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Discussion Starter #1
i just had the shop finish all the wiring to it and the reading bouces all over the place from 8-22 and reads as a default at 7.4 is this just a matter of tuning or is something not hooked up right
 

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Jorden White
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Is it the LC-1? If so you may need to calibrate it. also set up the full rich to 10.0:1 and lean to 20:1 with the log works software, Also make sure its set to gas scale and not lamda. What does the gauge read at idle with the truck at operating temperature? Should stay in the 14.7 to 15.3 range.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
yes it is the lc-1 i did the calibration and that calmed it down and idles between high 13-low 16 but then its all over the place but ill mess with the laptop and the gauge tomorrow and see what i can do thanks for the reply
 

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read your intructions and check the red l.e.d. bulb for proper operation, I had a hard time getting mine working correctly and it wound up being a wiring issue mine stays at 14.3 idling and will dwell at 21.8 when no throttle is applied, but it explains in the instructions how the l.e.d. light is supposed to light up when you first calibrate it and such
 

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ok mine flashes for awhile then goes solid while its flashing its reading as a default once solid it reads but never in one place long enough to read it so im gunna pull the o2 tomorrow air it out really well and see what happens but talking to hemifever he thinks that it maybe part to having the new top end and front half of the motor done just picked it up today
 

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sounds like the l.e.d is functioning normal, one other thing is that before you install it in your exhaust the first calibration was supposed to be done in just open fresh air, but yea just sitting idling mine usually stays around 14.5 or so and when I let off gas it will sometimes dwell at 21.9 till i get on the throttle again
 

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Discussion Starter #7
ok i re re calibrated the sensor and now it idles between 14.3-14.9 which hemifever said its were it should be. But $40 later i had to get a serial to usb adapter so the gauge could talk with the computer. And mr.white were would you enter those settings at is it this screen
cause this is the only spot to enter anything
 

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Jorden White
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That is the 0-1v analog output screen, that is used for 02 simulation you are not using. The analog 2 is the 0-5v output. So on the analog 2 tab set 0v to 10.0 and 5v to 20.0, and check A/F ratio (which it already is because your gauge is reading 14.xx at idle)

In the advanced tab you can set your switching to 2.5 volts, which is stoichiometric efficiency (14.7:1), that is pretty much used for closed loop operation on an ecu that has the 0-5v output configured for the wideband instead of a traditional 0-1v o2 sensor.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
ok i can change the volts and what not tomorrow and do i need to do the one in the advanced tab or not and i changed the readings to 1/6 of a sec and mellowed the readings just a little bit
 

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Jorden White
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You don't really need to change the switching voltage in the advanced tab.

Sorry forgot what forum I was on. Lol I tune Turbo DSM's at home on the side, they all have the LC-1's, its just protocol while I'm in there.

Slowing the reaction time down will stabilize the gauge but won't be as accurate, sounds like you pretty much got it. Since you did have engine work done I would let you tuner take a look at your AFR's. speed density is pretty sensitive to VE changes. ie better flowing heads, headers, intake, valve timing ect.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
ya he said the idle a/f is in range so he just needs the wot a/f reading and he will adjust from there
 
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