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· All or none user
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108 Posts
I have some 1.7 HS rockers for the 3.9 available if you're interested. They're a pretty nice addition for towing. Results are around a towing cam upgrade, but without the PITA install.

Also, hands-down, the most tq kick you'll get for the 3.9 will be an upgraded tq converter. APS Precision makes a nice one for us w/ a 2.5:1 tq multiplication :mullet: Out of the hole/off the line, you'll get the kick of a 360(will GREATLY help to get your load moving w/ the 3.9). The downside for anyone on a budget is the $250 price tag (after you return your stock unit). However, don't go wild with the stall (2500 max for towing, IMO), and you'll get more grunt for the money than some of the other upgrades together.
 

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570 Posts
I have some 1.7 HS rockers for the 3.9 available if you're interested. They're a pretty nice addition for towing. Results are around a towing cam upgrade, but without the PITA install.

Also, hands-down, the most tq kick you'll get for the 3.9 will be an upgraded tq converter. APS Precision makes a nice one for us w/ a 2.5:1 tq multiplication :mullet: Out of the hole/off the line, you'll get the kick of a 360(will GREATLY help to get your load moving w/ the 3.9). The downside for anyone on a budget is the $250 price tag (after you return your stock unit). However, don't go wild with the stall (2500 max for towing, IMO), and you'll get more grunt for the money than some of the other upgrades together.
I took a look at APS...I had a feeling this was a bad choice on dodges part to stick that converter behind the 3.9 and yes the 3.9 could greatly benifit from a looser converter. Heres another thing, There are a lot of those old converters laying around in the bone yards up here. I'm going to talk to the guy who built my Torque Converter from my '88 today and see how much he would want to use a used torque converter shell and build me one. When He built the one for my '88, he wanted to know everything about the truck and what i'd be doing with it. He purpose built it for what I wanted and it does everything he said it would. He also builds torque converters for stock, towing, tractor pulling, drag racing, pro mod... anything, he will build it.his bussiness is called BDR Converters (Brian Doan).

I'm gonna see how much he wants to build it vs. how much APS wants.

Hey, thanks for the info!!!!
 

· DrPepper
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1,044 Posts
Intake manifold modification

cut the runners up 1 - 1 1/2" so she can breath. The Throttle Body change is only the outside step. There are lots of threads on this mod. When I first got my QC it couldn't get to '90 on the flat. It's a 5 speed, last week I dropped into 4th gear and pulled strong to 105mph before I hit traffic and backed off.

Warlock, how and where did you install the IAT Sensor, in the air hat? Did you do a thread on the install?
 

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cut the runners up 1 - 1 1/2" so she can breath. The Throttle Body change is only the outside step. There are lots of threads on this mod. When I first got my QC it couldn't get to '90 on the flat. It's a 5 speed, last week I dropped into 4th gear and pulled strong to 105mph before I hit traffic and backed off.

Warlock, how and where did you install the IAT Sensor, in the air hat? Did you do a thread on the install?
I went to the junk yard and heisted an IAT out of a 1999 318 Ram van. I left the existing IAT in the manifold (I use this when I'm not looking for power, but rather fuel economy) and lengthend the wires on the existing plug so that it would reach the spot where I decided to put the 2nd IAT in my tube (existing hole). Thats pretty much it. You can use an IAT out of the V8's or V6's. They are all the same.

 

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Always start with the simple (cheap) stuff:

The cheap stuff:

1. Do a tuneup. Replace wires, cap, and rotor. Buy a set of Autolite 3923 spark plugs.

2. Run a can of seafoam through the throttle body with the engine running hot, and a can through the gas tank. Look for instructions on the site on how to do this. Clean IAC plunger in the rear.

3. Replace stock intake assembly with any of the aftermarket ones. (There are tons of them: on ebay, through various online dealers. Take your pick. Some are cheaper than others.) You can even build your own using PVC.

4. Replace the stock 195* tstat with a 180*. Should cost 5$ if you have the tools and extensions to get it out.

The moderately expensive stuff.

5. Grab a Fastman throttle body directly from "the fastman" or get a V8 throttle body sold here. Check the sellers forum. Should be around 50$. Fastman TB's are around $200-250.

6. Harland Sharp 1.7 Roller Rockers. Straight bolt-on. Should not requier fancy tools or knowledge. Just bolt them in. HS sells them directly for 260$. This causes no loss of low-end torque and noticeably increases power after 3000rpms. part is #S70047 (You might want to have someone knowledgeable within reach should you install, so they can guide you through it or inspect the work after its done)

7. Superchips 3815. Another big improvement overall. Should be around 350$ or so. Simplest mod to do. You can also grab a part # 3715 if you want to go cheaper, but the newer one allows online updates. Don't overpay for this.


8. Replace the stock cooling fan with a black magic 150 electric fan. I did this to mine and never had any cooling issues. Might not recommend for you if you have the combination shroud (the one that includes the winshield and radiator resevoirs as they can be a pain to replace/re-route) The black magic should be anywhere from 200-300 bucks.

The harder stuff (more expensive)

9. Port the intake runners on the manifold or buy a ported intake manifold from Hughes. ( check here) The manifolds they port are VERY well tuned to our stock engines. I used to have one and was very happy with their performance. about 400$ and you will need to send in your stock one. If you've never done this before I recommend you get some assistance with installing it.

10. Grab a set of gears for your differential. Determine your differential type (Should be 8.25 or 9.25) and what gear you have already (Im thinking 3.55). Buy a ring/pinion gear two steps up. (Example: you have a 3.55, the next step up is a 3.92. You skip over and get a 4.10)
This mod can get expensive and requires professional install. However, it is probably one of the biggest improvements you can make. It may cause some loss if fuel economy. We can point you in the right direction if you're interested in hearing more.


I wont touch heads/cam/converter/internals as I don't think you are interested in going that far.
 

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570 Posts
Always start with the simple (cheap) stuff:

The cheap stuff:

1. Do a tuneup. Replace wires, cap, and rotor. Buy a set of Autolite 3923 spark plugs.

2. Run a can of seafoam through the throttle body with the engine running hot, and a can through the gas tank. Look for instructions on the site on how to do this. Clean IAC plunger in the rear.

3. Replace stock intake assembly with any of the aftermarket ones. (There are tons of them: on ebay, through various online dealers. Take your pick. Some are cheaper than others.) You can even build your own using PVC.

4. Replace the stock 195* tstat with a 180*. Should cost 5$ if you have the tools and extensions to get it out.

The moderately expensive stuff.

5. Grab a Fastman throttle body directly from "the fastman" or get a V8 throttle body sold here. Check the sellers forum. Should be around 50$. Fastman TB's are around $200-250.

6. Harland Sharp 1.7 Roller Rockers. Straight bolt-on. Should not requier fancy tools or knowledge. Just bolt them in. HS sells them directly for 260$. This causes no loss of low-end torque and noticeably increases power after 3000rpms. part is #S70047 (You might want to have someone knowledgeable within reach should you install, so they can guide you through it or inspect the work after its done)

7. Superchips 3815. Another big improvement overall. Should be around 350$ or so. Simplest mod to do. You can also grab a part # 3715 if you want to go cheaper, but the newer one allows online updates. Don't overpay for this.


8. Replace the stock cooling fan with a black magic 150 electric fan. I did this to mine and never had any cooling issues. Might not recommend for you if you have the combination shroud (the one that includes the winshield and radiator resevoirs as they can be a pain to replace/re-route) The black magic should be anywhere from 200-300 bucks.

The harder stuff (more expensive)

9. Port the intake runners on the manifold or buy a ported intake manifold from Hughes. ( check here) The manifolds they port are VERY well tuned to our stock engines. I used to have one and was very happy with their performance. about 400$ and you will need to send in your stock one. If you've never done this before I recommend you get some assistance with installing it.

10. Grab a set of gears for your differential. Determine your differential type (Should be 8.25 or 9.25) and what gear you have already (Im thinking 3.55). Buy a ring/pinion gear two steps up. (Example: you have a 3.55, the next step up is a 3.92. You skip over and get a 4.10)
This mod can get expensive and requires professional install. However, it is probably one of the biggest improvements you can make. It may cause some loss if fuel economy. We can point you in the right direction if you're interested in hearing more.


I wont touch heads/cam/converter/internals as I don't think you are interested in going that far.

I totally agree with ya with all the stuff ya said here. Nice set of guidelines to follow man!

To avoid the lost fuel econmy with a gear change, I would recomend a different torque converter instead of the gear change. The determining factory would be the involvement on completing such a task.The factory torque converter is the main reason why this things can't get out of their own way off idle. With a looser converter, the engine will be able to get into its powerband faster, give you even more torque multiplication (much like a gear change would) but would still give you the 1:1 lock up option while cruising and still maintain good fuel ecconomy.

It is pretty involved to change a torque converter, but I feel this would probably be the biggest improvement that could be made to improve the bottom end power with the most rewards and positive effects.
 

· All or none user
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108 Posts
I wont touch heads/cam/converter/internals as I don't think you are interested in going that far.
Speaking from much experience with both, a gear swap is a bit more involved/detailed than a converter swap. The converter job is just removal and replacement - no adjusting of anything (it's a great time to change that dirty fluid, to boot). The cost for either should be roughly the same.
 

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Just so ya'll know there is no superchips for 97 or older 3.9L Magnums.
 

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21 Posts
I did see a dual 2 1/2 in cat back exhaust system for the 3.9L V-6 from LMC for $269 for the 1999 dodge dakota pick up!! :) Headers are another way to increase performance, cooler T-Stat 180*, intake sensor relocate to cold air intake tube to trick the computer thinking it's running cooler, S-bolt to replace the stock air hat for a better air filter set up, super and turbo chargers, changing the gear ratio in the rear end, sway bar removal, port and polishing the intake manifold and heads. When rebuilding your 3.9L upgrade some parts, such as the cam shaft by calling the company and giving them info of what you are trying to accomplish, roller rockers. I just saw the hot rod info on upgrading the 3.9L so it's a screaming little machine!! :) hope this helps also sending the computer chip out and having it reprogrammed is also highly suggested too.
 

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247 Posts
Some one just mentioned a throttle body from a V-8 to put on a V-6, which V-8 tb would be best, the 5.2 or 5.9?
5.2/5.9 use the same 50mm TB. From my experience a V8 TB on a V6 engine causes some torque loss because you can't take full advantage of V8 air flow because the bores on the V6 intake is only 44mm.

But if you want to give it a try, depending on the year of your truck, you'll need to get a EGR TB ('95 down) or non-EGR ('96 up) so your throttle cable end will match up.
 
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