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The factory system is 2 ohm. Most likely the Polks are 4 ohm - which means they are being driven by roughly 7 watts RMS per channel.

There is no crossover, it's just a cap across the tweeter.

If you're going to do it, do it right and buy a complete set of component speakers that comes with crossovers (Yes, Polk does make component speakers - I can't vouch since I don't use them). Don't try to piecemeal it together with what you have. You didn't mention a model number, but assuming what you have is a decent 2 way, move them to the rear and buy a new component set for the front doors.

Ideally you'd run new speaker wire since the stock wiring is barely adequate (would also keep you from having to do the actual amp bypass).

It would also be very beneficial to install a decent amp for them, rather than running them off the head unit.
 

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Looks like she had the same speakers put in the back as well, and I can't really hear anything out of the factory component tweeters, wondering if they disconnected them. What I'd really like is some mid-bass speakers in the back and some good components in the front, maybe mount a little 4 channel where the factory amp is or something. Sure wish there were more sub options than the one under the rear seat, but I just can't find the room in the cab.
 

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I just ordered my 70-8901 harnesses. For anyone still looking to do this, the harnesses were $4.50 each on Ebay. Can't complain about that.

I also ordered a JVC HU and four 5.25" Rockford Fosgate speakers from Crutchfield.

Will bypassing the Infinity amp kill the tweeters? I didn't order new ones because I'm not sure how they're wired.
 

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No the tweeters will still work..
Awesome, thanks Desert! I wired up the bypass plugs and also wired the HU plug to the Dodge/Plymouth plugs so I can install everything tomorrow.

The pic in the original post is missing for grinding the bypass plugs down in the middle. I guess I'll play that by ear during the install and grind it as needed.
 

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I installed my JVC stereo as well as four 5.25" Rockford Fosgate speakers. I noticed that one of the factory tweeters wasn't working, I checked it out and a wire had came loose. A little bit of solder and it was back to tweeting again. I also installed the amp bypass. I didn't listen to it too much (just a few minutes) before I did the amp bypass. It already sounded pretty good just with new speakers and stereo.

I know people love pics, so here ya go.







 

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For those of you looking for this connector, I just ordered the Metra 70-8901 through Amazon and expect delivery in 2 days. Today (July 2016), the price is $6.99 and free shipping via Amazon Prime, but also available at a lower price at third-party suppliers.
 

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It's been 7 months since my post above...my bypass is still going strong!

I did have one issue which I though was the bypass. My stereo wouldn't play music and just said "Chk Wiring". I heard a noise behind my seat (regular cab) so I pulled the trim. The new speakers I put in were a bit larger than factory, and the wire connector/terminal was hitting the metal body when I'd hit a bump. I simply rotated the speaker to where the terminals were in an open space, and re-screwed them in again. No probs since.
 

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If yall want we can make these for you $25 + shipping. We have a crap ton of thoes plugs and when we do it we changed all the wires to green, white, grey, purple, Red, Black so when you go to wire up a 4 channel amp you dont have to pin try to find out what is what. You can just shoot me a msg on here if you would like one.

PS this works on the 2001 durango as well.
I just put a whole system in my 01 Durango, the HU is way more powerful than the stock infinity. I want to make one of the harnesses but am a little confused. The only thing I need to change is the pins on the plug? Otherwise the wires go together by color?
 

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Question:

I have an aftermarket head unit, replaced the 2 front main speakers. the factory tweeters are still hooked up. Rear speakers are removed and wires taped off/isolated.

Can I safely bypass the amp, or will the 4 ohm lower speaker and 2 ohm tweeter represent way too low of an ohm value to the head unit? The FSM shows them in parallel with no crossover, so if the factory woofer and tweeter are both 2 ohms, that would be a 1 ohm load. So are the factory ones 4 ohms instead, or is the tweeter something like 16 ohms? I'd hate to just unhook it, but I suppose it's an option.

It's an extended cab that i'm building into a race truck, trying to reduce to the bare essentials and would like to mount the MSD where the factory amp is.
 

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Most head units will put out to two and four-ohm speakers. Just at different wattages. I added Rockford Fosgates all the way around and kept my stock tweeters as well, It's been almost a year and I haven't had any issues.

While you're hooking up your wires to the new harness for the head unit, I would just leave the rears off of the harness as well, just to prevent a short in the future.

Next, get some small wire caps/crimps to put on the wires if you're going to hook them up. They wont come off like tape will in warm weather. You can buy a pack at any automotive store for like $2.
 

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Thanks for the information. I figured I'd be okay but wasn't sure. It's a pioneer head unit, i forget the model. Few years old as I best recall.

Harnesses came from amazon, about to solder them up. Hopefully tomorrow I'll be able to get into the kick panel and start pulling the amplifier out. Goal is to (somehow) fit this little kiddo in the amplifier's place. Housing dimensions are 7" x 4", and 2 inches tall. I know it's taller than the factory amp, I just don't know by how much. Worst case, I'll hit the junkyard and dremel up one cover out of two.

 

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So apparently the same guy in charge of several other complicated bolts was also in charge of the infinity amplifier. It's held in by 3 13/32 bolts, and the top one is behind the blower motor. What a genius he was!!!!

Alas, I did get it out. one click of the ratchet was all the range of motion that I had. Connector A went in no problem, but connector B needs the teller of the 2 short teeth cut down to match the shortest one. You have to take the pins out of that side to get a dremel's cutting blade in the connector.











 

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So apparently the same guy in charge of several other complicated bolts was also in charge of the infinity amplifier. It's held in by 3 13/32 bolts, and the top one is behind the blower motor. What a genius he was!!!!

Alas, I did get it out. one click of the ratchet was all the range of motion that I had. Connector A went in no problem, but connector B needs the teller of the 2 short teeth cut down to match the shortest one. You have to take the pins out of that side to get a dremel's cutting blade in the connector.
The blower is pretty simple to take out, just 3 screws. On the harness, I'm pretty sure I used a knife to cut those pieces. A nice set of wire cutters may have been enough as well. Either way, looks like you got it done. Awesome location for that ignition by the way!
 

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I'm trying to bypass stock amp in a 2004 dodge Durango and was told I need a bypass amplifier switch I can't find any please help
 
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