how to remove oil pan on 5.2 durango

22121 Views 19 Replies 7 Participants Last post by mtx11, Oct 2, 2011

rodrigues27

Discussion Starter · Jan 2, 2009

I am trying to remove my oil pan on a 5.2 V8 durango. Do i have to lift the engine, remove the axel, or any thing of that nature. Or is there enough room that i can just remove it. Im looking too see if the filter is sludged because i hear lower engine knocking and i feel that the pressure might be low

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addicted2blue00

· #2 · Jan 2, 2009

3

this is sludge

pull your valve covers off and see if something like this is layin on the heads, if so youll be better off pullin the motor out, this is sort of a common issue.

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TurboBlew

· #3 · Jan 3, 2009

rodrigues27 said:
I am trying to remove my oil pan on a 5.2 V8 durango. Do i have to lift the engine, remove the axel, or any thing of that nature. Or is there enough room that i can just remove it. Im looking too see if the filter is sludged because i hear lower engine knocking and i feel that the pressure might be low

aint enough room to remove the pan. Got to raise the motor.

Might want to try flushing the motor with kerosene first since the oil pickup is small and can easily suck up trash that blocks the screen intake

Remove the oil pressure sensor at teh back of the block... and put some compressed air down the port after the flush as well

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addicted2blue00

· #4 · Jan 3, 2009

arent all pickup screen the same? mine in my 360 had the screen the size of the entire bottom instead of bein capped off in the last pic

pleasehelp44098

· #5 · Jan 3, 2009

could sludge cause the lower knocking i am hearing. the car sat for over 6 months

TurboBlew

· #6 · Jan 3, 2009

pleasehelp44098 said:
could sludge cause the lower knocking i am hearing. the car sat for over 6 months

6 months aint shit to be honest. The sludge pics above is an exceptionally extreme case. You'd be seeing pressure problems before it got that bad.

rodrigues27

Discussion Starter · #7 · Jan 3, 2009

then what could have caused this knocking. does not do it when i first start the engine. takes like 5 minutes then its there when it idles and accelerates. didnt do this before.

TurboBlew

· #8 · Jan 3, 2009

a rod knock would be audible from start up or any time the crank is rotating.

Flush the motor with some kerosene, change the oil/filter... and take some oil pressure readings at the sensor.

nothing magical to it.

NXNLINE

· #9 · Jan 3, 2009

Flush the oil like Turbo said

rodrigues27 said:
then what could have caused this knocking. does not do it when i first start the engine. takes like 5 minutes then its there when it idles and accelerates. didnt do this before.

Its prob the oil pump knocking, what weight oil are you using and how cold is it there?

rodrigues27

Discussion Starter · #10 · Jan 3, 2009 (Edited)

it is about 40 to 20 degrees day and night. when i first started the engine after 6 months the noise started and a a few seconds later the oil pressure dropped. I changed the oil and fitler. when i did that the oil pressure seems fine but still the knock when the engine is warm. I was running 5-30 and tried mystery oil, and nothing worked. Just tonight i drained the oil and tried using 10-40 to see if it would stop the knocking. didnt work. u think its the oil pump knocking? what causes that and how would i fix it. i could probably take a video clip of this if that would help. I tried putting a screw driver to the engine to listen if it was top or bottom and i def think its the bottom. dont see how a bearing would have went after it sitting and the oil pressure dropping one time.

TurboBlew

· #11 · Jan 3, 2009

try using a synthetic oil. Flows better cold and at startup.
I like rotella.

rodrigues27

Discussion Starter · #12 · Jan 3, 2009

tried it already. even ran some atf in it to flush the system. pressure actually dropped once when i did that to around 0 but jumped right back up. drained all that out

TurboBlew

· #13 · Jan 3, 2009

atf doesnt work as well as kerosene. The pressure should drop kerosene is a solvent. Dont rev the motor when doing a flush.

rodrigues27

Discussion Starter · #14 · Jan 3, 2009

im not understanding what kerosene will do. first off would that ignite in the motor? and in what way will that stop this knocking. not saying it wont work but what might this do. and why does this knocking only start when the engine is warm. i will take a video tomorrow so you can hear it and maybe someone will recognize it.

addicted2blue00

· #15 · Jan 3, 2009

kerosene needs a direct flame unlike gas that just needs a spark. kero trick is an old trick like the atf trick but works better, like said if you try it dont rev the motor jsut let it idle for a few mins unless you hear the motor start ticking badly.

rodrigues27

Discussion Starter · #16 · Jan 3, 2009

ok so i will try the kerosene. Have we ruled out that it is a bearing problem? how do i go about doing this kerosene trick. how much how long and will i notice the knocking go away.

johncs78

· #17 · Jan 3, 2009

TurboBlew said:
try using a synthetic oil. Flows better cold and at startup.
I like rotella.

...the original owner used synthetic oil in mine...bc they lived in Montana and idaho....I'm about to hit 200k and I drive the crap out of mine and it runs great...im a beleiver in sythetic now....oil changes cost twice as much...but if i hit 300k before needing a rebuild....it will be worth it to me!

TurboBlew

· #18 · Jan 3, 2009

rodrigues27 said:
ok so i will try the kerosene. Have we ruled out that it is a bearing problem? how do i go about doing this kerosene trick. how much how long and will i notice the knocking go away.

Just get a gallon of kersone at a station. You can buy it in the store too but its double the pump price.

Put a quart in before you change the oil and let the engine idle for 10mins.
Drain & dump the filter. Put a new cheapy filter on (not fram though) fill with fresh oil (cheap) and 2 quarts kerosene. Whatever it takes to make the dipstick show its full. Run the motor another 10mins. Drain & dump the filter. Remove the pressure sensor unit at the back and blow some compressed air down the port. Reinstall the sensor, new filter, and fresh oil.

TurboBlew

· #19 · Jan 3, 2009

johncs78 said:
...the original owner used synthetic oil in mine...bc they lived in Montana and idaho....I'm about to hit 200k and I drive the crap out of mine and it runs great...im a beleiver in sythetic now....oil changes cost twice as much...but if i hit 300k before needing a rebuild....it will be worth it to me!

you should be able to go extended intervals with synthetic. If you normally change at 3k... go to 5 or 6k. If you do short trips... more frequent the better.
Rotella runs ~$3.50/quart when bought in the bigger containers.

mtx11

· #20 · Oct 2, 2011

So would the Kero work better than dropping the oil pan and cleaning the screen.

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