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a drunken dakotaholic
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724 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Well I finally have got off my ass to attempt to fix my trucks blown belly pan gasket by installing my 4bbl m1 with 2bbl in the place of my stock intake manifold.

I got a late start around 4pm on it today so only got a couple things completed. I am going to documenting the whole process that way if any one else wants to do it they can get an idea on what it takes to install it.



Before I took the TB off



After I took the TB off



After I took off the altenator



After I took off the Ac Compressor


After I took of the Ac/Altenator Bracket

I will hopefully get a chance tomorrow to take the fuel rails/injectors out as well as remove the stock manifold. I am awaiting an install kit and should be getting in shortly.

It only took me about 2 hours to do all that and that includes time to find the tools etc....



does any one know how to make the pics show up in the thread? I put [.img] value [./img] around the url but it wont show up. I also noticed at the bottom of the posting page it says IMG is off, how do i turn it on?
 

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Home Owner....
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1,722 Posts
looking good so far. nows a good time to do that deep detail cleaning. hopefully ya gota new bypass hose and t-stat. you should also geta AIT sensor extension kit in that install kit cuz it goes under the TB now.

also seen a air temp gage probe put there and the AIT sensor inthe air tube just after the air filter. an idea.
 

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a drunken dakotaholic
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724 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Well today i got the following completed (more pics coming)

Removed fuel rail and injectors
Drained Coolant
Removed Hose
Removed all manifold bolts

Had an issue getting the manifold off, turns out i think i need to remove my edelbrock valve covers. Was going to get that done but ran out of day light.

I was also wondering how much more labor it would take to replace my piston rings? I mean if i replace those my truck will no longer smoke or burn oil. I know i would have to remove the heads, but how many more steps would it take to replace the piston rings?
 

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Sideways on Sundays
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984 Posts
sicminds said:
Well today i got the following completed (more pics coming)

Removed fuel rail and injectors
Drained Coolant
Removed Hose
Removed all manifold bolts

Had an issue getting the manifold off, turns out i think i need to remove my edelbrock valve covers. Was going to get that done but ran out of day light.

I was also wondering how much more labor it would take to replace my piston rings? I mean if i replace those my truck will no longer smoke or burn oil. I know i would have to remove the heads, but how many more steps would it take to replace the piston rings?
It's quite a bit more labor. In order to remove your pistons you have to get into the bottom end of the motor. Remove oil pan, main bearings, connecting rods, crank, etc. To my knowledge you can't do rings from the top of the motor.
 

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a drunken dakotaholic
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724 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
man thats a bummer, i thought i heard you could do it from the top of the motor guess i heard wrong.
 

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Dakota for Life!
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1,961 Posts
You DO NOT need to remove the crank, or the crank journals to remove pistons. Yes, it would be much easier to just pull the motor out to do that kind of work. Don't forget that if you do decide to change the rings, get a "ridge reamer" to remove built up material at the top of the cylinders before you remove/replace the pistons. Not doing so may cause problems removing/replacing the pistons. IMO, pull the motor and do it all the right way. Good luck!
 

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ScojoDak said:
You DO NOT need to remove the crank, or the crank journals to remove pistons. Yes, it would be much easier to just pull the motor out to do that kind of work. Don't forget that if you do decide to change the rings, get a "ridge reamer" to remove built up material at the top of the cylinders before you remove/replace the pistons. Not doing so may cause problems removing/replacing the pistons. IMO, pull the motor and do it all the right way. Good luck!
You'd need to remove the fan to get to the connecting rods -- problem with the Dakota, it's a major pita, if not impossible to remove the pan with the motor still in the truck-- you could jack it, etc.. but @ that point-- best to just pull the motor---

Allows ya the luxuy to do the cam bearings, etc... cause if ya gonna rering it-- cam bearings will be worse off than piston rings 9/10 times.

Sam
www.socaldakota.com
619-274-1292

:drive:
 

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a drunken dakotaholic
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724 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
My only problem is that I am a apartment mechanic with walmart tools, lol. I am working with limited tools in my apartments parking lot.

What all is involved with pulling the block? Probably to much for me to handle.

I finaly got the manifold off after taking the driver side valve cover off. Its been fun so far and havent ran into to many snags. Once i get a chance I will post some more pics. I do say that the roller rockers i have are purrrrty
 

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a drunken dakotaholic
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724 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
just some more pics


Coolant Draining

Removed Fuel Rails and Hose

Oil in manifold

No fuel rails

Another front shot

Removed manifold and valve cover

Look at those pretty rockers

damaged valve cover :cussing:
 

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a drunken dakotaholic
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724 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
If you look at pic 15, is there not supposed to be oil in there? I was also wondering if there is another way for oil to get into the intake manifold beside the gasket failing?

I also just found that some thief took my valve cover, damn bastards! Any one got one lying around?
 

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Dakota for Life!
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You mean pic#12? A pcv valve failure might be the cause of oil in the intake. Not likely though. Sounds more like a plenum gasket problem.
 

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a drunken dakotaholic
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724 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
yes i did a compression test a while back and came back pretty bad. I mean pic 15 where you can see the pushrods. I am thinking about swamping out the headgaskets while i am in there.
 

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a leak down test is the proper way to do it. just make sure you crank it the same for all cylinders. if they are simillar all the way across you are fine. as for the oil in the intake, is it puddled up or just a film in there? if its a film then its fine. the pcv valve will create that. if you have large puddle then it is most likely a plenum gasket, as stated above.
 

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a drunken dakotaholic
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724 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
well i got the new gaskets in and when i went to put the m1 on it didn't sit correctly on the side that still had the valve cover on. So i am guessing that I need to remove both valve covers.

I was almost done taking out the second cover when the aparment manager came and told me i cant work on my truck there. whata bitch, so i guess i have to get up before the sun or before she does to finish.

wish me luck
 

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a drunken dakotaholic
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724 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I have a question. After reading differnt install instructions some mention to tighten manifold bolts to 12 and the other says to 17. Which one is it?

I was also wondering if I need to use a PCV valve or just run with two breathers. Because there are only 2 ports on the m1 and there where 3 on the stock beer barrel.

thanks!
 

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sicminds said:
I have a question. After reading differnt install instructions some mention to tighten manifold bolts to 12 and the other says to 17. Which one is it?

I was also wondering if I need to use a PCV valve or just run with two breathers. Because there are only 2 ports on the m1 and there where 3 on the stock beer barrel.

thanks!
the tq is 12ft/lb and yes you need to run the pcv valve.
 

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a drunken dakotaholic
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724 Posts
Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I have a port in the front and one in the back, can i just get a splitter and split the pvc and the brake one?

thanks again!
 
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