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JM Long tube headers, the inside story

68K views 236 replies 43 participants last post by  SinCity R/T 
#1 ·
OK, we all read the 8 pages of stuff in the "swap" section. So, I wanted to answer a few questions for you guys cause I saw alot of nonsense posted.

First, these are true long tubes. And with that said, these are not a typical 1 hour bolt on. If your Mopars took you 2-3 hours, these won't. If you want a simple install, these aren't for you. If you want serious headers for a serious HP gain and effort spent isn't a big deal, these ARE for you.

So, now your saying, who the hell are you Tanky? I'm one of (I believe ) 2 that tested these headers. Thats right kiddies, I did the 2nd ever prototype test fit and it was done on a 2000 RC RT. Glen Renzoni did the first ever test fit, and he deserves much of the praise as ever since he's input helped the design. Using his instructions he sent me, we made up a basic instruction set for John to give to folks. Trust me, you need these instructions--it helps!! We only found 1 minor thing that the builder fixed ASAP.

What yall don't understand is this set of headers are built by a huge NHRA exhaust builder. Not just anyone built these and a TON of time went into them. From a bone stock RT to a 408 blown, its been tested. Dyno numbers weren't done, but seriously, if you need a dynojet to know the difference in gains over shorty's to long tubes, then I can't help you any further.

So, what did the prototype install net us? For the 2nd ever install, it was flawlessly perfect. However, you must understand this is no TB install or some crap. This takes time. The passenger side will BE close, very close to the transmission pan. You all need to understand what you have in your hands...a designed work of art to go in a MIDSIZE vehicle, space is NOT your friend. You will still have clearance.
The passenger header itself is an absolute work of art, anyone that thinks otherwise has no idea of engine performance. If you looked at the pictures on his headers, you would have noticed bags covering the collector. That my friends, is the trick and design genius to this header. The passenger side will be a tough install and the slip fit #8 (or #6--been awhile) pipe allows for easier install.

Whats involved in the install? Well, i can tell you what worked for us and how we made things go very smooth for us. This is of course, using Glen's instructions to help us along. For the passenger side, your coil needs to be removed and it makes life a ton easier to REMOVE the motor mount. Don't be alarmed by this, its much easier than you think. With the mount out of the way, these headers go in fairly easy. You will need to have a jack on the motor though--duh!
Driver side, was a bitch. Glen had more problems on the passenger side than we did so, not sure here. You need to remove the starter. I will tell you right now, thats a MO-FO especially if you have mopar headers and a floor shifter. space is soooooo friggin tight. It also helps to have a lift handy. These headers are so long, doign this in your garage will be challenging. We did it however, in the garage, to see how difficult the install would go. Jack Stands will NOT extend far enough for clearance. To be honest, we took a 3 ton jack, placed it on the side (under driver's door) and MAXED it out. The truck was damn near a 45 degree angle, but this allowed enough floor clearance to get these suckers in. Trust me, its no easy job. A lift will make life better, but it can be done in a garage if need. Use concrete blocks or something for your jack stands :nana:

I know that was very brief and I can email the exact directions we sent John. I just wanted to touch base with you guys on these headers. They are, in no way shape, or form anything close to GSM garbage. These are true long tubes built by a true NHRA company with over 15 years of experience (IIRC). Its a matter of what you are looking for in your truck. Serious power and gains or not. John has spent a ton of time, money, and effort, along with his friends, to get these headers out to you. To be honest they were almost ready at time GSM came out, but true to John is, he wouldn't release them without testing them on several year models FIRST, something Scott didn't do and the headers hit on 2000 models. Quality is of the finest out there. John doesn't put his name on garbage.

But I can't stress enough the install of them. Don't go into these thinking its a wham bamm ordeal cause its far from it. However, you will have one of the best items out there you can get for a Dakota V8 truck.

If I can be of further help, feel free to ask. I hope all this helps clear some air.
 
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#2 ·
Yeah unfortunately those directions were not shipped with the headers. I already did a write up on the install to help out the guys here in anyway. John was very thankfull. The headers really are fantastic parts. They are well worth the install time and or money to get them in. I'm slacka$$ing around and keep forgetting to get the sound clips with the exhaust all done up. Sorry guys.

Ps- Tanky is correct. Since I had no directions. It took me 8 hours to install them in my garage by myself. It is not quick. Really not that hard. But, not quick.
 
#4 ·
Remind me to call John later and give him shit then!! :) I wrote up a nice 1.5page install sheet on these.

8 hours solo? Seriously, out of most things, this is one I rank extremely high to do solo. Our test fit was with 2 guys (yes i'm one of them hehe).

I want to say it took us around 6 or so hours, but to be honest, this was back in August IIRC on the test fit. Thats including removing the old exhaust completely (all of it), lunch, bitching about this and that, staring, wondering, guessing, etc LOL. 2000's and up have it slightly worse since the frame comes in on those year models, why we did the test fit to ensure clearance.
If you enter the install with a state of mind it won't be easy, expect some work, and expect to remove things to do it right, then yea, it won't be AS bad.

All in all, you can't get ANY better header than these, PERIOD. Smoke all the crack you want and think otherwise :slap: these are by far the best out for us. No other header has had this much research, development, test fit over and over again on varying models, and be absolutely specific to Dakota V8s. Just can't argue that one.

Is it alot of money? Sure it is. But what did your momma always tell you growing up? You pay for what you get. Pass little get little, pay alot, get alot. And trust me on this, these are a steal. Slip fit long tubes retail for almost $1000 on other vehicles.

:drive:
 
#6 ·
Send me a set and I'll see if i agree :biggthump
 
#7 ·
TBH, I have no clue. I would advise you to get with John on that. All I know is Glen Rezoni did the installs for the 98-99 5.2 - 5.9, and my install was for 2000s and up. I would 'guess' there was no immediate plans for them, but that doesn't mean they won't do it with a test donor truck and such. Just need to ask John :)
 
#8 ·
Note: My Long Tube's are not installed yet.

I have a question maybe you can answer for me. As you obviously know, the #8 primary tube comes disassembled from the setup. My question is, since it is not welded, will I have exhaust leak from the middle of the pipe where it joins and at the collector where it is also not welded? I asked my exhaust guy to see if he could weld those 2 areas when I brought it in to have the remaining portion of my exhaust done but he said it is a pain to weld ceramic coated parts. So now Im scared that because it is not welded in those 2 areas that I will suffer from exhaust leak. What is your opinion and recommendation pertaining to this question? I'll attach a pic so you can get a better idea of what areas Im talking about.
 

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#9 ·
dakotaR/T2003 said:
Note: My Long Tube's are not installed yet.

I have a question maybe you can answer for me. As you obviously know, the #8 primary tube comes disassembled from the setup. My question is, since it is not welded, will I have exhaust leak from the middle of the pipe where it joins and at the collector where it is also not welded? I asked my exhaust guy to see if he could weld those 2 areas when I brought it in to have the remaining portion of my exhaust done but he said it is a pain to weld ceramic coated parts. So now Im scared that because it is not welded in those 2 areas that I will suffer from exhaust leak. What is your opinion and recommendation pertaining to this question? I'll attach a pic so you can get a better idea of what areas Im talking about.
If you have the pipe in there all the way it will not leak. Remember to sand some of the ceramic coating off the pipe so it goes all the way into the other pipe easier. Ive seen many a car with step headers and no joint leaked.
 
#15 ·
OK i'll send what I got out to everyone. I lost the email I sent John over these headers but I do have Glens email I used. It should at least help. I need to sit down and re-write it with what we did but this is really close.
Enjoy
 
#18 ·
3 trucks to be exact. One was a factory never touched RT. It was a 98 or 99. This was the overall concept truck. Everything factory so they could see how to go from factory to full length headers.

2nd truck was a 1999 RC RT (Glen Rezoni). He did the first ever prototype install. Coincidently, his truck has all the goodies as well (SC and 408). 98% of all changes and adjustments.

3rd install was a 2000 RC RT. This is the one I was on. 2000s and newer had a frame change where it came in closer (that is, narrowed in towards the center of the truck more than 98/99).

Once we did ours, they were ready for release to the public. Our install cleared the way for 2000+, but they were ready for 98/99 trucks, but John wouldn't release them til they were perfectly ready. Thats typical of him :)

I sent out the instructions to those asking. One guy had a reject error, at work so i can't recall who it was. Anyone else needing, let me know. I lost my own instructions I sent John but I still have Glen's.
 
#25 ·
Two bolts and my starter popped right off. Make sure the negative terminal on your battery is disconnected. Talk about sparks if it hits your header. Do not move it completely out of the way or you will have a hard time getting it back in. I did remove my steering shaft. But, with it being just me putting them on. I wanted to make it easy on myself. I do need to talk to John though. I think i got the headers for 98-99. My passenger headers is rubbing in three seperate spots. Guess 2000's aren't all that!
 
#26 ·
woooo slow down there hero....thats probably my fault for not sayign this int he first message about 2000 trucks and newer. In order for you to get the perfect clearance, you need to "lightly" install the header bolts, this allows play room. Since your doing this solo, having someone under the truck won't help at all here, so, i would advise getting a few items laying around (few wrenches, wood sticks) and use them as a pry off between areas of closeness. When you get the gap just right using these pieces, go back up top and tighten down all bolts. Then remove your wedges...should be perfect...was for us anyways....
 
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