Dakota Durango Forum banner

1 - 9 of 9 Posts

·
Jay
Joined
·
11,490 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
OK so its time to start ordering parts for my build and i could use some advice on the selection of the following items. My goal is to just have a reliable motor that can handle 8hr road trips and track time on the weekends with having to worry about blowing it up. With that said i will NOT be using nitrous and i will not be going to much over the boost the kenne bell puts out stock.


Rods: I would like to reuse my stock rods, but is this asking for trouble? Are the stock ones strong enough to handle the SC?

Pistons: I have only seen ross pistons so i will most likely get those, but what options? (FLAT/DOME/DISH) i am also thinking about doing a .030 bore, but not sure if that will be worth the trouble or not :huh:

Cams: I have a set of 212's but not sure if i should use them or sell them and get something else. Would these work well with my SC?

Fuel injectors: Not sure if i need new ones of if i can just up the PSI on my regulator. http://www.dakota-durango.com/forum/showthread.php?t=105742


Here is a list of all the performance related mods I have done to my truck (even the ones that don't add hp).
JBA shorty headers
custom 2.5" mandrel bent exhaust with magnaflow y pipe
SCT tuned
212 cams (to be installed)
asp under drive pulley
alt under drive pulley
power steering under drive pulley
removed a/c
180 deg T-stat
removed EVAP
dual relocated oil filters
summit fuel pump
72mm F&B TB
custom ram air intake
2003 intake manifold Being replaced with a KENNE BELL :mullet:
removed clutch fan
Shardon stage III valve body
4.10 gears
Moser axles
Dynojet a/f gauge
Dakota Digital oil pressure gauge
Dakota Digital (still need to order)
Detroit LSD
5-45rfe TCM
M/T slicks on racing 16's
solid motor and trans mounts
Complete new fuel system including all new ss lines, fuel pump, regulator, tank, and billet fuel rails (being made as we speak)


For the suspension I have Hotchkis coil springs, QA1 adj shocks, and custom tubular control arms upfront and in the rear I have a 4-link, watts link, and QA1 adj coil overs. I also relocated the battery to the rear of the truck along with a custom fuel tank.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
432 Posts
Ok those cams will be alright but not ideal. That is a part easily changed later. I would get the ROSS pistons with a max .030 overbore. No need to get crazy with the bore. I would not get dome pistons with a supercharger. I would suggest a dish pistons with no more then 9:1 comp ratio so you can actually run some timing. If your already in the motor I would also put good rods in it and you'll never have to worry about them. Your stock rods have pressed pins which aren't the best out there by any means.
 

·
Jay
Joined
·
11,490 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Is it worth the trouble to bore it or should i just skip that and use that $ to go towards the rods? I will probably be using a block that has under 35k miles on it. If the cams are not ideal do you think i should sell them and put that towards new ones or will they make a noticeable difference? Also do I need to take the crank out to swap the rods and pistons?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
432 Posts
Only real choice are the up coming KRC billet cams but they are gonne be 1,200 bucks I believe. You always want to have the bores checked cleaned for new pistons. The boring isn't very expensive.
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
9,045 Posts
Is it worth the trouble to bore it or should i just skip that and use that $ to go towards the rods? I will probably be using a block that has under 35k miles on it. If the cams are not ideal do you think i should sell them and put that towards new ones or will they make a noticeable difference? Also do I need to take the crank out to swap the rods and pistons?
i would say stay the same bore since the block is good, not alot of power in in overbore for the cost.. but no you dont have to pull the crank to do the pistons and rods...just undo the rod caps and pus out the top (if heads are removed) opposite when installing just get one of those piston ring compressor tools. it compresses the rings down so you can lightly tap the piston back in.
 

·
Benz Tech
Joined
·
889 Posts
Are you using the stock cast crank or do you have a forged ho crank? Is the cast crank strong enough to handle boost?
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
9,045 Posts
Are you using the stock cast crank or do you have a forged ho crank? Is the cast crank strong enough to handle boost?
the cast crank can handle the boost, its just the stock pistons and rods that will give issues. duner found out just how much the rods couldn't handle....but he put alot more thru it than what dj wolf is gonna put thru his
 

·
Benz Tech
Joined
·
889 Posts
the cast crank can handle the boost, its just the stock pistons and rods that will give issues. duner found out just how much the rods couldn't handle....but he put alot more thru it than what dj wolf is gonna put thru his
Any guesstimate on how much boost the cast crank can handle?
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
9,045 Posts
Any guesstimate on how much boost the cast crank can handle?
duner had put a couple trips down the track with a faulty wastegate and and IIRC he said it was about 30lbs or so of boost. bent all the rods into "s" shape and took 2 weeks before the first one broke
 
1 - 9 of 9 Posts
Top