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HOW-TO: Adapt 12-914 255LPH Holley fuel pump to work in stock tank.

32571 Views 30 Replies 9 Participants Last post by  JFreddy
Since they disconinued the direct replacement 255LPH fuel pump for our trucks (Holley P/N 12-922), I've written this how to that will show how to adapt a Holly P/N 12-914 255LPH fuel pump to work in a GEN III Dakota. Hope it helps!

- First thing to do is remove the fuel pump from the truck. Sorry, but I didn't get any pictures of this. Easiest way to get to the pump is to remove the bed off the truck rather than dropping the tank. Underneath the bed, remove (8) bolts holding the bed to the frame. Near the rear of the bed, unplug (2) wiring harnesses leading to the tail lights, one on each rear frame end. Also undo the harness at license plate light. Now, open the fuel door and remove (4) phillips screws holding the filler hose to the bed. It's best to have at least three people to help you lift the bed off the truck. One on each wheel well, and one at the rear to stabalize the bed. Lift the bed up and over the wheels and set aside.

As you can see you have very easy access to the top of the tank and the fuel pump.

- Now you must remove the fuel line from the regulator. This is a quick disconnect hose. To remove it, push the outer connector towards the regulator. While doing this, squeeze the (2) tabs from the inner connector together. Still squeezing, pull the outer connector away from the regulator. It should pop right off. NOTE!!: Be careful when removing this connector. There is a tiny o-ring that may fall out of the outer connector. This o-ring is not available over the counter (That I could find) and so an entire new hose and connector needs to be bought if it's lost! (Ask me how I know ;) ) Now, unplug the fuel pump harness. Next, to remove the pump itself, remove the plastic lock ring by turning it counter clockwise. You may need to break it loose by using a large flat head screwdriver and a rubber mallet. Using the tabs along the outer edge of the ring to tap it counter clockwise. Once the ring is removed, just pull the pump out of the tank. Be careful not to get anything into the tank. Make sure you cover the opening of the tank so no debris falls inside.

Here is the pump removed from the tank.

- Once the pump has dried out a bit, the first thing to do is remove the fuel level float from the pump. First release a small black clip by gently squeezing the sides together,and pulling it out.

- Next, using a small flat head screwdriver, gently pry up on the level between the two attaching points. Pull the level straight out and set aside.

- To get to the pump, you must seperate the two halves of the housing. But before you try to seperate them, make sure to remove the hose from the bottom of the regulator that leads to the pump. If not, the hose will act like a spring, and will try to keep pulling the two parts back together. To remove the hose, use a tiny screwdriver or pick to pry open the hose clamp. Once the clamp is removed, carefully pull off the hose. Also make sure to unplug the wiring harness from the top of the housing.

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Can we make this a sticky somewhere? May not be in high demand right now, but I believe it may later. Besides, damn good info.:mullet:
Anyone ever use that TRE Performance 255lph? They seem to be readily available for our trucks and they have a warranty!!!
Walbro makes them. It's stamped right on the pump.
I just got my warranty replacement 914 pump(I returned a 922, bad out of the box) and sure enough Walbro stamped right on'er. when I told Holley the 914 could be easily adapted, they shipped the 914 right out! Kudos to Holley Customer service!!:bow: And of course to Boomin5 for the informative thread!!!
Anyone ever use that TRE Performance 255lph? They seem to be readily available for our trucks and they have a warranty!!!
Is that the pump you had to warranty or did you go a different route?
Is that the pump you had to warranty or did you go a different route?

I returned a 12-922 Holley and wasn't sure if it would be covered, especially where it was no longer produced. Holley agreed to replace it with a 12-914.
They were real good people to deal with. The TRE was going to be my second choice.
Can the "restrictive metal inlet screen" be removed on the older walbro style 255s? Is this what you recommend installing an inline filter for? I was under the impression the factory regulator was the most restrictive part of a 255 intank set up, and that the return adapter plate (from KRC?) remedies this.

I just purchased a lightly used one that I installed for a member a while ago, and now his basket is going in my tank. Should I remove this before I install it? Do I have to seperate the halfs to remove it. (its been a few years since I've had one of these baskets apart.)
The reason I recommend an inline filter is because you're removing thentire filter assembly out of the tank. The only "filter" that will remain is the screen. The metal cap is part of the bottom of the stock basket and gets removed. Unless your talking about something else. I don't remember seeing any sort of screen at all on the pump itself.

Not sure about the regulator ior how much restriction is casues, but I can't see it being anymore than another??
I was curious if the metal cap could be removed for increased flow on the original stock replacement 255lph walbros.
Anyone have picture to this? I am stuck at the tricky step, where you have to split the inner from outer sleeve....
Never mind i got it!!!
Does the pump have to be completely sealed when finished? I may have made my hole on the bottom basket for the pickup tube a little too big. Its my first time doing this and I dono if the pump is completely sealed from the fuel in the tank or not. I guess what I'm asking is inside the basket where the fuel pump sits, does it get surrounded/filled with fuel or is it suppose to be completely dry inside there and aeperate from the fuel in the tank?
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