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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Who these days makes a good quality master cylinder for a 01 Durango? I don't want Chinese and I don't want reman.
I thought I had a made in USA Wagner from rock auto (last one they had) and it came up as listed for my Durango but it had 4 threaded outlets where any Dakota or Durango of these years only have 2.
Seems like a bad parts listing. I sent it back.
Maybe I could have just put plugs in the extra 2 ports but I ain't Mickey mouse-ing my brakes.
My wife mostly drives it, and I pull a camper with it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Nobody has replaced a master cylinder? On anything? CMON GUYS!!!
I have scouted Rock auto, and the "grocery store" style parts stores.... each place I went the prices went higher. I am not comfortable with "house brands" cuz I really don't know who made it.... and I've been down the 3 master cylinder, 4 master cylinder road before, before I got 1 good unit. Don't wanna play that game. Is Centric any good? what about the traditional Raybestos, Bendix, Wagner? That said, I know that all 3 of these "legacy" brands are owned by different companies than they were during the "glory days"....
I found a Bendix for a cheap price on Ebay.... there were 2 Bendix MC's listed among Ebay, same exact Bendix brand and PN, both brand new, included reservoir (I hate having to transfer an old one, been there done that, in my job/ too many times over the years espescially with a reman. ) one Bendix unit was 1/2 the price of the other...I love finding top quality parts at cheap prices.... . IS Bendix still made in US or Canada? or is it Chinesium? I haven't bought one yet.
 

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1988 Dodge Dakota LWB RC 3.9V6 3 speed auto
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I did one in my 1988; but the master cylinder in it was a new Raybestos unit.

Centric seems to get good reviews; I have a new Centric rear brake hose I plan to put on before I need to, but haven't gotten to it yet.

IIRC, the Raybestos was "Hecho en Mexico" but it's been since July 4th weekend that I put it on.

RwP
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
Well, Id rather have what these companies made back in the good old days.... of course.
but if I had a choice and it wasnt made in USA, or wasnt made in Canada, Id rather have "made in Mexico over "made in China"....
10 years ago I used to go from parts store to parts store, if the 1st one set something "made in China" on the counter, I left it and went down the road and didnt have to go too many places before I got something made somewhere better.
I can't be the only one SICK AND TIRED of converting my made in Michigan Durango, slowly to a "made in China" vehicle, as I maintain it these days.... Im at 286K miles, and not done with it til it's rotted into the ground. It has damn little rust, I bought it out of the south. My wife usually drives it and likes it too much. We have had it 9 years, so far.
I just had to replace the drivers door window switch... that too came from fucking China.....

On that note I have an 85 D-150 that I am slowly gathering parts to restore it. I went down to GA earlier this year and picked up a trailer load of rust free, original sheet metal for it, actually more than what this truck will need..... (but it was all part of the deal) I am overhauling a Slant Six to go back into it, but with significantly more power than the original one.... My parts all came from Ebay, a couple at a time, from some brands that no longer exist, and other brands who still exist in name only, the parts I have been accumulating have been coming in with lots of thick dust on the boxes.... brand new parts, some older than the truck they are going on, itself.
I don't get rid of vehicles very often, nor have I ever bought brand new..... I wont buy a Toyota or Hon-duh or Kia or Hyundai. Not in my driveway!
I have always dealt with machines whether they be cars, trucks, industrial machinery, tractors, mowers, go carts, and they all need maintenance at some point. I also do not believe in the "throw a way world" mentality, nor do I pay anyone else to work on my vehicles..... I get the goody out of anything I buy, and when it leaves me it truly IS ready for scrap.
Among the things I hate are re do's..... and on something like a master cylinder I've done the "replace 3-4 (and more) before I get a good one" dance. Whether my own vehicles, or not it pisses me off. The master cylinder I have now has been on there for the whole 286K miles this Durango has been on the road. While I dont expect to still have it in another 286K, a master cylinder is something I don't expect to replace more than once in a given vehicles' lifetime, or at least once every 75-100K miles.
I have made my living "wrenching" since I was 18, and I am 54 now. and I have to say that brakes suspension/steering and electrical are no place to cut corners..... never have been, though people try to every day.
 

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1988 Dodge Dakota LWB RC 3.9V6 3 speed auto
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I abso-dam-lutely agree with not cutting corners on suspension, steering, or brakes! And electrical - well, I'm an Electronics Technician so no, I don't cut corners. At all.

If I can do it myself, I usually do. If I can't do a good enough job, I hunt for the best at it, and follow Pournelle's Law ("Open your wallet, smile, and keep smiling while they help themselves until they get tired. If that bothers you, DO IT YOURSELF." )

RwP
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
DAMMIT!!!! SOB!! I found a Bendix for my Durango, at what I thought was a good deal..... brand new not reman....like I wanted.
I thought it was a good deal on a long standing brand that has been around nearly since cars were invented.... I do prefer name brand parts over "house brand"... My new MC came today.... still in its original box, though looking at it it's been on the shelf a while.... That's the good... the bad ???? Nothing is sacred, the box says in bold print, MADE in CHINA!!!! DAMMIT!!! I do all I can, to AVOID that shit!
 

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According to Dodges RepairLink system, that master cylinder is still available.
Part number 5093049AA, lists for $375.00. I installed one of these master cylinders
when I switched from vacuum boost to hydroboost on 2002 Dakota.
It might sound like alot, but if your old one lasted this long, WHY NOT
What ever you decide to do, bleed the whole system until new fluid
comes out all 4 wheels
Good Luck, Daddyododge
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Yup. I get ya on the bleeding, I am a fleet mechanic for the state/plenty of brake repair experience.
But, in my case I just bench bled it, and then bled the lines at the master once connected, pedal is night and day better than before.
We took a road trip of ~2000 miles just a few months ago, and just prior (like 2 days before) it got new hoses, new calipers and new wheel cylinders. So the fluid got flushed very well then.So the fluid is reasonably fresh. When I put the master on I had limited assistance to bleed, so I had to do what I had to do.. work with what I had available.
have some other work to do on this Durango in the upcoming week, I'll have it up on the lift and the wheels off, I'll have to bleed it at the wheels then, just to be sure.
 

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1988 Dodge Dakota LWB RC 3.9V6 3 speed auto
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It's the "It's only me!" as the reason why I use a pneumatic bleeder.

I buy a cheap one, use it until it breaks, and buy another one.

If I were a professional mechanic, I'd have a Snap On or some other professional grade unit.

Since I'm not (I'd be a shade tree mechanic if my tree had shade!), I use this AmazonSmile: Thorstone Pneumatic Brake Fluid Bleeder Tool Kit, 1L Vacuum Brake Oil Change Set with Extractor and Refill Bottle +4 Master Cylinder Adapters + 2 Air Quick Plugs, for Car, Truck, Motorcycle 90-120PSI : Automotive .

Beats having to fight with getting them bled by myself.

Never have had good luck with self-bleeders; gravity bleeding doesn't work unless I leave it a long time, then it suddenly empties the reservoir and I'm back where I was.

RwP
 

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Never have had good luck with self-bleeders; gravity bleeding doesn't work unless I leave it a long time, then it suddenly empties the reservoir and I'm back where I was.
HAHAHHHA been there ( what the crap happened it was fine 30 mins ago after the 7 hrs I waited) LOL
 

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1988 Dodge Dakota LWB RC 3.9V6 3 speed auto
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It's amazing how fast a slow drip can empty a brake system ...

Sometimes just enough time to cook a burger and eat it.

When you've been checking it for, as you said, 7 hours or so.

Blargh.

At least it's under my control with the pneumatic bleeder.

And those don't take that much air; I have an ancient (well, 20 year old!) Craftsman oilless air compressor without a tank I use for my air needs around here (airing up tires, bleeding brakes, etc.)

RwP
 
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