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No, the whole setup is different in '00 to '01. The blower motor resistor in a '00 is I guess on the fire wall under the wiper cowl? Not really sure.
[HOW-TO][HVAC][Gen III Dakota][Gen I Durango] Blower Resistor Diagnosis/Replacement
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Glad I found this thread last night, The 1st post with the pictures showing exactly where the resistor is at was HUGE for me. I was able to swap out the bad resistor for a Mopar replacement and had it done in about 15 minutes. I've been parking this truck when the weather claims it will be too cold or hot, now I'll be able to drive it until the 1st snow fall!
Hope this is the end of that problem!
Hope this is the end of that problem!
Hey all,
Wanted to followed up on my original problem. Please excuse this info is post dated. As mentioned earlier, I have an '05 Durango Limited with the "ATC" -(Automatic Temperature Control) Heating and A/C system. I replaced the "Module-Power-Blower Motor-Front", being the equivalant of the resistor, like most posting here with the "MTC" - (Manual Temperature Control) system. Worked for a month then after reseating the plugs, worked for about a week more, then intermittently until it finally stopped altogether. Sound familiar. Anyways the real problem that caused the "resistor" to go out was the Blower Motor, which had 122,000 miles when first failed. Put a meter on the motor and rotated to find resistance in the megs-ohms and numerous dead spots. This is likely what caused the burning of wiring on the MTCs. Higher resistance draws more amps, which found the weak link in the wiring instead of the fuse...Poor design. For those with the MTC system, everything is pretty well documented here, I continue for those with the ATC system. Replace both when it fails. I still have not had the cooked wiring and believe this may just be symptomatic for the MTC systems. You know you have the ATC system when the "resistor" has two plugs to it side-by-side. One 2 wire/pin, and one 3 wire/pin. See my previous post for the wiring diagrams. Part numbers below are specific to my vehicle, however I found the same effectivity for several Dodge and Chrysler "Trucks" and other products.
Front Blower - 5061381AA
Module (Resistor) - 5179985AA
Pigtail/Harness - 68052436AA....(If burned and/or needed only!) Inspect and ring out the wiring to make sure first.
Please note with this Pigtail/harness, there are two setups inside the bag. The 2 pin harness is complete with plugs terminated on both ends to go from the resistor to the motor. Simple plug and play after you disconnect the old one at both ends. Then just tie wrap the new one, piggy backed as close as you can to the old. No need to remove it.
The 3wire/pin loose plug and wires is a pigtail like the 5 wire/pin used with the MTC system, and should be "spliced" and terminated using the methods previously mentioned.
Anyways...I'm a Mechanic, not a tech writer. :sorry: so late, but maybe this will still help someone. Thanks again to everyone.
Wanted to followed up on my original problem. Please excuse this info is post dated. As mentioned earlier, I have an '05 Durango Limited with the "ATC" -(Automatic Temperature Control) Heating and A/C system. I replaced the "Module-Power-Blower Motor-Front", being the equivalant of the resistor, like most posting here with the "MTC" - (Manual Temperature Control) system. Worked for a month then after reseating the plugs, worked for about a week more, then intermittently until it finally stopped altogether. Sound familiar. Anyways the real problem that caused the "resistor" to go out was the Blower Motor, which had 122,000 miles when first failed. Put a meter on the motor and rotated to find resistance in the megs-ohms and numerous dead spots. This is likely what caused the burning of wiring on the MTCs. Higher resistance draws more amps, which found the weak link in the wiring instead of the fuse...Poor design. For those with the MTC system, everything is pretty well documented here, I continue for those with the ATC system. Replace both when it fails. I still have not had the cooked wiring and believe this may just be symptomatic for the MTC systems. You know you have the ATC system when the "resistor" has two plugs to it side-by-side. One 2 wire/pin, and one 3 wire/pin. See my previous post for the wiring diagrams. Part numbers below are specific to my vehicle, however I found the same effectivity for several Dodge and Chrysler "Trucks" and other products.
Front Blower - 5061381AA
Module (Resistor) - 5179985AA
Pigtail/Harness - 68052436AA....(If burned and/or needed only!) Inspect and ring out the wiring to make sure first.
Please note with this Pigtail/harness, there are two setups inside the bag. The 2 pin harness is complete with plugs terminated on both ends to go from the resistor to the motor. Simple plug and play after you disconnect the old one at both ends. Then just tie wrap the new one, piggy backed as close as you can to the old. No need to remove it.
The 3wire/pin loose plug and wires is a pigtail like the 5 wire/pin used with the MTC system, and should be "spliced" and terminated using the methods previously mentioned.
Anyways...I'm a Mechanic, not a tech writer. :sorry: so late, but maybe this will still help someone. Thanks again to everyone.
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Yes.
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wiring harness
Ive been dealing with this for some time now. I just returned my resistor and wiring harness that were both fried. Im wondering If I need to make poert 2 a smaller wire or keep them the same size as the other ones. My harness box had green and purple wires. the greens are thicker. Thanks for any info you can give, the above info had been very helpfull.
Richie
Ive been dealing with this for some time now. I just returned my resistor and wiring harness that were both fried. Im wondering If I need to make poert 2 a smaller wire or keep them the same size as the other ones. My harness box had green and purple wires. the greens are thicker. Thanks for any info you can give, the above info had been very helpfull.
Richie
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2 Posts
Also to follow up, is that dieletc grease needed ?
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I've got a 2000 Durango, 199 k miles. Blower motor started working intermittently about a year ago, replaced the resistor (which btw, is under the windshield wiper cowl on a 2000), worked for awhile then the blower started working intermittently (only on high setting) again, then quit altogether. So this time I did a very foolish thing. Figuring the resistor had already Ben replaced once, all the fuses and relay were new, I pulled the WHOLE dash and yanked out the HVAC box and changed the blower motor! WOW! What a huge job! Well guess what? After reassembly, still no blower! DAMN! So now what? Should I change the resistor again? Any advice would be appreciated!!!
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DUUUUDDEESS, Thanks so much for this info!!!
First post!! I own a 2001 Dakota Quad cab.
My fan quit working on low about two years ago, then about 4 months ago, it quit all together.
The wife was driving it, after I told her not to turn the AC on, she did anyway, and called me saying she smelled something burning. GREAT!! Damnit, I SAID DONT USE IT...
Anyway, I found this thread and pulled the resistor out in less than five minutes. Nothing on the resistor board, which is the flat black one with two "V" looking wires in the board, and nothing seems to be burned, the tabs are all fine on both the resistor and plug.
Since the wife smelled something burning, does that make anyone think the harness may be fried?? I took the blower apart a few weeks ago and powered the fan separately and it worked just fine....Think it could still go if I replace the resistor like it has for some others? Hope not...
I have 180,000 miles on it and its lasted this long so Im hoping that if I do one, or two things all will be well, but it sounds like its one thing after another.
Thanks so much to all who have posted in this thread, great info
Nick
First post!! I own a 2001 Dakota Quad cab.
My fan quit working on low about two years ago, then about 4 months ago, it quit all together.
The wife was driving it, after I told her not to turn the AC on, she did anyway, and called me saying she smelled something burning. GREAT!! Damnit, I SAID DONT USE IT...
Anyway, I found this thread and pulled the resistor out in less than five minutes. Nothing on the resistor board, which is the flat black one with two "V" looking wires in the board, and nothing seems to be burned, the tabs are all fine on both the resistor and plug.
Since the wife smelled something burning, does that make anyone think the harness may be fried?? I took the blower apart a few weeks ago and powered the fan separately and it worked just fine....Think it could still go if I replace the resistor like it has for some others? Hope not...
I have 180,000 miles on it and its lasted this long so Im hoping that if I do one, or two things all will be well, but it sounds like its one thing after another.
Thanks so much to all who have posted in this thread, great info
Nick
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134 Posts
Installed the new resistor two days ago, so far so good!!
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Not a problem. I've since sold the truck but it's good to know I could give back a little to a forum I learned so much from.
I have been having this issue for a few years. 4 resistor, 3 motors. 3 harnesses, 1 control unit. Adds up in a hurry. This last time I had to cut the harness from the truck to the motor as it was fried at one wire. The problem I have now is I lost high power. I have 1 speed. Is it possible that I have the wires reversed at the blower motor? It sounds like it is running on high but the air flow seems to be very light compared to what it was.
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Hello everyone. Well, about 1 1/2 years after doing the wires and resistor pack (both from the dealer) I have once again melted the thing... Terminal #2 to be exact. Is there please someone that has a well working blower system that would test the amp draw of their blower so we could have some more data on this? Hopefully someone that has done a wire/resistor pack/blower replacement would be ideal... I have instructions on how to do this simple test earlier in the thread: http://www.dakota-durango.com/forum/showpost.php?p=2974056&postcount=93 I'm just really trying to figure out if I need a new blower motor or what.
Thanks!
Andrew
Thanks!
Andrew
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