

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I heard all the rave about Royal Purple engine oil so a few months back I bought a few quarts and thought I'd give it a try albeit it was the most expensive engine at Pep Boys. So far I put in over 4K miles since the oil change. I was once told by a mechanic that I can run 6K miles on full synthetic oil. Can I put in anouther 2K miles before my next oil change? Before using synthetic I'd just buy the cheap Proline oil/filter and have an oil change every 3K miles.

Also, my family and I will be traveling from SoCal to the Bay Area for Christmas, what's the best tire pressure for cross-state traveling? :drive:

Any help and advice will be appreciated. Thanks and Merry Christmas! :mullet:

Joshua
Joshua, I just got off the Royal Purple site and their comments in regards to oil changes were 12000 miles. They back that with a warranty. They said your wasting your money if you change at 5-6000 miles. Interesting info!!
 

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C'mon Dodge - NEW DAKOTA
2003 Dakota Club Cab Sport 4.7L
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First, you are responding to a 15 year old post. The OP hasn't been here in 8 years.

Secondly, have you noticed that even in modern cars, the manufacturer makes no distinction regarding oil change intervals -- between synthetic oils and conventional oils?

Fact is, it's not the brand or type of oil itself that determines the change interval, it's the engine. How much blow-by does that engine design exhibit? And how much does it have now when you've got 150K on it? I don't expect an answer. What is the oil operating temperature? What kind of PCV and EGR systems does it have? What kind of fuel are you using? What kind of driving are you doing? Are you towing? Are you lead-footed?These are things that affect the usable life span of the oil. Expensive oil does not get less contaminated than cheap oil. And even better oil filters only get the chunks -- none get the contaminants out, those are molecule sized.

I guess I have to get on my soapbox again. CHANGE YOUR OIL AT THE MANUFACTURER'S RECOMMENDED INTERVALS. They were not joking in the users manual. The intervals are designed to keep your engine from being exposed to contaminated oil too much/too long..... it's all a compromise. Cleaner oil == longer life. Period.

This is basic stuff. I work for a vehicle manufacturer.
 

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First, you are responding to a 15 year old post. The OP hasn't been here in 8 years.

Secondly, have you noticed that even in modern cars, the manufacturer makes no distinction regarding oil change intervals -- between synthetic oils and conventional oils?

Fact is, it's not the brand or type of oil itself that determines the change interval, it's the engine. How much blow-by does that engine design exhibit? And how much does it have now when you've got 150K on it? I don't expect an answer. What is the oil operating temperature? What kind of PCV and EGR systems does it have? What kind of fuel are you using? What kind of driving are you doing? Are you towing? Are you lead-footed?These are things that affect the usable life span of the oil. Expensive oil does not get less contaminated than cheap oil. And even better oil filters only get the chunks -- none get the contaminants out, those are molecule sized.

I guess I have to get on my soapbox again. CHANGE YOUR OIL AT THE MANUFACTURER'S RECOMMENDED INTERVALS. They were not joking in the users manual. The intervals are designed to keep your engine from being exposed to contaminated oil too much/too long..... it's all a compromise. Cleaner oil == longer life. Period.

This is basic stuff. I work for a vehicle manufacturer.
I understand everything that you have stated. I spoke with the Tech's at Royal Purple and they went over a lot of what you stated and they also discussed the 12 and 15 thousand mileage quote. They stand by their language with a warranty. By the way I change my Royal purple once a year in my 2012 F150 5 litre and it comes out amber not dark probably due to the use of a Mobil extended distance oil filter. And also I'm aware that this is an old post. Just wanted to clarify for the others that spoke. Also I do use non ethanol as I have a 36 gallon tank in my truck and don't fuel up very often. The difference between the 12000 and 15000 interval is a towing or off road difference.
 

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C'mon Dodge - NEW DAKOTA
2003 Dakota Club Cab Sport 4.7L
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Read the warranty. It covers defects in the product, and damages caused to equipment by the product. Not gonna cover your engine if it seizes up, because there is no way for you to prove that the oil caused the failure. Nor will the oil prevent engine failure if the engine is already compromised. It's all marketing. Is it good oil? Sure, but not materially different from other synthetic oils. Not some super magic mystery oil.
 

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Read the warranty. It covers defects in the product, and damages caused to equipment by the product. Not gonna cover your engine if it seizes up, because there is no way for you to prove that the oil caused the failure. Nor will the oil prevent engine failure if the engine is already compromised. It's all marketing. Is it good oil? Sure, but not materially different from other synthetic oils. Not some super magic mystery oil.
You work for a vehicle manufacturer so your comments do not surprise me. I think however that I will listen to the various oil techs, the many techs I have spoken with at Ford Dealerships and other people (some who race cars for a living). Synthetic has been around long enough to have proven itself.
 

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C'mon Dodge - NEW DAKOTA
2003 Dakota Club Cab Sport 4.7L
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Hey, I use synthetic oil myself, and every vehicle we build ships with synthetic oil. Just saying Royal Purple, Amsoil, and the like, are not materially different from other synthetic oils. It all marketing. We work closely with lubricant suppliers in formulating oils for our engines. Our applications require oil formulations beyond the requirements of automakers. It's the additive packages that change. Just remember who is trying to sell you expensive oil, and who isn't. That tech doesn't give 2 shits about your engine.
 
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