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Discussion Starter #1
I posted up in the new member introduction section already, but 1 of the members suggested I post up in here as well because not many people view that section so here it is again lol

Hey everybody my name is Phil, I just picked up a 2000 Durango Rt 2 days ago, it has 190,000 miles on it I've already done a fresh oil change and replace the front brake pads. I called the local Dodge dealership and had them check on recalls and it turns out that the upper ball joint recall on this was never replaced which is good and bad for me... Good because I'm getting a brand new parts for free but bad because that lets me know the previous owners probably didn't do the best job of maintenance

So my questions to all of you guys is what else should I be looking for on something like this as far as key problem points with these trucks? I'm getting ready to move across country from California to Alabama and I want to make sure that this thing will survive the drive

Another question I have, how hard or easy is it to reconnect the 4 wheel drive engagement box or whatever it's called, the shifter is there and I have the linkage to it but it is not connected I will post the picture see you know what I'm talking about but I want to be able to utilize the 4 hi or 4 lo if I get stuck in a bad area

Thanks for any and all replies in advance :)

 

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Looks like the previous owner decided to disconnect the linkage. Get under the truck in that area and try to find if that's all that was done, if yes then it should be as simple as reinstalling that linkage.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Is that something I will have to drop the transmission 4? Or can I just get underneath their and visually see what it is I'm doing? I have a jack and jackstands and stuff but I just don't have the tools I use to have so I can't drop the trans or motor unfortunately
 

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You shouldn't need to drop the trans but it might be a little tight without the truck on a rack. Hopefully the previous owner didn't get rid of the whole 4x4 system and convert it to a true 2wd durango.

Oh BTW, replacing the upper ball joints are very simple to do. Air chisle, punch, and they should pop right off then bolt new ball joints on.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Well the Dodge dealership here in town actually is doing the upper ball joints for me under a recall so I don't have to pay for it or do the labor lol but I will try and get that linkage put in tonight, other than that anything else I should be weary of besides typical maintenance like plugs wires and stuff
 

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If you can't get that linkage put in tonight, see if the guys at the dealership can do it.

I'm not sure how much you checked out the durango before you bought it but look at the lower ball joints too, all 4 in the 97-00 were pretty crappy from the dealership. Check the control arm bushings for dry rot and play. Another thing that I highly suggest looking at are the front wheel hub bearings. Mine have been in need of replacement over a year ago I just haven't got around to it yet and my truck only has 130k miles.

Just go over the truck and look at everything. Look for leaks, check for play in the front suspension by jacking one of the front wheels off the ground and wiggle the wheel with your hands at 9 and 3 this tests the outer tie rods and 12 and 6 tests for ball joints. 10 and 4 is how I test for wheel bearing but this could be the wrong way, not sure. Look at the rear end for any leaks, pull off the rear wheels and drums if the drums inside is dry then you don't have a wheel bearing seal bad.

Another thing I do suggest is flush the brake fluid, supposed to be done every 3 years anyway. Check all fluid levels and color.

Got any photos of your durango?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I will take a picture or two later or tomorrow when is light out... its that champagne goldish color... tinted windows all around stock rims... nothing fancy lol... but ill post pics tomorrow for sure
 

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When you post those photos up, be sure to put them in the Photo/Video section. The guys here love to see new member rides.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Roger that.... So I got underneath the truck and got the connector bar put in place, but I didn't have the locking pins or whatever I need to hold it in place, but I was able to verify that the transfer case is operational I put it in 4 low and for high and neutral and back into 4 wheel drive and it all ran fine no funny noises are loud clunk or anything else about the relief, now I just need to get the locking pins or whatever it is that holds that bar in place
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Does anybody have a picture off the gear shifter rod installed? I need to know which direction it goes and if I need to replace 1 rubber gromets or if I am supposed to have to because I wondered if I only have 1 rubber grommet that's attached to the floor shifter and it's pretty beat up but the shifting bar adapter on the transfer case does not have 1 and I need to know if I need to or 1 rubber gromets and once I get those replaced, I need to know which direction that linkage bar is supposed to be installed so I don't do it backwards lol
 

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I don't have that kind of information but I can suggest going down to your local library and ask for the automotive repair manual section then look through it for what you need to know. They have an exploded view of just about every part of the durango that you could ever want to know about.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
well i found an exploded view of it online thats how i got the part number for the rubber grommet, but the view of that linkage shows it sideways but not connected... i have a good idea of which way it goes but not 100%... oh well ill figure it out haha
 

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Before you go paying 400% dealer mark up on parts,check out rockauto.com, forum members here get a 5% discount code ( big woop) But they got stuff usually half price of the local parts stores.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
oh sweet deal... ima look into that now :)

btw i might be picking that super chips thingy off ya soon
 

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oh sweet deal... ima look into that now :)

btw i might be picking that super chips thingy off ya soon
Rockauto.com is where I go for just about ALL of my parts for both of my trucks and whoever else I'm doing work for. My '00 has rockauto parts on it in the way of water pump, front calipers, flex brake lines, rotors, pads, all 4 ball joints, front and rear shocks, valve cover gaskets. My '03 will eventually have a new Oil Pressure Switch from rockauto.

As for the super chips programmer, you will like it but keep in mind once it is vin locked you can't use it on another truck until you return the truck it is used on back to stock settings. Also if you have the programmer set to 91 oct performance and you aren't using 91 oct fuel you can develop a knocking or pinging under heavy acceleration which can damage your engine. Just thought I would explain how the programmer works and some things to be aware of. It is a safe tool if you know some issues before hand.

It's an easy tool to use, plug it in. It'll run through a small introduction thing then just follow the steps and do exactly what it says. Takes 5-10 minutes and your done.

I wanted to see just how much of a difference it made on my '03 with a 4.7L V8. I ran my 1st set of runs with the programmer with a best time of 14.993 @ 87mph (exact trap speed in my signature). I ran the next couple runs without the programmer installed and my best run was 16.103 @ 85 and change.

Your results will vary! lol
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Well even on the fuel cap it says run premium fuel only so that's what I run, Iran that in both of my Audis and on my r1, but I was looking at Gaines verses other motors and it looks like the 5.9 has the largest horsepower gain out of everything 47 horsepower and 59 torque vs like 18hp and 20tq for the 5.2/4.7....
 

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On my superchips 3718 which I currently have on my '00 3.9 v6 with the 87 fuel economy setting I see 15 miles extra on average per tank but I drive mainly city roads with the top speed of 60mph for a small stretch mostly drive 30-45.

On the 4.7 I feel the gains are mainly with the transmission. Without the programmer the shift between 1st and 2nd is a wide open gap but pretty smooth with the programmer the shift to 2nd is much harder and I normally get tire chirp.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Well even if my RT wasn't all wheel drive I'm pretty sure I still wouldn't get tire chirp as heavy as that bitch is lol
 
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