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[HOW TO][Interior] Installing Seat Heaters

18059 Views 13 Replies 9 Participants Last post by  TazRango
Installation of 2 Doorman Universal Seat Heater Kits #628-040 in a 1999 Dodge Dakota with Cloth Seats. 2 kits completed both driver and passenger seat and lumbar pads

Tools Needed
- Socket Set
- Phillips & Standard Screw divers (Power drill with bits optional)
- 1 long & skinny Standard screwdriver
- Voltage tester
- Wire Crimper
- Wire Snips
- Utility knife / Razor blade
- 4 Claw Pick-up Tool
- Soldering Gun
- Power drill w/ ¾’ bit

Equipment Needed
- 1 standard automotive 4 pin electrical relay
- 1 in-line fuse
- Assorted wire
- Assorted wire connectors
- Wire splicers
- 2 Doorman Universal Seat Heater Kits #628-040
- 1 can of 3M Hi-Strength Spray Adhesive
- Solder
- Zip ties (short and long)

- Familiarity with basic 12v

1) Remove the Seats
- Remove the 2 front bolts (13mm) and 2 rear bolts (18mm) each side
- Tilt the seats back and remove the 4 center console bolts (13mm?)
- Remove seats and console from cab

2) Remove Seat Covering (Both Sides)
- On the lumbar portion, reach in from the back, find the lip of the tension hook and tug. Once free, un-zip the zipper all the way. Remove foam from seat chassis.
- On the seat portion, Using the long skinny standard screwdriver CAREFULLY pry the cushion tension hooks from the chassis. Best if you do NOT remove foam from chassis

3) Separate Seat cover from foam
Evaluate how you will be wiring your heated pads. Take into account you only need to remove enough seat cover to install the heating pad.
- Method 1) Using the razor blade carefully separate the seat cover from the foam
- Method 2) Carefully tug the seat cover off the foam. Some foam will come up with cover, its no big deal
- Be aware of the riveted portion of the cover that fits into the foam crevice, do not damage

4) Heating Pad Installation / Re-attaching seat cover
- Sticky side of pad attaches to foam.
- Press pad into the foam crevice where the riveted seat cover portion fits into foam.

- One section at a time using 3M Spray adhesive, evenly coat the surfaces you separated. Give the crevice area an extra squirt.
- QUICKLY replace seat cover. Give extra attention in getting the riveted portion of cover back into the foam crevice. Rub cover into foam. Eliminate any wrinkles. If you don't get it right, do it again.

5) Reassemble seats completely.

6) Installing Hi/Low Switches
Install switches to your discretion.
- Remove Diver side kicker panel, upper dash panel, center steering wheel panel, unscrew lower center dash panel (let it hang)
- Disconnect seat wiring harness hi/low switches at quick disconnect, set aside
Option 1) Location you Prefer
Option 2) Center lower dash section

- Using ¾” drill bit, drill 2 holes in dash as seen in picture. Driver side switch requires secondary hole in the dash mount as seen in picture.

- Route wires through dash towards gas pedal.

7) Wiring
- Using Claw tool, shove Positive (+) lead from engine bay through the driver side firewall access hole. Solder in-line fuse. Trim lead to acceptable length. Attach lead to battery. Test with volt meter.
- Pull up driver side floor board carpet. Shove Heated Seat harness seat connectors through to allow seat connects to pass though hole in carpet just under the center console.

- Ground harness to existing ground point near gas pedal.

- Solder both seat harness Positive (+) leads together using female connector.
- Ground Relay to existing ground point near parking brake.

- Switched Power source
Option 1) Using existing fuse block, use kit supplied “Fuse Tap Device”
Option 2) Tap into ignition circuit under steering wheel. (My method)

- Following wiring diagram connect wires

- Connect Hi/low switches to harness
- Test system with volt meter

8) Re-Install Seats/Button-Up
- Connect appropriate harness/switch to appropriate seat
- Ensure seat function/movement does not interfere with harness. Use zip-ties or re-route as needed
- Re-install seats
- The Center Console makes things difficult. Test fit everything before you tighten everything down.
- Use zip ties to dress-up excess wiring. Button up all carpet and panels.

9) You are done.
-"Low" setting is good for daily driving in cool ambient temps.
-"Hi" setting is good for very brisk mornings.
- Warm-up takes less than 3 minutes.
- I was quoted ~$350 PER SEAT to have this done by a professional. It took me an afternoon and ~$150 to do both seats myself. I have no experience in upholstery. :woot:

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Given the appearance of the wiring that it comes with, I would say 25A or less. That looks like 14ga tops for the main feeds/grounds, even smaller for the individual wires to the pads. And Tex you missed what he said - Each kit includes two pads and is intended for one seat, back and bottom. He used two kits.

Great writeup Gilla, thanks! :mullet:
They more than likely will not work with the factory controllers. The factory pads have a specific resistance that the aftermarket pads are unlikely to match, and that will cause the controller to give an error. If you use the switches that come in the aftermarket kit there wouldnt be a problem.
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