[01silvr-cc-rt]

Using SCT to tune, 39# 03-04 Cobra SVT injectors, boost gauge, a/f gauge, fuel pressure gauge, 2 bar map sensor, felpro 1008 head gaskets, and later on an intercooler. My question is with the head gaskets and the 2 bar map sensor. With the head gaskets (Felpro 1008's), when I searched for them on Jegs it shown that they were for 1964-89 360... is this the head gasket that everyone recommends for boost on an 01 360 Magnum or am I looking at the wrong thing? Also with the 2 bar map sensor I can use just any 2 bar map sensor I just have to mount it to another location and be sure to get the plug in to wire into my harness? What about the vacuum line, do I just route it to the same location as before? Also will my stock fuel pump supply enough fuel for my application? And one last thing, the truck has 100,000 miles on it so will 9#'s be safe assuming that my tune is perfect? Sorry for all of the question, just new to boost and want to do it right the first time! Thanks again.

 

[2dakotas]

Using SCT to tune, 39# 03-04 Cobra SVT injectors, boost gauge, a/f gauge, fuel pressure gauge, 2 bar map sensor, felpro 1008 head gaskets, and later on an intercooler. My question is with the head gaskets and the 2 bar map sensor. With the head gaskets (Felpro 1008's), when I searched for them on Jegs it shown that they were for 1964-89 360... is this the head gasket that everyone recommends for boost on an 01 360 Magnum or am I looking at the wrong thing? Also with the 2 bar map sensor I can use just any 2 bar map sensor I just have to mount it to another location and be sure to get the plug in to wire into my harness? What about the vacuum line, do I just route it to the same location as before? Also will my stock fuel pump supply enough fuel for my application? And one last thing, the truck has 100,000 miles on it so will 9#'s be safe assuming that my tune is perfect? Sorry for all of the question, just new to boost and want to do it right the first time! Thanks again.

I will answer to the best of my ability as I have a similar combo (39# injectors, 2-bar, and SCT). Yes, the felpro 1008's are the correct gaskets. I am not sure on the MAP questions because I am new to MAP sensors and boost (coming from a boosted Ford, which uses a MAF sensor), but it is my understanding that any 2-bar MAP should work as long as it is wired correctly. I got my vacuum source from one of the intake vacuum ports. The stock fuel pump is not enough on my truck. I have a Walbro, but I haven't put it in yet because I wanted to see if I even needed it. My truck starts going lean around 4,000 rpms (up in the 13-13.5 range), so I have had to let off early, and I haven't been able to get a good full run in yet. I just haven't had the time to change out the pump lately. You said that you have a A/F gauge, but make sure it is a wideband gauge with the ability to datalog for tuning. Many people will tell you not to run any boost at all with a stock motor, and a high mileage one at that, but I feel that if the motor is in good shape, and still has good even compression across the board, then it should be fine with a GOOD tune. When I had my Mustang, all the guys on those forums said not to boost a stock motor with over 50k miles. Well, my car had 155k miles on a stock bottom end, and it survived over 2 years of hard driving, about 8k miles, 12 psi, 506 RWHP & 510 RWTQ, and was still running strong when I traded it to my RT. Of coarse, I checked everything out good, and had a safe tune (11:1 A/F and 20* total timing).

 

[blwn318]

ok first things first................ its called a search function. its on the top right of the command bar

fel-pro 1008 are what i, and others run.

any 2 bar MAP will work. just wire it up and mount it somewhere. just run the vac line like normal

a good tune is key but with 100k on the motor there leaves a lot to question. 9psi might be safe. but with bad rings or bearings who knows whats gonna give. other then SCT and a blower what else do you have done?

my 318 is a junkyard motor our of a ram with a cam and intake. otherwise stock bottom end. it has held 12psi long enough to eat up a axle.......... its all on the over all build and tune.

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[meangreen]

Using SCT to tune, 39# 03-04 Cobra SVT injectors, boost gauge, a/f gauge, fuel pressure gauge, 2 bar map sensor, felpro 1008 head gaskets, and later on an intercooler. My question is with the head gaskets and the 2 bar map sensor. With the head gaskets (Felpro 1008's), when I searched for them on Jegs it shown that they were for 1964-89 360... is this the head gasket that everyone recommends for boost on an 01 360 Magnum or am I looking at the wrong thing? Also with the 2 bar map sensor I can use just any 2 bar map sensor I just have to mount it to another location and be sure to get the plug in to wire into my harness? What about the vacuum line, do I just route it to the same location as before? Also will my stock fuel pump supply enough fuel for my application? And one last thing, the truck has 100,000 miles on it so will 9#'s be safe assuming that my tune is perfect? Sorry for all of the question, just new to boost and want to do it right the first time! Thanks again.

I agree with the other posters. Except to say that IME your stock fuel pump should be just fine at 9# on an otherwise relatively stock motor. With your fueling you should be good to ~450HP

 

[01silvr-cc-rt]

Supercharger

Just wanted to check to make sure that the year difference in the head gasket and my truck wouldn't cause any problems. Currently I have M&H 275 drag radials, 4.56 gear with rebuilt limited slip, m-Saine valve body and 2800 rpm nitrous stall, full Spintech exhaust with mid lengths 2 1/2 inch pipe minus cats with x-pipe and side exit, Harland Sharp 1.7 RR, M1 2 barrel, 52MM F&B throttle body, 180 T-stat, A/F gauge that can data log, SCT tune by hemifever. Then obviosly I have a S trim vortech that has been rebuilt and upgraded with all of the do-dads to go with it and still need to get a intercooler. This is my daily driver and I have plans on starting a forged motor with big heads and cam in the near future. Just trying to hit mid twelves then build the motor to hold it.

 

[01silvr-cc-rt]

Supercharger

Hey meangreen, it's your old supercharger just rebuilt and upgraded! You ever run it? If so what did you gain power wise from it.

 

[blwn318]

Just wanted to check to make sure that the year difference in the head gasket and my truck wouldn't cause any problems. Currently I have M&H 275 drag radials, 4.56 gear with rebuilt limited slip, m-Saine valve body and 2800 rpm nitrous stall, full Spintech exhaust with mid lengths 2 1/2 inch pipe minus cats with x-pipe and side exit, Harland Sharp 1.7 RR, M1 2 barrel, 52MM F&B throttle body, 180 T-stat, A/F gauge that can data log, SCT tune by hemifever. Then obviosly I have a S trim vortech that has been rebuilt and upgraded with all of the do-dads to go with it and still need to get a intercooler. This is my daily driver and I have plans on starting a forged motor with big heads and cam in the near future. Just trying to hit mid twelves then build the motor to hold it.

my stock bottom end 318 5spd rc on 8psi without the sct (just a B&G flash) went 12.5x.................. just for reference sake



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[01silvr-cc-rt]

Supercharger

I should be good for mid twelves maybe even faster once I get it installed and tuned. Then the rebuild and more boost might get me low twelves or even in the elevens.

 

[meangreen]

Hey meangreen, it's your old supercharger just rebuilt and upgraded! You ever run it? If so what did you gain power wise from it.

Yeah, I ran it for around a year or two. I spent most of that time learning how to tune. I put down 240rwhp before the blower, but I have no track time or dyno time after. Just some street reacing ... truck was super quick at ~10psi ...

 

[dirtydak]

Currently I have M&H 275 drag radials, 4.56 gear with rebuilt limited slip, m-Saine valve body and 2800 rpm nitrous stall, full Spintech exhaust with mid lengths 2 1/2 inch pipe minus cats with x-pipe and side exit, Harland Sharp 1.7 RR, M1 2 barrel, 52MM F&B throttle body, 180 T-stat, A/F gauge that can data log, SCT tune by hemifever. Then obviosly I have a S trim vortech that has been rebuilt and upgraded with all of the do-dads to go with it and still need to get a intercooler. This is my daily driver and I have plans on starting a forged motor with big heads and cam in the near future. Just trying to hit mid twelves then build the motor to hold it.

Damn we have about the same set-up except i have a powerdyne with 6lbs.
I guess the rest of the questions have been answered. I installed my blower on the stock motor, stock head gaskets at 120k and ive been romping on it, full boost every time i get in it, and ive got 132k now:woot: blew the trans after 60 miles lol




soon to be :bye::bye: but it's holding up

 

[2dakotas]

Except to say that IME your stock fuel pump should be just fine at 9# on an otherwise relatively stock motor. With your fueling you should be good to ~450HP

I didn't realize that the stock pump could support that much. I am sure you mean, 450 crank hp, though. If you figure in a 20% drivetrain loss, that is about 360 RWHP. I know with a boost-a-pump, it will run harder and provide more pressure, but if you figure that a good bolt-on truck puts 220-230 RWHP down, then add another 135 RWHP (15hp per psi), that would put a bolt-on supercharged 9psi truck around 355-365 RWHP. it would be pushing a stock pump hard to get where you need to be, and running the risk of it failing prematurely.

I recommended the fuel pump because of two reasons: 1) It is relatively cheap to upgrade to a Walbro (I got mine for $80, new) for an added piece of mind. 2) It will not have to work as hard as a stock pump to get to the same pressure, thus longer life. If is always easier to take fuel out, than to try to add fuel with a system that is struggling to keep up. This, of coarse, is my opinion and suggestion. It is good to know that the stock pump can handle it, but I am real cautious about the fuel system on a boosted application.

 

[meangreen]

I didn't realize that the stock pump could support that much. I am sure you mean, 450 crank hp, though. If you figure in a 20% drivetrain loss, that is about 360 RWHP. I know with a boost-a-pump, it will run harder and provide more pressure, but if you figure that a good bolt-on truck puts 220-230 RWHP down, then add another 135 RWHP (15hp per psi), that would put a bolt-on supercharged 9psi truck around 355-365 RWHP. it would be pushing a stock pump hard to get where you need to be, and running the risk of it failing prematurely.

I recommended the fuel pump because of two reasons: 1) It is relatively cheap to upgrade to a Walbro (I got mine for $80, new) for an added piece of mind. 2) It will not have to work as hard as a stock pump to get to the same pressure, thus longer life. If is always easier to take fuel out, than to try to add fuel with a system that is struggling to keep up. This, of coarse, is my opinion and suggestion. It is good to know that the stock pump can handle it, but I am real cautious about the fuel system on a boosted application.

I never had an issue with the stock pump @ ~400rwhp .... just my personal experience.

What is the flow rating on the stock pump?

You said that your truck goes lean above 4000rpm and you think that it is the fuel pump? What is the fuel pressure like when it goes lean? Have you tried adding fuel in?

 

[dkjones96]

Just thought I'd chime in here real quick.

More fuel usage will not cause more fuel pump wear. It flows the same volume at the same pressure all the time and if you aren't using it under the hood it just goes back into the tank via the FPR(fuel pressure regulator) return. The only time it sees a difference is when you start needing more fuel than the pump can move and since that would cause a drop in pressure it is easier on the pump.

 

[2dakotas]

Just thought I'd chime in here real quick.

More fuel usage will not cause more fuel pump wear. It flows the same volume at the same pressure all the time and if you aren't using it under the hood it just goes back into the tank via the FPR(fuel pressure regulator) return. The only time it sees a difference is when you start needing more fuel than the pump can move and since that would cause a drop in pressure it is easier on the pump.

I thought we had a returnless fuel system. Also, if your theory is true, then the pump would still wear premature because it would be running at the same speed as before but not moving as much fuel and thus getting warmer because of lack of fuel to cool the pump.

 

[WeezyRT]

I thought we had a returnless fuel system. Also, if your theory is true, then the pump would still wear premature because it would be running at the same speed as before but not moving as much fuel and thus getting warmer because of lack of fuel to cool the pump.

Yes, the stock fuel system is a non-return setup.

 

[dkjones96]

I thought we had a returnless fuel system.

It is non-return from the fuel rail, there is a fuel pressure regulator that returns fuel to the tank but it is at the tank. FSM under fuel system explains the whole thing.

Also, if your theory is true, then the pump would still wear premature because it would be running at the same speed as before but not moving as much fuel and thus getting warmer because of lack of fuel to cool the pump.

I don't get what you are saying about less fuel? More power means more fuel gets used and idle consumption should stay about the same...

 

[rock1717]

Im running a Vortech kit at 8 psi with the following M1, 55mm TB, Full spin tech exhaust and at 5500rpm's I start going lean. Yes I'm running a stock fuel system. Truck put down 400whp and 435tq.

 

[spoolboy]

How are you guys adding fuel with the returnless system?

 

[blwn318]

How are you guys adding fuel with the returnless system?

I was running a FMU set up with an aux pump. and it ran pig rich. just took that off in favor of a SCT tuner and bigger injectors

 

[spoolboy]

Are you adding a return line to the tank for the fmu, or are you just dumping back into the supply line behind the pump in a circular layout?