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Discussion Starter #1
So I recently have replaced my belt (New Dayco), tensioner (New Dayco), idler (New Mopar), power steering pump (Reman from Advance), and A/C compressor (New Denso), and while in gear with A/C on, the tensioner knocks. I've spun the alternator pulley (as well as every other pulleys) by hand with the belt off and it feels very smooth, so I'm not suspecting it's the problem. It has done this since before all of that was replaced (and I didn't replace these things just to fix the knock).

Is this something that the alternator may be causing only when energized? I'd hate to toss a $150 alternator at it and not fix it. My truck is a 1997 Dakota Sport 3.9L RWD Auto with the 117amp alternator. Also, instead of getting a 117amp replacement (if it is the problem), could I just go up to the 136amp to save $50 and to have one locally? Seems like the 117amp is rare around my area so it would have to be shipped to me and runs around $195.

The alternator on my truck looks to be OE and the truck has 233k miles on it, so I wouldn't be surprised if its on its way out.
 

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I am changing the timing chain on a 99 Dakota 3.9L. I am not planning to change the tensioner. How did you deal with prying the tensioner back and out of the way while removing the chain. My chitons shows to use a screw driver to pry it back and put a keeper pin in two holes. Easier said than done. Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I was actually talking about my serpentine belt here, but I just did my timing chain a few weeks ago, and trust me, just replace the tensioner if you're that far into it. I got cloyes timing kit and tensioner with a felpro gasket set for under $100. The tensioners are known for breaking so just put in a new one for piece of mind if nothing else.
 

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How did you remove the chain. Mine is very tight with the tensioner in place. What started my post is my inability to pull the tensioner away from the chain.
As a second question, when you remove the tensioner are you anywhere near the oil pump hardware?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
My chain tensioner was broken off, so my chain was sloppy as all hell. But when I normally do a timing job like this one, of I can't pry back the tensioner, I can usually just unbolt the cam sprocket and gently pry it off along with the crank sprocket. Also the oil pump is in the pan driven by the distributor on the back of the engine, so you are nowhere near it while doing a timing job. The oil pan has to come off to access it, and trust me, getting that pan off is a massive pain in the ass. I just replaced my oil pump and pan gasket yesterday and it calls for about 3 hours to replace it, took more like 5 with 2 ASE master techs messing with it (granted my headers made it more difficult). What's the reason for changing the chain if everything is tight?
 

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1988 Dodge Dakota LWB RC 3.9V6 3 speed auto
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As a second question, when you remove the tensioner are you anywhere near the oil pump hardware?
Also the oil pump is in the pan driven by the distributor on the back of the engine, so you are nowhere near it while doing a timing job.
To note:

For LA and Magnum motors, yes, the dizzy in the back... actually, the oil pump is driven by the cam, and the dizzy by the oil pump. (Weird design).

For the 3.7 and 4.7 motors, it's a bit different ... the pump is apparently driven off the crank, from the design of it.

RwP
 

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Discussion Starter #8
To note:

For LA and Magnum motors, yes, the dizzy in the back... actually, the oil pump is driven by the cam, and the dizzy by the oil pump. (Weird design).

For the 3.7 and 4.7 motors, it's a bit different ... the pump is apparently driven off the crank, from the design of it.

RwP
Really? It didn't look that way when I had it off. It only had the one shaft come down from what I suspect was the distributor, but didn't see how it could operate that way. Maybe if it had 2 shafts, 1 from cam to distributor and another from cam to pump. Also first time I've seen someone call it a dizzy.
 

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1988 Dodge Dakota LWB RC 3.9V6 3 speed auto
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Really? It didn't look that way when I had it off. It only had the one shaft come down from what I suspect was the distributor, but didn't see how it could operate that way. Maybe if it had 2 shafts, 1 from cam to distributor and another from cam to pump. Also first time I've seen someone call it a dizzy.
There's no gear on the distributor (called a dizzy because, well, if you watch the rotor at speed, it'll make you dizzy ... and it's easier to say that disty or distributor. Old term, yes; I was learning terminology back in the 60's as I was growing up!) to be driven off the cam; the gear is on the oil pump intermediate shaft.

This is as opposed to, say, a Chevy or Ford, where the gear is on the distributor shaft and the spline at the bottom is a female, to match the male on the oil pump intermediate shaft.

Look at the parts again; the pics at places like RockAuto are really nice to see stuff like this.

RwP
 

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Hey guys. I got my truck all back together this morning. New timing chain set, water pump, power steering pump and hoses, thermostat, plugs. Just wanted to drop a note to thank you who responded to my posts and helped me along with this. You were all very helpful, kept me straight, and helped me save a ton of money to boot. Thanks again.
 
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