your gonna need a punch, 10 lbs mini sledge, a 12 mm socket, a flat head, a foot long 3/8 round stock, 5/16 box end wrench, torch or map gas to heat the pinion, and the socket for the pinion. i did it myself and i did it all outside. there is no reason to have a shop do it unless you dont feel comfortable with doing the gear mesh.
My 1988 Dakota 2wd needs a new rear end.
I'm Keith and I own a beautiful(to me) 1988 Dodge Dakota 3.9l 2wd truck that I happen to LOVE. I bought it from a Farmer about two years ago and one trip into Jiffy Lube and the rear end was squealing like crazy. It ended up being my differential bearings. I bought the bearings, but I've been discouraged from taking this task on myself. I can pretty much do anything I learn on Youtube, but I want this truck buried with me, which means I need this job to last. I've been told that it would be easier just to switch out the entire rear end for a different one. My question is, since this rebuild is probably beyond my ability, and the 7 1/4 angular pumpkin diff that's on it seems impossible to find in a salvage yard around these parts, what other rear ends are compatible with my truck that I could get from the salvage yard and get her back on the road? Let's call this a "work truck" restoration. My everyday truck is a 2004 Tacoma Prerunner, but I want this Dodge to live. Any suggestions? Sorry, I'm typing this at work, so pictures yet. I'll add some later. She's ugly, but she's mine.
Thanks for any and all suggestions.
Thanks for any and all suggestions.
21 - 40 of 55 Posts
...Which is the most intimidating part. Once you've done a couple it's not bad but that first time one should be prepared to take it back out and redo it at least twice to get it right. Granted, I've only done 9 1/4's, so I don't know if my experience translates to the 8 1/4 (and I did my first one 20 years ago before we had youtube videos and all the other interweb info we have today), but the hardest part IMO was trying to figure out the grease print and how moving the adjusters affected the mesh.your gonna need a punch, 10 lbs mini sledge, a 12 mm socket, a flat head, a foot long 3/8 round stock, 5/16 box end wrench, torch or map gas to heat the pinion, and the socket for the pinion. i did it myself and i did it all outside. there is no reason to have a shop do it unless you dont feel comfortable with doing the gear mesh.
I think I'm going to go for it. I watched Stacey David tackle one on his "Gearz" show. If I get stuck, I'll enlist the help of my neighbor. Thanks for the suggestions, TazRango and thanks for the tool list, underwood43x. I'm going to Harbor Freight for the tools I don't have....Which is the most intimidating part. Once you've done a couple it's not bad but that first time one should be prepared to take it back out and redo it at least twice to get it right. Granted, I've only done 9 1/4's, so I don't know if my experience translates to the 8 1/4 (and I did my first one 20 years ago before we had youtube videos and all the other interweb info we have today), but the hardest part IMO was trying to figure out the grease print and how moving the adjusters affected the mesh.
The hardest part usually is properly setting the crush sleeve.
Here's a replacement part:
http://www.ratechmfg.com/chryslerspbs.htm
I'm going to keep looking; there's a reusable crush sleeve replacement for the Ford 8.8, I can't see why they don't make one for the Chrysler 8.25 / 7.25 .
But be DARN sure to measure when you take it apart - I'm not going to swear to it, but I'd bet that's actually a 8.25" rear end from the shape.
RwP
Here's a replacement part:
http://www.ratechmfg.com/chryslerspbs.htm
I'm going to keep looking; there's a reusable crush sleeve replacement for the Ford 8.8, I can't see why they don't make one for the Chrysler 8.25 / 7.25 .
But be DARN sure to measure when you take it apart - I'm not going to swear to it, but I'd bet that's actually a 8.25" rear end from the shape.
RwP
The hardest part usually is properly setting the crush sleeve.
Here's a replacement part:
http://www.ratechmfg.com/chryslerspbs.htm
I'm going to keep looking; there's a reusable crush sleeve replacement for the Ford 8.8, I can't see why they don't make one for the Chrysler 8.25 / 7.25 .
But be DARN sure to measure when you take it apart - I'm not going to swear to it, but I'd bet that's actually a 8.25" rear end from the shape.
RwP
I'll certainly measure it once it's liberated from the truck. I'm kind of hoping your'e right. There seems to be more options for the 8.25" than the 7.25."
Okay, so I've come into an 8.25" rear axle assembly, 3.54 ratio(which means it's a dana, right?) for a steal. The question is, I'm buying it from a guy who has the 4wd version of my '88 Dakota. Could there be a compatibility issue? If not, I can swap this one out for mine and take my time rebuilding mine in the meantime.
Any thoughts?
Any thoughts?
that would be easier. you'll need new shackle bolts and u-bolts if its in the leafs but if its underneath youll just need the uboltsOkay, so I've come into an 8.25" rear axle assembly, 3.54 ratio(which means it's a dana, right?) for a steal. The question is, I'm buying it from a guy who has the 4wd version of my '88 Dakota. Could there be a compatibility issue? If not, I can swap this one out for mine and take my time rebuilding mine in the meantime.
Any thoughts?
The 4x4 axle for a 1988 factory isn't a Dana; that's different.
(None of the factory ones for the 1988 trucks are Dana's.)
The 4x4, if it's from a 1st Gen, will be under the leafs; your 4x2 axle is over the leafs; it will raise the back of the truck a bit.
If the truck is a 1st gen it's coming from, try to get the speedo drive gear out of the transmission also! That's a good $30 or more on the open market, and is required to get the speedo working right.
RwP
(None of the factory ones for the 1988 trucks are Dana's.)
The 4x4, if it's from a 1st Gen, will be under the leafs; your 4x2 axle is over the leafs; it will raise the back of the truck a bit.
If the truck is a 1st gen it's coming from, try to get the speedo drive gear out of the transmission also! That's a good $30 or more on the open market, and is required to get the speedo working right.
RwP
Okay, then I'm going for it. Thanks!that would be easier. you'll need new shackle bolts and u-bolts if its in the leafs but if its underneath youll just need the ubolts
I thought it was a Dana because I read that the factory rear end were 3.55 and the Danas were 3.54. I'm going to have to get the speedo drive gear in the open market because the gentleman is selling the truck and this rear end is an extra one he had. I'm thinking he upgraded his original rear end and the original is for sale. He says there's new brakes on the one for sale, so I'm thinking he bought them before he upgraded.The 4x4 axle for a 1988 factory isn't a Dana; that's different.
(None of the factory ones for the 1988 trucks are Dana's.)
The 4x4, if it's from a 1st Gen, will be under the leafs; your 4x2 axle is over the leafs; it will raise the back of the truck a bit.
If the truck is a 1st gen it's coming from, try to get the speedo drive gear out of the transmission also! That's a good $30 or more on the open market, and is required to get the speedo working right.
RwP
I'm going to inspect it tomorrow afternoon and if all checks out, complete the purchase.
I'm shopping for a flip kit so the truck isn't 5 inches higher in the back. The price range is odd, from $45-$300. I'll figure out what to buy.
Thanks for your help!
3.54 and 3.55 are essentially identical - it just depends on whether the manufacturer rounded up or down during the calculation. It's possible to have a 3.54 front and a 3.55 rear from the factory.
The Dana 44 has an 8½" ring, Dana 60 has a 9¾" ring. 8¼" is a Corporate rear.
The Dana covers are 10 bolt and look like a poorly drawn stop sign. The 8¼" has a 10 bolt oval cover.
The Dana 44 has an 8½" ring, Dana 60 has a 9¾" ring. 8¼" is a Corporate rear.
The Dana covers are 10 bolt and look like a poorly drawn stop sign. The 8¼" has a 10 bolt oval cover.
So this "great deal" was for a Chrysler 8.25 rear end 3.54 ratio with opposing shock perches. One facing forward and one facing rearward. It's from a Jeep XJ.
(Query: What exactly does opposing shocks help anyway?)
Unless I figure out how to move one perch or replace them both, I'm still without a rear end. Is there some third party solution that will enable me to use this rear end or should I just buy it and sell it to a Jeep Owner for more money? This is becoming quite an education for me.
(Query: What exactly does opposing shocks help anyway?)
Unless I figure out how to move one perch or replace them both, I'm still without a rear end. Is there some third party solution that will enable me to use this rear end or should I just buy it and sell it to a Jeep Owner for more money? This is becoming quite an education for me.
Have you looked under your truck? I think the shocks on my 00 are opposite of each other.
Yeah, mine are not opposite. My truck is first generation 1988.Have you looked under your truck? I think the shocks on my 00 are opposite of each other.
I'm wondering if it would be easier just to weld an upper shock mount in the appropriate place to receive the forward shock instead of moving the forward axle mount to the rear. I'm not going to be off-roading in my truck, so that might be the better solution. Anyone with any experience along these lines, please chime in.
Okay, so here I am.
I had to cut one of the rear leaf spring bolts off, but I'll replace that and the insert.
The rear axle with diff lid off is what came out of my truck. The other, a Chrysler 8.25" 3.54 ratio rear axle assembly out of a Jeep XJ is what's going in. I've pretty much decided to relocate the upper shock mount to accommodate this new rear end with the opposing mount.
I'm about to clean it up and install it, but I'm not sure where the inbound brake line goes. Does it attach onto what looks like a bleeder tip on the right of the brake line junction in the "New Close up" pic or is that the axle vent? I assume it's either that bleeder thing or the center hose. I cut my previous one because I couldn't figure out how to get it off of the axle.
Also, what should I clean this rear end with? Just mild detergent or should I hit the entire thing with brake parts cleaner or is that a bad idea?
Sorry for so many questions, but as much as I'm enjoying this learning process, and I am immensely, I'm still a complete Rookie.
I had to cut one of the rear leaf spring bolts off, but I'll replace that and the insert.
The rear axle with diff lid off is what came out of my truck. The other, a Chrysler 8.25" 3.54 ratio rear axle assembly out of a Jeep XJ is what's going in. I've pretty much decided to relocate the upper shock mount to accommodate this new rear end with the opposing mount.
I'm about to clean it up and install it, but I'm not sure where the inbound brake line goes. Does it attach onto what looks like a bleeder tip on the right of the brake line junction in the "New Close up" pic or is that the axle vent? I assume it's either that bleeder thing or the center hose. I cut my previous one because I couldn't figure out how to get it off of the axle.
Also, what should I clean this rear end with? Just mild detergent or should I hit the entire thing with brake parts cleaner or is that a bad idea?
Sorry for so many questions, but as much as I'm enjoying this learning process, and I am immensely, I'm still a complete Rookie.
Attachments
-
541.2 KB Views: 184 -
532.1 KB Views: 164 -
375.5 KB Views: 179 -
437.2 KB Views: 194 -
554.8 KB Views: 170 -
347.1 KB Views: 205
Here is the same picture of what I think is the brake line with a red arrow drawn to it. Is this the brake line or am I going to have to replace the entire brake line junction thing?(sorry, I don't know the name)
Thanks for any responses and guidance.
Thanks for any responses and guidance.
Attachments
-
542.3 KB Views: 184
That white plastic thing is probably supposed to be a vent; on my 1988, the T-block is held in place by the axle/diff vent tube (which just has some rubber hose up into the frame to let it vent any fumes out.)
You realize you're going to raise the rear end quite a bit (about 3" IIRC) with the spring seats on the top, right?
RwP
You realize you're going to raise the rear end quite a bit (about 3" IIRC) with the spring seats on the top, right?
RwP
Actually, I was told it's going to lift it about 5 inches, which would be weird so high in the back, so I'm installing a flip kit. Any suggestions? I can't seem to find one specifically for my Dakota. Should I get a kit for XJ because of the axle?That white plastic thing is probably supposed to be a vent; on my 1988, the T-block is held in place by the axle/diff vent tube (which just has some rubber hose up into the frame to let it vent any fumes out.)
You realize you're going to raise the rear end quite a bit (about 3" IIRC) with the spring seats on the top, right?
RwP
Oh, and does that plastic thing need a hose?
The plastic thing needs a hose, yes.
As to the flip kit, I dunno ... I'd ask the shop doing the work if they could cut the perches off your old axle and weld them onto the new one.
Or just find a Dakota 8.25 rear end, and sell that XJ rear end.
RwP
As to the flip kit, I dunno ... I'd ask the shop doing the work if they could cut the perches off your old axle and weld them onto the new one.
Or just find a Dakota 8.25 rear end, and sell that XJ rear end.
RwP
Lol, there's no shop. I'm doing the work myself. I'm not going to cut the perches off and modify the rear end. That way if this doesn't work, I can sell it in it's original form. There are some universal flip kits. I assume one of those will do as long as the U bolts fit around my axle.The plastic thing needs a hose, yes.
As to the flip kit, I dunno ... I'd ask the shop doing the work if they could cut the perches off your old axle and weld them onto the new one.
Or just find a Dakota 8.25 rear end, and sell that XJ rear end.
RwP
Oh, and the brake line with the tee is part #V1128096AA . I'm ordering that to complete this job.
*frowns*
I'd ask someone who's used a flip kit ... I'd rather have secure spring perches welded to the axle tubes personally.
That said - the flip kit for the Jeep XJ would be what I'd look for, since the flip kit needs to fit the axle.
Of course, you've checked that the out to out on the axle is the same, and that the center to center on the spring perches are the same, right?
Most of the flip kit may not be needed - the shackles and mounts for your current springs, for instance, should still work fine.
RwP
I'd ask someone who's used a flip kit ... I'd rather have secure spring perches welded to the axle tubes personally.
That said - the flip kit for the Jeep XJ would be what I'd look for, since the flip kit needs to fit the axle.
Of course, you've checked that the out to out on the axle is the same, and that the center to center on the spring perches are the same, right?
Most of the flip kit may not be needed - the shackles and mounts for your current springs, for instance, should still work fine.
RwP
21 - 40 of 55 Posts
- This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Dakota Durango Forum
A forum community dedicated to all Dodge Dakota and Durango owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about modifications, troubleshooting, towing capacity, maintenance, and more!
Full Forum Listing
