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Discussion Starter #1
I put a NOS Sniper kit on my 89 today - $360 from summit. Just got off the dyno - it did 407rwhp & 508 ft pounds of torque. I'm happy... Hoping to run a mid 7 in the 1/8th and low to mid 11 in the 1/4 now.






A little background:

1978 LA-360 Block - Internally Balanced
Bored .60 over - 371cid
Forged SRP Pistons 10.2:1 cr
Hand Filed Rings for N2O
1970 340 "J" Heads
Comp Cams Extreme Energy - Intake 0.488" [email protected] /Exhaust 0.491" [email protected]
Valves/springs: Chevy 1.6 intake & 1.9* exhaust
Holley 670 Street Avenger Carb
Performer RPM Intake
MSD Pro Billet Distributer - MSD 6al - MSD 8980 - MSD 8680
TCI a727 Tranny - TCI StreetFighter® 3,000-3,400 Stall Converter
Mopar 8-3/4 Rear w/4.11's - Detroit Locker
Hooker Super Comp 1-5/8" Primary Headers
Just got some 325-50-15 BFG Drag Radial TA's and racing rims

Without N2O:
315rwhp @5,900rpm on pump gas
375rwT @2,600rpm on pump gas
 

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I know I'm late on this one, but those are nice numbers, you have reaffirmed my plans for running a direct port nitrous fed magnum 390. I hope to have it finished sometime next year. These things take time or money, whichever you have more of. Thanks for sharing that info with use.


Jay
 

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How hard was it to convert your truck to a carb motor?? getting around the cpu, did you use the same gas tank, trans? do all your gauges still work? Thinking of a 360 create motor for mine but trying to find out how much hell it will be.
 

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I'm still running EFI. I'm not really into Carbed engines anymore, while they are less hastle.I feel an EFI motor can and does make more power, and is better on fuel. It is pretty easy to run a a carbed engine in a dak. You shouldn't have too many problems at all.


Jay
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Hey - sorry it took so long to reply. I just got back from a 2-week vacation and landed in the hurricane down here (Mobile, AL). We're fine though - no complaints here.

The physical swap was a pretty big deal because it was a gen 1 (space constraints), but with the mp ecu, getting it running was simple. At first I ditched all the stock ecu stuff and got the Mopar performance distributor and chrome ECU for about $200. Ended up with all MSD - that's the way to go for sure. You can use your gas tank and trans (as long as u have the v6), but the trans won't last very long. The speedometer and gas gauge still work, but I went aftermarket on everything else. I'm sure you could get all the stock gauges to work if you really wanted though. Is yours a gen 1? Which crate motor are you looking at? I know the 380 HP one has a single plane intake and would probably be pretty rough on the street (like mine isn't ;) - but for the money, you can't beat it. One thing you need to find out about is the balancing of your torque converter and if it is the same for the 360 (I think it is - but don't trust me on that).

I like carbs because they are simple to get going and they are cheap. The initial monetary investment in an EFI setup is pretty outrageous, plus the investment in time getting it tuned properly. EFI systems will definitely get better gas mileage (probably 3-5 mpg), but as far as top end power, there's not much difference. If I had had the extra $2000-$3000 for a proper tunable EFI setup at the time, I would've done it. I guess it would pay for itself after a few years of daily driving.

Unfortunately, I just wrecked the truck and will be putting everything from it into a 1969 Dodge Dart GT. Fortunately for you guys, I will be selling my gen1 360 motor mount conversion kit and the high cap oil pan that is required for the swap. Good Luck!
 
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727?

You were running a 727 3 speed trans in your old truck?
If so, did you use the original shelby trans. crossmember?

I've decided to go with the demon carb, 727 TCI sizzler trans, and rebuilding my 318. Hughes Performance will do my heads, THEY ROCK! :bow:
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Yup, TCI Streetfighter 727 3spd with the Streetfighter 3000-3400 stall converter - Just used the stock Dakota cross-member that came with the truck. It pulls on the tranny mount a little, but no big deal.
 

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Dude ur truck is sick, do u not have it anymore? Im moving to Alabama next year, and i was hoping to come see u run it.
 

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Thanx - Unfortunately, I just wrecked the truck and will be putting everything from it into a 1969 Dodge Dart GT. At least I'll be running in the 10's now with the GT (and popping wheelies;)). I have vids of me running the truck if you haven't seen them.
 

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yeah i saw the videos, i like the one where ur speedo broke. Well, if ur puttin ur stuff in a Dart, im sure itll be even better. Ill probably still try to come see u run somewhere when i get down to Montgomery.
 
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I sent you a PM I am interested in the headers and any other performance parts for your Dakota you may have left.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
87Dakota said:
I sent you a PM I am interested in the headers and any other performance parts for your Dakota you may have left.

I do have the headers, but I noticed a small hole in the passenger side header from rubbing against the tranny (it's a tight fit). I can weld the hole up if you are still interested. This rubbing could be avoided with some kind of insulator - like a small piece of header wrap between the tranny and header - or I could weld a thicker piece of metal onto that part of the header to alleviate the rubbing problem all together. They are not coated and pretty much all of the paint is gone, but they are in overall good shape (other than the hole), no big rust pits or anything. They were about $300 new.

I have the Shumacker engine mount conversion kit from engine-swaps.com, to bolt a 340/360 motor into a gen1 Dakota using stock mounts. They were $403 shipped when new.

I have the high capacity rear sump Milodon oil pan (7.5 quarts I think) for the gen1 (360 only). It has a small gouge in the bottom from scraping a curb, but does not leak at all. Was $300 new - shipped.

I also have an 8 3/4 rear end housing with relocated spring perches for the gen1 with fairly new brakes and drums- I may have a decent 8 3/4 differential and axles, but I'll have to check on the specifics of that. The housing would be a good find, since it's already been modified for the gen1 and tested thoroughly.

I have a 727 tranny yoke (was $90 new - shipped) and shortened drive shaft (for gen1 with 727 & 8 3/4) with the smaller "7260" universal joints . I'll have to look around and see what else I have - Just make some offers...


Thanks,
Gus
 

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Sorry that I never made you any offers, I just moved back to the states from over seas, and in the process, I acquired an 8 3/4, that need's to be modified, and a ready to be stroked magnum 5.2 (318). I'm pretty sure the headers that you have won't work on the magnum motors so I guess I responded prematurely. I wish I had waited for the 8 3/4 rear. Yours sounds like it is just what I'm about to build myself..Anyways good luck with everything and sorry to hear about the truck.


Jay
 

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They'll fit both ways, I've had the same set of headers on my Shelby Dakota (old 318) and now on my 95 318 Mag.
 
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