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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hello All, I have a 2000 Dakota SLT Ext. Cab with the stock stereo and speakers, I am looking to upgrade my Head unit and speakers, Down the road I will be buying a subwoofer. I'm currently looking at the Kenwood D558BT for a head unit and Kicker CS65 612's for speakers. Is this a good starter system? Anything better for a little more money?
All input is greatly appreciated!

Edit: Should I aslo get an amp for my truck or no?
 

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Kickers are overrated IMO. I've never been impressed with how they sound. They're pretty much walmart speakers. My recommendation is Alpine Type R components. They're a little pricier, and you'll have to cut a hole for the tweeter, but you get a whole lot more bang for the buck. These are the current version of the ones I have: http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_34364_Alpine-SPR-60C.html

An amp is always a good idea, but again, save up for something decent. Preferably vintage, because they sound better and are far more reliable than the chinese crap being sold today. I'm running an oldschool Rockford Punch that I got off ebay for $125.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the reply! I really like the power handling of these speakers, and they're not out of my price range. I have 3 questions though. 1. I'm new to this sort of stuff, Where could I get these speakers and an amp installed if I don't buy it in-store? 2. This package only has (2) speakers, do I buy another 2 pack or this package twice? 3. Where do the tweeters go?

Do you think you could recommend an amp for these? I don't really wanna overpower them to where they blow or to be underpowered. Really Appreciate it!

Edit: What do you think would be an overall price for a head unit the Alpine speakers and an amp? $600?
 

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speakers

In my opinion I would save the money and install it yourself instead of someone else doing it. It really isn't that hard to do and I'm sure people on here can help you with the install. Make sure you also get the wire harness for the aftermarket radio and also get the antenna adapter. Took me about 45 minutes to install new headunit and front door speakers. Only reason it took so long is because i reused the 6x9 memphis speakers i had in my old ranger and moved them to my dodge and had to do some cutting. If you have problems with set up just hit us up!
 

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I wouldn't get a reduced depth speaker for this. A component speaker would be better but also a little more work on the door installation. Standard speakers for the rear are fine. After doing my system I think an amp is a must. But think about if you want a 5 channel amp to run everything or two amps (1-4ch now for frt, rear, and 1 for sub later on) I have a thread here but it's a little more involved because I did the sound proofing also. A simple head unit and speaker swap is really easy, especially if you don't install an amp. I wouldn't pay someone to do that work.
 

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I'm new to the forum but have been doing car installs for a while. Not the shade tree stuff, but legitimate installs for a retailer. The thing you have to keep in mind is what is your HONEST budget going to be for everything. Focal speakers are one of my favorites, but they don't readily fit in everyone's budget. Look at the RMS rating for speakers you have listened to and like, then pair that with the power output of your head-unit. Under drive a great pair of speakers and they'll sound like junk. The HU you picked out has good room for growth with the 3 pairs of RCA outs so you have room to add amps and really tune your sound later. In my 99 I installed the amplified MTX thunderform box with 2 10's and I have thoroughly enjoyed it. I have had all kinds of speaker/amp combinations and before I had kids spent a lot of time building and tuning boxes for SPL and Sq. I'd say have a plan before you start in order to avoid buying the same things twice. Also don't forget to budget for wiring kits, Dynamat, and all the miscellaneous stuff needed to do a safe install (ie never use wire nuts in a car)
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I'll definitely look into self-installation, I was planning on doing Sirius antenna also would that change much on the difficulty of install?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I'm new to the forum but have been doing car installs for a while. Not the shade tree stuff, but legitimate installs for a retailer. The thing you have to keep in mind is what is your HONEST budget going to be for everything. Focal speakers are one of my favorites, but they don't readily fit in everyone's budget. Look at the RMS rating for speakers you have listened to and like, then pair that with the power output of your head-unit. Under drive a great pair of speakers and they'll sound like junk. The HU you picked out has good room for growth with the 3 pairs of RCA outs so you have room to add amps and really tune your sound later. In my 99 I installed the amplified MTX thunderform box with 2 10's and I have thoroughly enjoyed it. I have had all kinds of speaker/amp combinations and before I had kids spent a lot of time building and tuning boxes for SPL and Sq. I'd say have a plan before you start in order to avoid buying the same things twice. Also don't forget to budget for wiring kits, Dynamat, and all the miscellaneous stuff needed to do a safe install (ie never use wire nuts in a car)
I looked at focal speakers, they seem to handle a very low amount of power and are a little to pricey(some of them cost more than my truck is worth haha). Honest budget is 500-650, not including subwoofer. I like the kicker speakers because my dad had them in his 02 with the infinity HU (Sounded Amazing!), and are rated at 100 Watts RMS and 300 Watts peak.

I wouldn't get a reduced depth speaker for this. A component speaker would be better but also a little more work on the door installation. Standard speakers for the rear are fine. After doing my system I think an amp is a must. But think about if you want a 5 channel amp to run everything or two amps (1-4ch now for frt, rear, and 1 for sub later on) I have a thread here but it's a little more involved because I did the sound proofing also. A simple head unit and speaker swap is really easy, especially if you don't install an amp. I wouldn't pay someone to do that work.
I would probably go with (1) four channel and then a 1 for the sub later on. By standard speakers, what do you mean? Stock or just not as good as front? And will the amp power (1) front speaker and (1) tweeter or do I need a 6 channel amp? If there is such a thing, I am new to car stereos as you can tell.
 

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Just because 1 speaker has higher RMS wattage capabilities doesn't mean that particular speaker or brand is better. There are several other specs that can and will make a difference in how a speaker sounds. Focal speakers are pricy no doubt but when used in the right setting they sound absolutely amazing! Anything can sound good if properly used and tuned.

The 1st thing you will notice once you do change from the stock speakers to aftermarket is the lack of mid bass the factory speakers had. Why will this happen? Because the stock speakers are designed for that application while aftermarket are not.

Running a 4 channel is a good idea. I personally do not run rear speakers, personal preference. I don't like how my audio sounds when I have the rear speakers playing. It pulls the sound into the center of the cab, I like having the sound coming from in front of me like I'm at a concert.

By running just front speakers, a 2ch amp (50x2), and head unit you could do all that for around $200 or less if you did some searching. You'd have $300-$400 left for a decent sub and amp.

The audio in my '00 Dakota cost me a total of $200. Keep in mind none of it was newer then 2005. It's all used and a mix of ebay, store close outs, salvage yard, and craigslist.

Alpine CD Player Apr. '05: $30 from the salvage yard I worked at.
Eclipse 6.5" 3-way coaxials: $15 right off the display boards at circuit city when they closed down.
Autotek ATX950.4: $45 shipped from ebay. 2 channels did not work, okay for me because I only need 2 anyway.
Kicker CVR 10" sub: Bought used for $60 from craigslist.
MTX Audio 251D (250x1 @2ohm): Bought used from a local dakota owner from these forums for $20.
Dual 10" ported sub box: This was the only thing I bought that was somewhat new from one of the local flea markets at $40. Guy wanted $75 originally.
 

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By standard he means "coaxial". Those are the ones that have the tweeter on a bracket suspended across the woofer. "Component" speakers are the ones that have a separate woofer, tweeter, and crossover.

You don't need separate amps for the component tweeters. You wire each amp channel to the crossover (which will be included with the speakers), then the crossover has outputs for the woofer and tweeter.

As far as Kickers being fed by a stock Infinity system sounding "awesome", I have to question that because the OEM Infinity systems - head units, amps, and speakers - are utter garbage. They are really an embarassment to the Infinity name.

You'll have many more options as far as finding a decent 4 channel amp than a 5 channel. 5 channels are also far more expensive. Just get a 4 channel now and get a monoblock that's matched to whatever sub you choose later.

I also recommend you run all new 14 or 12 ga speaker wires. The factory wiring is 20ga - which is not suitable for high power over the length found in the truck.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
By standard he means "coaxial". Those are the ones that have the tweeter on a bracket suspended across the woofer. "Component" speakers are the ones that have a separate woofer, tweeter, and crossover.

You don't need separate amps for the component tweeters. You wire each amp channel to the crossover (which will be included with the speakers), then the crossover has outputs for the woofer and tweeter.

As far as Kickers being fed by a stock Infinity system sounding "awesome", I have to question that because the OEM Infinity systems - head units, amps, and speakers - are utter garbage. They are really an embarassment to the Infinity name.

You'll have many more options as far as finding a decent 4 channel amp than a 5 channel. 5 channels are also far more expensive. Just get a 4 channel now and get a monoblock that's matched to whatever sub you choose later.

I also recommend you run all new 14 or 12 ga speaker wires. The factory wiring is 20ga - which is not suitable for high power over the length found in the truck.
I liked the sound of the speakers, I will definitely run new 12 guage speaker wire, how much wire would you say is found in the truck?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I have come into some money and will be doing Speaker and amp along with the subwoofer and amp, I'm looking at this combo: http://www.audiosavings.com/products/Car-Subwoofer-Amplifier-Enclosure-Packages/Kicker-40CWRT102-10-CompRT10-1200W-Car-SubwooferZRX1200.1D-AmpVented-Sub-Box/40CWRT102---RSV10---K1---ZRX1200.1D.aspx

Question time.
IS this a good price?
Is it a good setup?
Has anyone here ever ordered from audiosavings.com?
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Questions about whole system:
Front speakers-
http://www.audiosavings.com/products/6.5-and-6.75-Car-Speakers/Alpine-SPR-60C-6.5-2-Way-Pair-Of-Component-Car-Speakerd-660-Watts-Type-R/SPR-60C.aspx
Rear speakers-http://www.audiosavings.com/products/6.5-and-6.75-Car-Speakers/Alpine-SPR-60-6.5-2-Way-Car-Speakers-Pair---600-Watts-Type-R-SPR60/SPR-60.aspx
Amplifier-http://www.audiosavings.com/products/4-Channel-Car-Amplifier/Kicker-41DXA2504-D-Series-4-Channel-60Wx4-Full-Range-Car-Amplifier-Amp-DXA250.4/41DXA2504.aspx
Does this amplifier put out an adequate amount of power for the speakers?
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Random questions:
Will I be able to run all this stuff without having an extra battery/power cell/bigger alternator? I would not mind changing the alternator cause its been messing up lately anyways.
Can somebody throw out a estimate of what it would cost to get the head unit installed and setup for both amps? ill be installing the following: All speakers and the amp, subwoofer and amp, but ill probably have someone else run the speaker wire.

A long read I know but Thanks for your reply in advance!
 

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I don't consider that a great deal and would keep looking. Because of your experience I would seriously consider buying Crutchfield are SonicElectronix if you don't go with someone local. Crutchfield typically includes the adapters that you need and both have installation help you can call.

I would consider the 4ch amp a little under powered.

You should be able to run all of this on the stock electrical but it should be in good shape and you will have to run power cables for the amps from the battery. If your going to have a shop do any of this go talk to them first. Maybe they can cut you some slack, maybe it should be in a certain order so your not stepping on each others toes, or ripping each others work out, especially when it comes to speaker wire. You won't save anything doing your own speakers since you have to pull the speakers to run the wire. So if you do you own speakers you should run your own wire. And with the adapters anymore the head unit is fairly easy. Again, there are many detailed threads around with pics show the installs so really think about what you want and how you want it, then go discuss with a couple of reputable shops in your area and see which direction you want to go.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Just found an Amp on craigslist, Its a KAC-8405.
Heres the info from the guy: KENWOOD AMP (INDOOR SPEAKERS) ($70 OBO)
I also have a fan cooled Kenwood amp KAC-8405 for my indoor speakers for sale which is listed new at $109 and since mine is still in great condition I would like to get $70 for it.

4-channel car amplifier
60 watts RMS x 4 at 4 ohms (90 watts x 4 at 2 ohms)
180 watts RMS x 2 bridged output at 4 ohms (4 ohm stable in bridged mode)
2-, 3-, and 4-channel operation
CEA-2006 compliant
variable high- and low-pass filters (50-200 Hz, 12 dB per octave)
variable bass boost (0-18 dB at 40 Hz)
dual cooling fans
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Figure that's a little better than the kicker amp I was looking at.
Also found someone to install everything, he used to work at a rather high dollar car audio place. Said hell install head unit, speakers and amp, Sub and amp, and also Run speaker wire, all for $70!
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I've decided to do the alpine spr-60c (front) and kicker coaxials (Rear) as I mentioned in the op, that's pretty much set in stone, along with the head unit. Still very open to recomendations for sub and amp. Thanks for all the help so far everyone!
 

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Look on Sonicelectronix.com. There is a lot of aftermarket on that site. I would stay away from Boss, Pyle, Soundstorm, etc.. Those are just a few of the cheap aftermarket speakers with horrible designs.. I currently running all Alpine in my truck, except the headunit which is JVC. And now I wish I would have gotten an Alpine headunit cause the touchscreen is starting to go out.. They also have at least a 1 year warranty on everything and free shipping on mostly everything except sub boxes cause they are so big.
 

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Ill post what I have in my truck right now.

These are the subs, I have two of them.
http://www.alpine-usa.com/product/view/swr-12d2/

These are the component speakers. I have one pair in the front doors, nothing in the rear.
http://www.alpine-usa.com/product/view/spr-60c/

This is the amplifier for the speakers. I bridged two channels to run one speaker cause they are made to handle 110 watts.
http://www.alpine-usa.com/product/view/mrv-f300/default

This is the amplifier for the subwoofers. This is a true monster of an amp with 2000 watts RMS at 2 ohms. It works REALLY well for protection too.
http://www.alpine-usa.com/product/view/mrp-m2000/

And finally this is my headunit. I do NOT recommend it cause it is starting to fail after a year of usage..
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-zke3JwnrOhU/p_105KWAV60B/JVC-KW-AV60BT.html
 

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I agree that Kickers are overrated. I have them only because they had the shallowest I could find at the time. I could have gotten a lot better stuff for less money but they still get the job done.
 

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I am new to car audio myself. I contacted crutchfield and they have helped a ton. I need some help though from those with knowledge on dakotas. I have a 2000 CC with a infinity system. I apparently have been under powering a new set of speakers I bought for it with the stock infinity amp. Crutchfield helped me decide on a new amp and power/ground wires kit but I just am not sure how to wire it up along with getting rid of the stock infinity amp since there are . Any help would be much appreciated. Also I currently have a Pioneer DEH-X6700BT head unit with 2 red and 2 white rca inputs, idk if that info will help or not.

Thanks
 
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