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This is an article on how to remove the water pump on a 4.7 Dakota/Durango. Year range 2000-2004.
Problems are squeaking/grinding noise from front
Cooling issues, overheating, not cooling properly
Leaking from gasket or saturated crank pulley
Tools needed:
1/4 drive racket, 2 extensions, I used a 6 inch and 4 inch, and 10mm socket
1/3 drive ratchet, size 15mm socket
13 quarts of coolant, 50/50 mix
hose clamps or flat head screw driver for hose clamps
1 gallon of washer fluid
hex socket. Forget the size. Will get that added.
Teflon tape
*If you have the clutch fan, (I do not) you will need an adjustable wrench, 1-1/2 to 2 inch adjustable, and a screw driver to keep the pump from spinning or the Ford clutch fan removal tool. Either way works.
*Do not plan to save the fluid, might as well change it out while its out of the motor
*Make sure the motor is cooled down, it will cause burns and worse the radiator cap will blow off is there is pressure in the system
Step 1
Locate the 2 bolts that hold the upper cowl/over flow tank/ washer fluid reservoir to the radiator upper cross member. (I do not have pictures but I will get them). These bolts require the 10mm 1/4 drive ratchet and extensions. The bolts can be seen under the washer fluid sensor plug on the passenger side and under the upper radiator hose on the drivers side.
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(Passanger side, the metal retainer, thats where the bolt is, this side is easier to find)
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(Drivers side, right under the upper hose)
Step 2. Once the bolts are removed, unhook the plugs on the passenger side that go to the washer fluid sensor and the washer fluid pump. Unhook the small hose for the washer fluid on the passenger side connected to the washer fluid pump, and take the hose clamp tools (pliers in my case) and take off the coolant over flow hose.
Step 3.
Once all hoses and sensors are removed, pull up on the upper cowl. It will take a little wrestling to get it out of there, but it comes right out.
Step 4.
Take off the radiator cap, and take your 15mm socket and 1/2 drive racket and pull up on the tensioner to take the serpentine belt off.
Step 5.
Remove the idler pulley, this takes the same 15mm socket to do so. Doing this will allow you to access one of the bolts that hold the water pump on.
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(Picture of idler pulley for reference, mine was bad, so it go replaced)
Step 6.
Be environmentally friendly, and place a drain bucket under the lower radiator hose on the ground, and take the flat head screw driver or hose clamps and remove the lower radiator hose.
Step 7.
Once the fluid has drained, take the 8 bolts off the water pump using the 15mm socket and 1/2 drive ratchet. Take them off and label them, as they are different lengths and different styles.
![]()
(picture showing the bolts, last 2 bolts are on the bottom, hidden by pump pulley in the picture.)
Step 8.
Once all bolts are off, pry off the water pump, pull it straight out, as to not damage the coolant vallies with the impeller.
![]()
(picture of bolt holes, and water pump removed.)
Step 9.
Insert your gasket into the new water pump, then place the new water pump on the truck.
![]()
(new pump, vs old pump (bottom) gasket installed on new pump)
Step 10.
Take the bolts you took off the old water pump, and put them back on in the right order or right spots they came off in, and then tighten them down in a star pattern like you would when torquing a wheel.
![]()
(new water pump installed)
Then reverse the process, take the hex socket, remove the burp hole, fill with coolant, burp the system, add teflon tape to the burp hole bolt, reinsert and tighten the burp bolt, and your done.
![]()
Correct routing shown and finished product.
Finished product
Problems are squeaking/grinding noise from front
Cooling issues, overheating, not cooling properly
Leaking from gasket or saturated crank pulley
Tools needed:
1/4 drive racket, 2 extensions, I used a 6 inch and 4 inch, and 10mm socket
1/3 drive ratchet, size 15mm socket
13 quarts of coolant, 50/50 mix
hose clamps or flat head screw driver for hose clamps
1 gallon of washer fluid
hex socket. Forget the size. Will get that added.
Teflon tape
*If you have the clutch fan, (I do not) you will need an adjustable wrench, 1-1/2 to 2 inch adjustable, and a screw driver to keep the pump from spinning or the Ford clutch fan removal tool. Either way works.
*Do not plan to save the fluid, might as well change it out while its out of the motor
*Make sure the motor is cooled down, it will cause burns and worse the radiator cap will blow off is there is pressure in the system
Step 1
Locate the 2 bolts that hold the upper cowl/over flow tank/ washer fluid reservoir to the radiator upper cross member. (I do not have pictures but I will get them). These bolts require the 10mm 1/4 drive ratchet and extensions. The bolts can be seen under the washer fluid sensor plug on the passenger side and under the upper radiator hose on the drivers side.
(Passanger side, the metal retainer, thats where the bolt is, this side is easier to find)
(Drivers side, right under the upper hose)
Step 2. Once the bolts are removed, unhook the plugs on the passenger side that go to the washer fluid sensor and the washer fluid pump. Unhook the small hose for the washer fluid on the passenger side connected to the washer fluid pump, and take the hose clamp tools (pliers in my case) and take off the coolant over flow hose.
Step 3.
Once all hoses and sensors are removed, pull up on the upper cowl. It will take a little wrestling to get it out of there, but it comes right out.
Step 4.
Take off the radiator cap, and take your 15mm socket and 1/2 drive racket and pull up on the tensioner to take the serpentine belt off.
Step 5.
Remove the idler pulley, this takes the same 15mm socket to do so. Doing this will allow you to access one of the bolts that hold the water pump on.
(Picture of idler pulley for reference, mine was bad, so it go replaced)
Step 6.
Be environmentally friendly, and place a drain bucket under the lower radiator hose on the ground, and take the flat head screw driver or hose clamps and remove the lower radiator hose.
Step 7.
Once the fluid has drained, take the 8 bolts off the water pump using the 15mm socket and 1/2 drive ratchet. Take them off and label them, as they are different lengths and different styles.
(picture showing the bolts, last 2 bolts are on the bottom, hidden by pump pulley in the picture.)
Step 8.
Once all bolts are off, pry off the water pump, pull it straight out, as to not damage the coolant vallies with the impeller.
(picture of bolt holes, and water pump removed.)
Step 9.
Insert your gasket into the new water pump, then place the new water pump on the truck.
(new pump, vs old pump (bottom) gasket installed on new pump)
Step 10.
Take the bolts you took off the old water pump, and put them back on in the right order or right spots they came off in, and then tighten them down in a star pattern like you would when torquing a wheel.
(new water pump installed)
Then reverse the process, take the hex socket, remove the burp hole, fill with coolant, burp the system, add teflon tape to the burp hole bolt, reinsert and tighten the burp bolt, and your done.
Correct routing shown and finished product.
Finished product
