Dakota Durango Forum banner

1 - 20 of 25 Posts

·
Condoms prevent minivans
Joined
·
538 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
This article shows you how to swap your stock 4.7 manifold for a High Output manifold.

Parts Required
  • HO Manifold of your choice: 2002 -> good, 2003-2007 -> better, 2008-2011 -> best
  • Vacuum caps (for unused vacuum ports on the manifold)
  • Vaseline
  • 5/8 heater hose
  • 8mm vacuum hose
  • Replacement electrical harness clips (fuel injectors, coils etc.) *DEALER ITEMS*
  • Black electrical tape for any connections that look like they are loose.
Tools Required
NOTE - Tools listed are what I used when doing this swap. May require other tools if you have the stock air-cleaner setup.
  • 8mm socket
  • 10mm socket
  • 10mm deep socket
  • Small adjustable wrench
  • Large pliers
  • Needle nose pliers
  • Torx set
  • Small pry bar
----

NOTE: you may want to relocate your IAT (Intake Air Temp) sensor from the manifold to the air intake tube (if you have one). Since the manifold gets hot, moving it to the intake tube gives the PCM a more accurate reading. To block off the hole, there is a plug available, either on your new manifold, or find one at the wreckers. It's located over the #5 cylinder port on the manifold.

Gaskets were the easy part - They are O-rings, located at each port and at the TB mount. Pop 'em out, look 'em over, grease 'em with a little Vaseline, pop 'em back in! Mix n' match from the old and new manifolds, they are identical.

MAP sensor, located on the front of the manifold, comes out with a Torx bit.

Start by relieving the fuel pressure by pulling the fuel pump relay or fuse and cranking her over a few times. Then disconnect the battery and remove it (if tray needs cleaning, otherwise not needed).

Remove your air intake system (stock or aftermarket), and start disconnecting vacuum lines. They are hard to screw up, but if it helps, label the hoses.

Next come the electrical connections - TPS, MAP sensor, Idle Air Control, IAT sensor, coil packs - and then pull the coils. Tip - The nut that holds the coil to the manifold fits nicely in the boot of the coil so you don't lose 'em.



Next, remove the throttle body. Just disconnect the throttle cable, cruise cable, then it's three screws and it's off.



The heater hose that crosses over the manifold is actually easy to deal with. Just pop the ends off and set aside.



Now comes the biggest PITA on the whole deal - The fuel system. I've heard that on some trucks, you can get away with not removing the injectors and rails. I was not so lucky. I disconnected the injector wiring at each hole, then removed the mounting bolts. Since I don't have the special tool required to remove the fuel line from the rail, I popped the rails off, and moved it around as I needed when I removed/installed the manifold. This is also a good time to check your injectors, and replace any o-rings as needed (4 for me). Use a little Vaseline on all o-rings before you reinstall the injectors (same on the coils, too).

With the fuel rails out of the way, and various hoses and lines moved as needed, unbolt the manifold. Use the reverse of the tightening sequence (Haynes/Chilton manuals have it). Remove the manifold. Enjoy getting the square peg (manifold) through the round hole (Fuel rails/hoses etc.) twice. The more you can open the hole up, the easier it will be.



Install was the reverse of the removal, changing cracked hoses as you go.





When it's all together, fire her up, check for vacuum leaks.
 

·
Moderator
Joined
·
17,623 Posts
The heater hose that crosses over the manifold is actually easy to deal with, just make sure that when you last ran your truck, you keep the heat off - less coolant in the hose when you pop it off. .
It makes no difference if you turn the heater on or not. Coolant is running through the heater core anytime the motor is running, no matter what position your HVAC controls are in.
 

·
¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Joined
·
4,364 Posts
This will need pictures to be accepted.
 

·
Condoms prevent minivans
Joined
·
538 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
I'll post pics as soon as either A) D-D sorts out the pic-posting feature or B) I retrieve my Photobucket password lol... But I do have some pics
 

·
Moderator
Joined
·
9,489 Posts
For right this second you'll have to put them on Photobucket or Imageshack and just hotlink them. The attachment issue is being worked on and should be fixed any day now. I'm at the mercy of Phil who is at the mercy of their tech department in getting the bugs ironed out.

I will have examples and a Sticky up shortly (basically once the attachment thing is fixed) showing you the layout we are looking for, but you want to put the "Parts List" and "Tools Required" at the top of the article.

Thanks for getting the ball rolling! :mullet:
 

·
Condoms prevent minivans
Joined
·
538 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
That a little better? That's all the pics I can salvage right now, old hard drive crashed
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
22 Posts
I'm just curious, what was the reason for this swap? is it an upgrade, replacement or what? just curious, very nice write up by the way :clapper:
 

·
Condoms prevent minivans
Joined
·
538 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Upgrade. The 2000-2002 manifold is a bit of a slug. The 2002 H/O (which is what is featured here) is a big step up. The 2003-2007 one is also good; best is the 2008-2011 one.
 

·
Condoms prevent minivans
Joined
·
538 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Sigh... You have to start somewhere... But this is just supposed to be a how-do, not why-do.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
43 Posts
not trying to be negative at all, just wanting to see if it would make any noticable difference. I like the 4.7 because I like smaller displacement, higher tech engines that make their power up top(not the greatest for a truck maybe... but Im a honda guy) but I do wish this thing had a little more aftermarket support. you been to a track with those mods?
 

·
Condoms prevent minivans
Joined
·
538 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
I've tried to run it at the track with a bunch of Dakota R/T guys, but we were rained out. She goes in for a complete engine rebuild Friday, so no track for about 3 years - Don't want to void the warranty!
 

·
Moderator
Joined
·
9,489 Posts
THis is just waiting on the OP to update the Tools Required list and then it will be moved to the Engine section..
 

·
Condoms prevent minivans
Joined
·
538 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
Done and done
 

·
Condoms prevent minivans
Joined
·
538 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
The manifold? Depends where you find it... The 2002 H/O I found was $250 + tax (Canada) and had to be shipped from the west coast.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
38 Posts
Ok just to clearafiy when you listed years for intakes you want HO not stock. In other words 02 HO 03-07 HO or 08-11 HO not just a newer intake correct?
 

·
Condoms prevent minivans
Joined
·
538 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
H/O manifold was a one-year-only piece in 2002. All manifolds were the same in 2003+ and again in 2008+
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,850 Posts
I'm just curious, what was the reason for this swap? is it an upgrade, replacement or what? just curious, very nice write up by the way :clapper:
The swap to the free flowing HO manifold is well worth it, if you are doing the typical gain a few horsepower Intake/exhaust stuff.
 

·
Condoms prevent minivans
Joined
·
538 Posts
Discussion Starter #20
The manifold was the most important hard part in my first round of mods. 4.7s with 4wd typically put out 170hp at the wheels, I gained 40hp with the swap, CAI, muffler and SCT.
 
1 - 20 of 25 Posts
Top