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JM Long tube headers, the inside story

62702 Views 236 Replies 43 Participants Last post by  SinCity R/T
OK, we all read the 8 pages of stuff in the "swap" section. So, I wanted to answer a few questions for you guys cause I saw alot of nonsense posted.

First, these are true long tubes. And with that said, these are not a typical 1 hour bolt on. If your Mopars took you 2-3 hours, these won't. If you want a simple install, these aren't for you. If you want serious headers for a serious HP gain and effort spent isn't a big deal, these ARE for you.

So, now your saying, who the hell are you Tanky? I'm one of (I believe ) 2 that tested these headers. Thats right kiddies, I did the 2nd ever prototype test fit and it was done on a 2000 RC RT. Glen Renzoni did the first ever test fit, and he deserves much of the praise as ever since he's input helped the design. Using his instructions he sent me, we made up a basic instruction set for John to give to folks. Trust me, you need these instructions--it helps!! We only found 1 minor thing that the builder fixed ASAP.

What yall don't understand is this set of headers are built by a huge NHRA exhaust builder. Not just anyone built these and a TON of time went into them. From a bone stock RT to a 408 blown, its been tested. Dyno numbers weren't done, but seriously, if you need a dynojet to know the difference in gains over shorty's to long tubes, then I can't help you any further.

So, what did the prototype install net us? For the 2nd ever install, it was flawlessly perfect. However, you must understand this is no TB install or some crap. This takes time. The passenger side will BE close, very close to the transmission pan. You all need to understand what you have in your hands...a designed work of art to go in a MIDSIZE vehicle, space is NOT your friend. You will still have clearance.
The passenger header itself is an absolute work of art, anyone that thinks otherwise has no idea of engine performance. If you looked at the pictures on his headers, you would have noticed bags covering the collector. That my friends, is the trick and design genius to this header. The passenger side will be a tough install and the slip fit #8 (or #6--been awhile) pipe allows for easier install.

Whats involved in the install? Well, i can tell you what worked for us and how we made things go very smooth for us. This is of course, using Glen's instructions to help us along. For the passenger side, your coil needs to be removed and it makes life a ton easier to REMOVE the motor mount. Don't be alarmed by this, its much easier than you think. With the mount out of the way, these headers go in fairly easy. You will need to have a jack on the motor though--duh!
Driver side, was a bitch. Glen had more problems on the passenger side than we did so, not sure here. You need to remove the starter. I will tell you right now, thats a MO-FO especially if you have mopar headers and a floor shifter. space is soooooo friggin tight. It also helps to have a lift handy. These headers are so long, doign this in your garage will be challenging. We did it however, in the garage, to see how difficult the install would go. Jack Stands will NOT extend far enough for clearance. To be honest, we took a 3 ton jack, placed it on the side (under driver's door) and MAXED it out. The truck was damn near a 45 degree angle, but this allowed enough floor clearance to get these suckers in. Trust me, its no easy job. A lift will make life better, but it can be done in a garage if need. Use concrete blocks or something for your jack stands :nana:

I know that was very brief and I can email the exact directions we sent John. I just wanted to touch base with you guys on these headers. They are, in no way shape, or form anything close to GSM garbage. These are true long tubes built by a true NHRA company with over 15 years of experience (IIRC). Its a matter of what you are looking for in your truck. Serious power and gains or not. John has spent a ton of time, money, and effort, along with his friends, to get these headers out to you. To be honest they were almost ready at time GSM came out, but true to John is, he wouldn't release them without testing them on several year models FIRST, something Scott didn't do and the headers hit on 2000 models. Quality is of the finest out there. John doesn't put his name on garbage.

But I can't stress enough the install of them. Don't go into these thinking its a wham bamm ordeal cause its far from it. However, you will have one of the best items out there you can get for a Dakota V8 truck.

If I can be of further help, feel free to ask. I hope all this helps clear some air.
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Yes...even with PPHs or Borlas... it hits

dakotaR/T2003 said:
I have hotchkis drop, will I need to trim my upper control arm?
5 pages and no real data or results yet???????????????????

No dyno numbers or mph changes in the 1/4??
Devilbrad... you're a sexy biatch! :twothumb:
Im using a Borla setup. Full stainless with thick ass flanges at the ports.
Im not exactly going fast yet though.

Looking at other platforms like LSx camaros, Moostangs, etc... nobody would buy a header with ports that look like that.
All the headers Ive used have been specifically designed for the magnum engines..... not the LA motor.

I had the Borlas and PPHs side by side. I sold the PPHs.

Dont know what your budget is... but you might want to consider a set of Kooks headers if you're serious. They are about double the price of those S&S long tubes... but first rate custom quality.
Wraith... you've had yours awhile now. Any feedback on them?
Gain or lose hp? Torque?
wow... dont have time to read all the posts yet... but

I heart Devilbrad!!!!! :eek:nethumb:
Dont know who you are or what you did or didnt do.... but please please please dont post those f**** pics of headers unless you have the words "GROUP BUY" in front of them......lol :jester:
Id remove my borlas for those!

white59rt said:
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