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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well I finally got my checking card yesterday so now I need to order up some parts to break it in :D. But I need help on what to buy and where to get it the cheapest. Reason I want to do as much as possible is that I live 100 miles away from my grandparents shop and my tools, I'm in school now living in a crappy apartment.

So far on the list I have-

Exhaust-I have no idea on what I want to do for this as of right now, would like to get a true dual set-up on it. I don't want to go over $400 on the full exhaust system, and we don't have emissions testing here so I can cut the 3rd cat out. If it is A LOT cheaper to get a single exhaust instead I would go that way. I'm looking to get the most gain out of it, but I don't want to take the front 2 cats out unless they are a really restricting part of the exhaust.

Intake-Looking for the best Ebay intake pretty much. I feel that the K&N full kit is WAY over priced for what it is. I found 2 different brands that both cost $88 on Ebay, and both come with a 6.5" long K&N filter. The brands are ChromeIntakes and Insys, anyone have experience with either?

Auto Locker- Probably what I am looking forward to the most, as having an open diff is REALLY annoying to me. I'm pretty much set on the Lock-Right, but I am open to other ones. Limit is about $400 or less for this, and I have a 9.25" open rear. Do I have a 31 spline? Don't have the time/tools here to check it. The Lock-Right for any 9.25" would work correct?

Transfercase seal/something-There is a seal or something where the front drive shaft comes out of my transfercase. I haven't been able to find anything that looks like it so far online, and I can take a picture if you guys need it. It looks kind of like a rubber boot that goes onto the front drive shaft, and the boot part is ripped in two. Anyone know what part this is?

Brakes- Front and rear. The fronts need new rotors but I'm not sure on the rear drums. Is it worth it to get drilled and slotted rotors? What kind of pads should I get? And the sticker in the glove box says I have heavy-duty rear brakes, I'm guessing that means I have the bigger drums? I'm not looking to spend a whole lot on the brakes, I would say $200 max on them.

And heres an issue I have been having with them- Whenever I let the truck sit for a few hours then go drive it, the first time I hit the brakes one of the front tires will lock up. After that it works fine, and I'm thinking its the brake line as when I was doing the ball joints on it when the I got the bottom one knocked loose my whole hub fell off the stand I had it on and all the weight was held up by the brake line. Before that it worked fine so thats my guess.

CV Shafts-When I was doing the ball-joints I had the mishap of all the weight being held up by the brake line. That was partially because the CV shaft poped out of its collar. Is it time to toss it out when this happens? I just lined it up and pushed it really hard and it poped back in there. The other problem with them is that both of my front ones had little cuts on the boots already. Not real bad as to throwing grease all over the place, but there was a little bit on the boot around the crack. I was just wondering if I should replace these or if they can wait til summer.

Tires- These wont be coming until I get playing with the new locker out of my system :D Looking to get a set of 265/75R16 All-Terrains. What are some good cheap options and where is the cheapest place to get them? I would REALLY like to get the General Grabber AT2's, but I'm not sure if I want to spend quite that much. I found the Cooper Discoverer S/T's for fairly cheap and they look like a good tire aswell. I was hoping to spend less then $600 installed so keep that in mind.

This is what I have planned to order up so far, I might be forgetting something but I'm pretty sure this is it. Thanks for any help on this!
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I already got $1,600 into that, so F that one in the A!
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Where did you get $400 on the list? Total will be 1500-2000 for parts...
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Can anyone tell me on the brakes for sure? Does it saying I have heavy-duty brakes in the rear mean I have the 11" brakes or what? And does anyone have any idea what that seal is called? And if I should replace the CV shafts or leave them for now? Looking to get this stuff all ordered up tonight, tomorrow at the latest. Thanks!
 

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IMO, since you have the money now I would fix the things that need attention now. Leaking seal and splitting CV boots would qualify. They are not as sexy as a new intake or muffler but could save having to lay out even more in repair cost later.

There are two rear brake sizes 9 x 2 1/2 and 11 x 2 1/4 If it calls out heavy duty brakes they should be the 11". A quick check with a ruler will verify.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Well I have the money to do both right now but I was wondering if I could get by on the CV boots for now. The seal or whatever it is I want to get done now, but I have no idea what it is called. And the tires I was planning on getting this spring/summer as my tires still have like 6/32's left on them.

Another exhaust question- Would it be better for performace to run a quieter muffler and take out the 3rd cat, or to just get a VERY free flowing muffler (cherrybomb extreme). I wanted to do duals but I really can't justify how much more a true dual set-up would cost and how little it would gain over the 1 in 2 out ebay kits that are under $200 shipped. And we don't have emissions testing here so no worrys on that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Picture!

Heres a picture of what I was talking about, I guess it isn't at the transfer case like I had remembered. There is a shaft about 6" long running from the t-case to this thing.

Thats the front drive shaft and the transfercase behind it. (just so you know where your looking at)


Thanks! And I really want to get this stuff ordered SOON so any input on any of the above stuff would be great!
 

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We Are 138
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Just fill the truck up, and blow the rest on hookers and whiskey.:jester:
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
So about the powertrax...my 9.25" open rear is 31 spline correct? I'm ordering the stuff right now so just want to make sure to avoid the headache of finding out when my rear end is all apart.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Alright well I just ordered up enough stuff for now. I ordered a Chromeintakes+6.5" K&N, single in dual out cherrybomb extreme with all the pipes to the back bumper, powertrax lock-right, new brake pads/rotors/brake lines up front and new brake shoes/hardware kit/wheel cylinders for out back. I looked at the CV joints again today and they both still have tiny hairline cracks in them, and tires will come after I'm done playing with the new locker and the ones on now are bald :D Total came out to around $820 for all that, with mid range brakes.

Can I use someone elses programmer on my truck? He has a 2002 Dodge Ram with the 4.7 in it, not sure what kind of programmer it is but he said it just plugs in, you pick what you want and then unplug it.
 

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Gen I FTW
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Alright well I just ordered up enough stuff for now. I ordered a Chromeintakes+6.5" K&N, single in dual out cherrybomb extreme with all the pipes to the back bumper, powertrax lock-right, new brake pads/rotors/brake lines up front and new brake shoes/hardware kit/wheel cylinders for out back. I looked at the CV joints again today and they both still have tiny hairline cracks in them, and tires will come after I'm done playing with the new locker and the ones on now are bald :D Total came out to around $820 for all that, with mid range brakes.

Can I use someone elses programmer on my truck? He has a 2002 Dodge Ram with the 4.7 in it, not sure what kind of programmer it is but he said it just plugs in, you pick what you want and then unplug it.
i don't believe so. i was reading through the thread, in my opinion, i don't think it would be worth it for you to do a true dual set-up. any engine mods? looking to put a bigger motor in that bad boy?
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
i don't believe so. i was reading through the thread, in my opinion, i don't think it would be worth it for you to do a true dual set-up. any engine mods? looking to put a bigger motor in that bad boy?
I know that's why I just ordered up the Cherrybomb extreme one in two out with pipes on ebay instead. I'm going to try this out for a while and probably get a new Y-pipe and high flow/no cat later on. The one I ordered is a 3" in 2.5" out so it'll be good if I do change out the y-pipe and cat.

And the programmer is a superchips if that helps any, just found out from him. He thinks it will work, but idk. It came with his truck so he doesn't know if it is locked on his vin or whatever.
 

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I know that's why I just ordered up the Cherrybomb extreme one in two out with pipes on ebay instead. I'm going to try this out for a while and probably get a new Y-pipe and high flow/no cat later on. The one I ordered is a 3" in 2.5" out so it'll be good if I do change out the y-pipe and cat.

And the programmer is a superchips if that helps any, just found out from him. He thinks it will work, but idk. It came with his truck so he doesn't know if it is locked on his vin or whatever.
unless you have a lot of engine mods, it's not really worth it to have a true dual set-up. i have a superchips programmer myself, i think once you tune one truck, then you can't tune another one.
 

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I know that's why I just ordered up the Cherrybomb extreme one in two out with pipes on ebay instead. I'm going to try this out for a while and probably get a new Y-pipe and high flow/no cat later on. The one I ordered is a 3" in 2.5" out so it'll be good if I do change out the y-pipe and cat.

And the programmer is a superchips if that helps any, just found out from him. He thinks it will work, but idk. It came with his truck so he doesn't know if it is locked on his vin or whatever.
For you to use his programmer he would have to set his truck back to stock, and then upload the program to your truck, and then when he wants the program back on his truck he would have to set your truck back to stock, it only works on one AT A TIME but can be used on different vehicles if the original is set back to stock.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Is there anyway at all to get around that?
 
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