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Need some help getting my Dakota running again.

444 Views 3 Replies 3 Participants Last post by  cwkerr007
Hello guys,
I’ve got a 1999 Dakota R/T. unfortunately my truck decided to just stop running. It took me to work, but wouldn’t start when I was ready to leave. Came back a day later with startup fluid and some tools. Took off the distributor cap to see if it had condensation from all the rain. It was fine. put it back together put some injector cleaner in the tank and sprayed some start up fluid in the throttle bottle, she started and took me home. It then started and I was able to drive down the block and back for like 4 days. The day I was gonna take it to my mechanic it decided to not start again and it’ hasn’t started since. At first it would crank, I’d hear the fuel pump prime and the rpms would bounce. Today I decided to work on it. I swapped the crank sensor, ignition coil, distributor cap and rotor and I tried to start it. Nothing and now the rpms do nothing when cranking it. I got a spark tester and a fuel pressure tester. Hooked up the spark tester to the ignition coil, no spark. Also hooked up the fuel pressure tester to the schrader valve on the fuel rail and the gauge reads nothing even though I can hear the fuel pump turn on. Don’t know what to do at this point and I don’t have a ob2 scanner. In dire need of some help as I do not have a car for work and Uber is expensive. Thanks in advance!
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Have you checked to see if you are making fuel pressure at the fuel rail when you are actually cranking the engine?

My own Dak (5.9) went through a period in its life when it would INTERMITTENTLY shut down & start back up. Then intermittent devolved to terminal. It turned out to be the PCM, but that is not to say that I am suggesting to automatically suspect your PCM. I have typed out the troubleshooting sequence I used on numerous threads, so let me see if I can find one of them & I will copy & paste:

On mine ('03), these are the checks that can be made, & I will paraphrase: "test for battery voltage to the coil by disconnecting the connector from the coil & using a MM to check for volts at the dark green/orange wire with the ignition ON.

THis is an edit: if the PCM does not recieve a valid signal from the crank and cam position sensors within TWO seconds of turning key to on, it will deenergise the ASD relay and you won't read voltage until you crank the engine or repeat the on to off sequence with the key. Meaning you either need to have your voltmeter set up & ready to go and where you can see it when you turn the key on, or you will need an assistant.

No voltage=bad ASD relay.
If volts: use the ohm-meter function of your MM & check primary & 2condary resistance of the coil. My Haynes lists 0.95 to 1.20 ohms & 11,300 to 13,300 ohms respectively, but I believe Haynes is giving me inaccurate specs on that.

If coil ohms out good: check the trigger signal from the PCM. Using an LED test light (inexpensive from Advance or the like) back probe the coil driver terminal (black/gray wire) & check for a flashing light as an assistant cranks the engine.

If no flash: then check the operation of the cam position sensor & the crank position sensor, and their associated circuits (those are the two sensors I alluded to earlier in this reply).
If those sensors test good: send the PCM out to be diagnosed."
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Have you tested your spark tester? Disconnect your wires from your coil .Take a jumper wire and clip it to the positive side of the coil.take another jumper on the net side . Now connect the pos to the pos of the batt and lightly brush the wire to a grounded piece of metal while your spark tester is hooked to the primary of the coil and you should get a spark as you brush the neg of the coil that is the sure fire way to test a coil no meter needed but the chances of the coil being bad is minimal. If all the test from Immatt turn out to test the pcm before you have it tested clean the connectors to it and try the spark again all the procedures he recommended or correct so good luck !!!!!!
Messed up I meant to say lightly brush the negative side of the coil
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