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Doing the Hotchkis TVS with the Bilsteins to my '01 R/T CC soon. Is there anything not included with the TVS that I'm gonna need? Bushings? Anything? I hate suprises. Appreciate any tips & tricks for installation too. Thanks!
 

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pb blaster for all those rusted ass bolts. and cotter keys unless ya can save the old ones for the front end. synthetic grease also, be sure to grease everything up.
 

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If you have a pickle fork... that is definately MUCH easier than trying to bang the ball joint loose with a hammer.

Get at least 3 jack stands.. that lift the truck pretty high,... you'll want the extra room. We used one of the stands to hold up one end of the leaf spring,... so we wouldn't have to fight with it on the ground while putting the U-bolts over the axle and through the plate.

Air tools are almost a must,.... they make things MUCH easier.

You'll need 6 zip ties.... two to hold a rubber boot to the top of the coil on each side,... and another to hold the brake caliper and pad assembly up out of your way... usually tied to the frame or upper control arm.

You will also need a pipe clamp.... a pipe clamp is needed to bend the u-bolts together in order to put them through the plate when new leaf is being installed. the pipe clamp is great because then the u-bolt has something to rest against(the pipe) and stay put when clamping down(bending).

When installing the front coils... and bolt and cotter pin are both removed from upper ball joint... place hydrolic jack directly under and UP TO bottom of lower control arm... use pickle fork to losen ball joint at upper control arm to let hub, dics, and lower control arm down. Be sure to keep jack under control arm so coil doesn't fly loose. Slowly lower jack all the way down, and remove coil.... you might have to push down on the lower control arm a little to completely remove coil.

Paul
 

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Get NEW u-bolts. Don't reuse the old ones, even though Hotckis says you can reuse them,DON"T. When you remove the nuts, the threads on the u-bolts get damaged & wont retorque correctly. I used a spring compressor on the front coils & left the castle nut on the upper ball joint & hit the nut with a hammer to pop the ball joint loose. You risk tearing the boot on the ball joint with a pickle fork & since these ball joint's suck already you don't want any tears in the boot for water to get in.
 

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Check to see if the hardware provided fits through the rear sway bar holes. Mine was drilled improperly from the factory. Hotchkis is aware of the problem and does not know how many kits got shipped like this. Test fit it frist with their endlinks, if you dont you'll be drilling it on the truck like I did. Get a real sharp dril bit set if you do have to open it up. Making the hole the proper size will not void your warrenty. If you encounter this problem you might still want to call hotchkis and let them know.

Edit, you can apply weather strip adheasive on on the inside of the front coil spring isolators. This is what dodge recommends when servicing coil springs.
 
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