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Discussion Starter #1
02 dakota using d44 front d60 rear from 79 f250

1) Im going to use the steering box from the f250, im planning on just getting new ends for it but what line from the stock pump goes to which hole in the f250 box

2) I have seen people installing a "tone-ring" and sensor. What is that for? I thought that the speed sensor went into the transmission? Do i need to do this?

3) ABS delete (might have to do with the tone-ring) but i know i wont have front abs anymore will my abs light be going nuts because that will bug the crap out of me! how do i get rid of that?

4) does anyone know if the break-lines are comparable or do i need to get an adapter line. ( i plan on extending anyway)

5) THE DANG OLD PUSH PULL STEARING!! i cant get the stooped arm off any advice?? i pulled off all three nuts and iv been hammering and pb blasting the heck out of it but it wont even budge.. then after i get that off, how do i remove the studs?

Thanks for the help im going to keep this open if i have anymore questions because im sure i will.

Im not a paid member so my posting pics are limited, so here is the build pics so far on my fb page, if anyone is interested?

http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.440018789393243.99701.206886602706464&type=1
 

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I think that is the box Nick02 used so you may find a picture in his thread. One will be high pressure and the other fitting low pressure.

Do you have an auto or manual transmission? Tone ring is for the speedo and may control the shifting of an auto tranny but am not sure since mine is a manual.

For ABS, if you are just worried about the light, pull the bulb from the cluster. I bypassed/removed the ABS unit and pulled the bulb, no issues.

For the brake lines, I had custom ones made that matched the factory fitting. On the 98 the fittings were metric. You could also cut and re-flare the lines and switch the fittings to SAE. That is what I ended up doing in the rear.

Have you tried heat on the push/pull arm? Maybe try heating the arm then spraying the studs with some air from a compressed air can turned upside down to shrink the studs?

You can post pictures without paying...just use photobucket to host them and use the
 

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Discussion Starter #3
hey thanks for all of your help! Ill try to check out nicks but im still open for a better answer on that first question. i know im lame but like "this line goes to the small hole on the box" would be great haha. but anyway i do have a manual transmission so that is a relief!! about the light yea thats what i was thinking.. and ill try to head that POS up its giving me hell thats for sure.
thanks again i appreciate it!
 

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Frog Legs
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The dakots uses a bubble flare on the brake lines. I simply cut the bubble flares off on the front and re "double flared them to sae. The rear lines got adapters from bubble to regular double flare since I could not get the brake line cutting tool near enough the bubble flare to cut them off. By yourself a quality flaring kit and you will have no leaks. I bought a cheap kit and I got very frusterated because it would not flare correctly. I ended up buying the good kit.



The tone ring is a geared sprocket that goes inside the diff and acts as a pickup to the speed sensor. This is something I am going to do in the future to get my speedo working again. But for now my gps makes a good speedo.
 

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hey thanks for all of your help! Ill try to check out nicks but im still open for a better answer on that first question. i know im lame but like "this line goes to the small hole on the box" would be great haha. but anyway i do have a manual transmission so that is a relief!! about the light yea thats what i was thinking.. and ill try to head that POS up its giving me hell thats for sure.
thanks again i appreciate it!
I will look at mine when I get home, I know that one fitting is larger than the other
 

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also will the stock threads from the brake lines just thread in or do i need new nuts?
What do you mean by this?

The brake fitting are cheap so I would take the lines you are trying to use to the parts store and just piece together what you need from the rack. It is cheap enough you don't need to try to reuse parts, I pay around $2.50 for a pack of 5 fittings from Autozone if I remember correctly. Most places will let you go in the back and figure it out, don't have them try to look up the application for you or anything like that
 

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Frog Legs
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Buy the flex line for your year of axles that way they will be the right ones. Once you have all the new lines including new banjo's from the caliper up to the the factory hard line, cut off the factory flare and get new fittings to match the lines you just bought. Slip the new fittings onto the factory hardline, re flare the line and connect. That was the hardest part of my swap was figuring out the brake lines. Gravity bleed and your done....well check for leaks too of course. Don't overthink things. Just buy the brake lines for your year and make of axle and then go from there. Don't try and make old shit work.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
sounds good thanks guys.. any word on what line goes to what for the power steering NorCal? any suggestions for that?
 

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cheak the hoses.One of them might have hose clamps on it and the other has threaded fittings on each end.Thats the high ,the one with hose clamps is the low preasure
 
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